178
4 photos
Birb
WTA Member
200
Beware of: snow, trail conditions

7 people found this report helpful

 

I don't have a lot of time but wanted to leave a quick conditions report just in case someone needs it...

5/30-6/1 did a 3 day/2 night backpacking trip at Hoh River Trail, staying at Olympus Ranger Station both nights with a side trip up to Hoh Lake on the second day.

We drove out 5/29 and stayed at Minnie Peterson Campground, one of 3 free with discover pass campgrounds around the entrance to Upper Hoh Road (we had first tried Hoh Oxbow, which was full, but Minnie Peterson was totally empty. There's also Hoh River Trust...) so we were able to get to the trailhead bright and early 5/30.

Hoh River trail was in good condition and easy hiking up until the water crossing right before Olympus Ranger Station. I'm not sure when this happened, but at some point in recent years, water has diverted and now there are two mid shin deep fords right before the camp. I followed rycoley's advice on their 5/19 report, and turned left on a faint boot path at the first crossing. Unfortunately, I lost the trail (it's not super easy to follow) and ended up crossing over too soon on a big log and having to do the second ford. On the way back, I was able to use this trail and completely avoid the fords. It's a little hard to navigate this section, especially as the water doesn't show on any of the maps... I think it's probably an easier bet to just bring sandals or water shoes and just do the ford. It's really not a scary ford, just cold. Apparently there is another ford before Lewis Meadow, but it's after the junction to Hoh Lake and I didn't need to cross it.

Olympus Ranger Station campground was a lovely enchanted meadow with lots of very gentle and habituated deer roaming around. The bear wire is in good condition, though I had a bit of trouble finding it because it was hidden behind someone's campsite. There are limited spaces on the wire, but you are also allowed to do hangs around here, and I saw lots of trees that would be appropriate (just make sure to do 12 ft above the ground and 10 ft from the tree). 2 toilets in the meadows, so it was a pretty luxurious trip. We saw a work party with some mules, which was cool. Set up camp and spent some time relaxing in the meadows and trying to dry out my shoes in the sun, with limited success. lol.

On the second day, I had originally planned to try to get back to the glacier, but after talking to some other hikers who had said the snow was pretty sketchy past Elk Lake, I decided to go for Hoh Lake instead. The trail from Hoh River to Hoh Lake is pretty rugged... It climbs pretty steeply up to the ridge and then mellows a bit, but it's around 3,700 ft gain according to Gaia. There are some blow downs, overgrown sections, and one spot where a blow down goes directly over a creek and it's very challenging to go under it without getting wet. Still, we managed. There is quite a bit of snow before the lake, with some sketchy snow bridges that we collapsed around the edges of trees. Unfortunately we had to turn around like 200 ft before the lake because there was really slippery piles of snow at a diagonal angle that I didn't think would be safe to navigate in trail runners without spikes (my friend forgot to bring her spikes). I think there will be snow for several more weeks, weather dependent. We passed by only 2 hikers on this section, and they said they had to camp on snow at the lake because none of the camp sites were melted out. There was a camp about a mile or so before the lake that was melted out (it's not on Gaia, but there was a sign saying last campsite where you can have a fire). This campsite had good water sources.

Overall a fun trip, though most people might want to give it a few weeks to deal with less snow! Especially if you're wanting to get out to the glacier.

Hoh River Trail to Blue Glacier — May. 26, 2023

Olympic Peninsula > Pacific Coast
4 photos
Beware of: trail conditions

4 people found this report helpful

 

Day 0 - Hoh River Visitor Center to Mt Tom Creek Campground

 
Day 0 of the backpacking trip included the drive from Seattle to the Hoh Rainforest and a short 2.9mi hike out to Mt Tom Creek.
 
As someone who identifies with being a night owl more than being an early bird, I prefer to do long drives to my destination the evening before a trip and camp nearby rather than wake up at an ungodly time in the morning the next day. We started off our long weekend by leaving work early and driving straight to the Hoh Rainforest.
 
Without traffic, the drive to the Hoh Rainforest from Seattle takes around 3-3.5hours. However, with the traffic we bumped into after work, it took us closer to 5 hours to reach our destination. The Hoh Rainforest reports that during peak times on the weekends, a line at the entrance may form, causing delays of a few hours, but when we arrived around 7pm on Friday night, there was no line and no one managing the booth.
The trailhead starts at the Visitor Center. If you have extra time before or after your trip, you can also enjoy a side quest on the Hall of Mosses trail.
 
Immediately, I entered a mystical wonderland of ancient trees and ferns, with moss draping the landscape like silk curtains.
 
The hike to Mt Tom Creek was entirely flat. At around the 1-1.5 mile mark, we encountered a branch-off that looked like a deprecated campground. This is not Mt Tom Creek; be sure to keep on hiking until you see an obvious trail sign.
 
