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We parked at the seasonal road closure on Hwy 123, about 1 mile short of Ohanapecosh campground, and walked on the road for that mile. There was almost no snow visible from the parking spot, but once we rounded a bend on the road, we found it mostly covered, and put on microspikes. The snow gradually built up until it was about 6 inches deep at Silver Falls, then rapidly increased to over a foot by the grove of the patriarchs. Elk Tracks everywhere!
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Completed what's been called The Eastern Loop Trail in Mt. Rainier National park. My GPS had me at a total of 38 miles, which took me 14 hours 37 minutes to complete. Having done the Northern Loop in a day only weeks prior, I would have to say that in my experience, The Eastern Loop offers a greater experience. The most amazing vistas, incredible meadows and ancient old growth forests.
I parked my car at The Grove of the Patriarchs parking lot and followed the Eastside Trail to the spur for the Cowlitz Divide Trail. I started hiking at 5 am and travelled everything below the divide before meeting the Wonderland Trail, in the dark. As I did my world was reduced to the radius of my headlamp and my other senses grew. I could hear owls hoot and screech and more than once, some large creatures ran through the underbrush (I told myself they were only friendly deer...) Sunrise gave views to spectacular meadows and grand views of Rainier, Adams and even Hood in the distance. Evidence of Bear and Elk all along the trail. Bugles from Elk greeted me like a chorus. Note: there is no water along the divide.
The trail descends to Indian Bar which was breathtaking and completely snow free. Elk could be seen roaming the high meadows above and their continued bugles echoed down ward.
Hiking on, ascending to the high alpine reaches above, the steepness was easy to forget as views open up the higher you go. No words, pictures or video can do it justice. The alpine meadows above greet the trail with permanent snowfields (easy to cross this time of year), happy streams and shimmering waterfalls. I slowed down here, the views were too good.
Panhandle Gap had two small snowfields with a thin crust (likely from an earlier snowfall) which made traction exceedingly easy. With trekking poles there is no issues crossing these snowfields. After the Gap, still on the Wonderland, the trail descends steeply to Summerland after passing an emerald colored tarn and some beautifully colored rock formations.
Summerland is stunning. Meadows, glaciers, granite and The Mountain collide here. I wanted to sit and take it in forever. The trail from Summerland down to the Sunrise Road is graded very easily and is wide and well maintained. Ran this portion of trail. There have been reports of a large beehive (flagging on the trail to warn hikers as well), but the recent freezing temperatures and a brave soul with a trekking pole or stick has done them in, so no worries there.
To continue the loop, once you reach the Sunrise Road, you must road-walk about .5 miles to the Owyhigh Lakes trailhead. This trail is also very well maintained and so well graded the ascent melts away. The lakes are low, but so very beautiful with fall colors and amber-yellow meadows surrounding them. Lots of Elk activity here this time of year. The trail continues over the pass just past the lakes and it’s obvious that this trail is much less used as its overgrown and not as well maintained. You descend fairly quickly down to the junction with the Eastside Trail which then follows the Ohanapecosh River down to the Grove of the Patriarchs. The trail undulates in the forest floor and crosses several bridges with beautiful waterfalls below.
This loop offers some of the most spectacular scenery and experiences Mt. Rainier National Park can provide. This is a must-do. For Everyone. Period.
Credit: I’m sure there are others that have discovered this loop, but I learned it here (great information about the loop):
http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?p=885756