As we were approaching Mt Tom Creek, a day hiker coming from the opposite direction had told us that he had encountered a heard of elk up ahead on the trail, but we unfortunately did not get to see the elk.
The Mt Tom Creek campground has its bear wire right by the group site. Most of the campsites were right along the Hoh River. The campsites were not demarked by site numbers, but were instead marked with fire pits. On a busy weekend, you may need to squeeze in with other groups.

Day 1 - Mt Tom Creek Campground to Lewis Meadow

On Day 1, we ventured from Mt Tom Creek campground to Lewis Meadow campground, which was another 7.6miles in. We had a slow start to our morning as we didn't have too much ground to cover and enjoyed a lazy stroll through the forest.
At roughly the 7.4 mile mark, after Happy Four but before Olympic Guard Station, we encountered 2 major creek crossings. Later in the season, we've heard that the waterflow of this creek can be as low as ankle deep, but at the time of writing, the creek was knee-deep for me (5'4" for reference).
 
There is an alternative trail that avoids BOTH creek crossings you can take if you feel the water levels are unsafe or if you want to keep your shoes dry. A downloadable version of this alternative route can be found on the Caltopo map I share in my blog.
 
Many taller, sturdier hikers than me had made it across the creek crossing with no issue, but I lost my footing on this creek crossing. Always be sure to use trekking poles and unclip your backpack straps when attempting risky, high-flow creek crossings. Luckily, my partner grabbed me in time, and we made it safely to shore with no casualties except for a few wet sleeping bags.
 
The second creek crossing is .25-.5miles after the first one, and we found the stream to be a little slower flowing than the first, but just as deep.
There was a 3rd creek crossing, shortly after the junction to Seven Lakes Basin. This one was no-where as deep as the first two creek crossings, but it would get your feet wet for sure. This was was roughly shin deep.
 
If you're sick of creek crossings by the time you get to Creek Crossing 3, there's a nice wide log that you can take to get across if you're an experienced hiker with sure footing.
We made it to camp pretty early in the day. Depending on your preferences, Lewis Meadow offers multiple campsites in the meadow, where deer often frequent; along the Hoh River, where we stayed; and on the gravel bar across a small section of the Hoh River for the adventurous.
 
Our early arrival at camp gave us plenty of time to dry out our gear before night fall.
 

Day 2 - Day Trip to Glacier Meadows

On Day 2, we left most of our backpacking equipment at camp and set off on a day trip to Glacier Meadows.
 
The first 1.5-2miles of the trail past Lewis Meadow were relatively flat, similar to what we had experienced the previous day. Once we hit our first switchback, the trail only ascended from there on out.
The first major landmark we hit was the Hoh River Bridge. It was a relatively mundane wooden bridge, but it crossed the Hoh River from hundreds of feet in the air. As you cross the bridge, you can see the strength and beauty of the Hoh River flowing down below you.
The next major landmark we hit was Elk Lake. The trail does not bring you straight to the lake, but you can follow a small primitive trail from the emergency shelter down to the lake. From Elk Lake, I was overwhelmed with a sense of smallness as I viewed the surrounding forest and snow-peaked mountains looming around me. Unfortunately, the area around the lake was very boggy and did not make for a good spot to sit and relax. We did a couple of stretches around Elk Lake, then returned to the emergency shelter for a snack break.
There is a 4th creek crossing not too long after we left Elk Lake. This one is along loose gravel. Be sure to follow cairns along the creek as they will guide you to the best location to rock-hop across.
 
The trail then took us back into the forest. As we continued to gain elevation, we started to see some of the best views of Mount Olympus and the Olympic Mountain Range poking out from behind the trees. This is where you'll find the best views of Mount Olympus, so be sure to soak it in.
 
Shortly after the first glimpses of the mountains, the trail had a couple of sections that are not recommended for beginner hikers. These featured loose gravel on narrow sections, not quite wide enough for both your feet to stand side-by-side, and a steep drop-off downhill.
If you've made it through 16 miles of hiking, 4000ft of elevation gain, 4 creek crossings, and several narrow landslide areas, you've finally made it to your final challenge -- the iconic rope ladder. This rope ladder is at least 100ft tall and situated at roughly a 50 degree angle. Light gloves are recommended to help prevent rope burn. A neck gaiter or buff is also recommended as loose gravel slides can kick dust up into your face. We went took our time to descend the ladder one at a time, and boy was my heart racing the whole time!
 
At the bottom of the ladder, we encountered the first bit of snow, which disappeared as we climbed back into the forest. The next trek through the forest was a short one before we made it to Glacier Meadows. The entire campground was covered with quickly melting snow at the time of writing. The snow near Glacier Meadow was crunchy, with a few spots where you might poke through. In another week or two, I would expect it to be fully melted out.
We did not make it to the Blue Glacier overlook as the snow levels made the creek crossing inopportune, but we did venture out into the backcountry to find a clearing with an epic view of the Olympic mountain range.
 
We saw a couple of excited ski mountaineers making their return to Glacier Meadow after a successful journey up to Mount Olympus -- one for the bucket list!
 
We ventured back to Lewis Meadow for our final night of the trip.
 

Day 3 - Lewis Meadow to Hoh River Visitor Center

We had a relaxing final day in camp, being one of the last ones to leave. The return trip to the visitor center was relatively uneventful compared to the previous days. We decided to explore the primitive trail rather than getting our feet wet again at the first two creek crossings.

Closing Remarks

This was such an incredible route to kickoff my first backpacking trip of the summer season. I had been eyeing this route on my paper copy of the NatGeo map for over a year now, and it ended up being much more adventurous than I could have imagined. The hike all the way to Glacier Meadow is not for the faint of heart: 17 miles of distance to cover, 4000ft of elevation gain, 4 major creek crossings, several narrow landslide areas, and the scariest rope ladder that I have ever climbed down. This is one of a few backpacking trips where I can firmly say that the journey was just as memorable as the final viewpoint. Highly recommend!
Beware of: trail conditions
  • Wildflowers blooming

7 people found this report helpful

 

Notes on trail wash-out and water-crossings: About 1-2 mile before OGS, you will come to a water-crossing made very difficult by recent snow melt. But, you don't actually need to cross here! The trail will cross back over this same stream in about three-quarters of a mile. Instead, look to the left to follow a boot path made by other hikers. You will have to navigate some downed trees, but it is do-able even for less experienced folks. (It helps to have a more compact pack and fewer things strapped on the outside.) 

If continuing passed OGS to Lewis Meadows, Elk Lake, and the Glacier: there will be another water crossing about half a mile after OGS. If you look to your right, about 25-50 yards (?) downstream, there are two downed trees crossing the stream. You can walk on the lower tree and use the higher tree to help balance, give stability.

We stayed at the group camp at OGS on Friday and Saturday night. Bear wire was in good condition. Day-hiked towards Hoh Lake on Saturday. A few downed trees immediately after turning off the Hoh River Trail but conditions were good overall. Nice views from the ridge before going back down into the bowl approach Hoh Lake. Turned around about a mile before Hoh Lake due to snow on trail. Snow was getting thin and melting fast enough in the heat to punch through and risk a twisted ankle, and it would be slow-going to hike off trail around the snow fields. Snow was also a bit slippery and we didn't all have micro-spikes. Certainly do-able with sufficient time and experience. Likely no snow concerns in ~2 weeks time. 

4 photos
ZhuckYu
Outstanding Trip Reporter
200

10 people found this report helpful

 

What a perfect day for this place! I was a bit skeptical about how this place could be different from any other PNW forest, but it so much is. Nowhere else will you find such thick and abundant mosses. Totally worth the drive.

Arrived at the parking lot at 11am. It was about 60% full. NP entrance booth was closed, but there was a ranger at the visitor center helping people buy passes (and ensuring they are displayed). Restrooms were open and neat.

Our hike consisted of Hall of Mosses loop [approx. 30 min], Spruce Nature loop [approx. 45 min], and about 1.2mi into Hoh River trail before turning around. All trails were in good shape, with some minor mud spots. Lots of mosses, lichens, gigantic trees, and decaying foliage. 

Hoh River Trail to Blue Glacier — Sep. 20, 2022

Olympic Peninsula > Pacific Coast
3 photos
Sportsfan35
WTA Member
Beware of: trail conditions
  • Fall foliage

9 people found this report helpful

 

Did this as a short day hike just short of the Mt Tom Creek campsite. A mostly quiet hike despite the large number of folks trying the trail from the Hoh Visitor Center. A popular stopping/turn around place seemed to be the footbridge and waterfall. Unfortunately, there is a HUGE tree across the trail that forces hikers to clamber over it in whatever way you can. See pic included. That tree is almost 5 feet high over the trail and perhaps 3 feet thick. I watched (and offered assistance) as several older folks tried and succeeded in surmounting this obstacle, but there was major concern on their part about falling. Other folks simply turned around at this point. Once you get past this tree, the trail climbs upwards with the help of rocky steps and then begins a more undulating path toward and away from the river. I lollygag when I hike because I am in no hurry, so I can't tell you how far in the footbridge over the rushing stream is, but when you hit this point, look up to your left once on the other side and you will see a pretty waterfall high up. See pic. I heard from 2 hikers that there is an unmaintained trail on the right side that takes you up the waterfall but they only went as far as the second cascade. Lots of folks spread out and have lunch here as it is a very pretty spot. The views up and down the valley when the trail approaches the river are beautiful and I found a few places where evidence of the coming fall was visible. Even with the crowds, the eventual spacing of hikers as everyone finds their own rhythm meant that this was still a very enjoyable hike. The tread is full of rocks and roots, so you need to look down occasionally to ensure you don't trip as I frequently do. But the beauty of the area definitely warrants a sojurn along this trail even if only for a short time.