We did the 3-day loop from Bald Eagle trailhead to the North Fork campground. We car-camped the first night at the campground in order to get an early start. I’ll focus on points that weren’t obvious enough to us beforehand.
As noted by a previous poster, the transition from abandoned road to trail at 2.5 miles is gradual. The road doesn’t seem to exist beyond the “turnoff” to the trail, so you won’t notice the turn or transition.
As of 8/2/04 there was a small stream a hundred yards or so before Long John Camp. There was also a mostly-stagnant stream at the camp which might be an acceptable water source – I’m not sure. The bug level seemed tolerable, but we decided to continue another mile to Spring Camp. Unfortunately we somehow failed to see this camp. Previous reports as well as the 100 Hikes book don’t say anything about its being hard to find, so we must have spaced out. On the other hand, a ranger we met on the trail wasn’t aware of any campsites between Long John Camp and Blue Lake. So if you want Spring Camp, keep your eyes open.
We proceeded to Little (lower) Blue Lake, 13 miles from the trailhead. It took us a total of 8 hours to get here from the trailhead (5.5 hours to Long John Camp and 2.5 hours beyond) at a moderately brisk backpacking pace but with several food stops. Contrary to what we’d read, this was a delightful place to camp. There are actually 3 lower Blue Lakes, one right after the next, the third being the least small, with a good campsite in the trees just to the left of the trail. In hindsight we were glad we’d missed Spring Camp – but only because we’d started early enough to reach the lakes at a decent hour.
The next day we moved camp up to the main Blue Lake, a half mile further up the trail and then another half mile off the trail. After relaxing for a while we took a dayhike up Johnson Mt. for spectacular views. Getting there requires hiking back to the main trail, a mile of climbing to about 6100’, and then a trail that climbs another 600’ to the peak. (All the junctions are signed.) The last section features a few dicey spots where the trail is eroded, but it’s doable. The dayhike took around 2.5 hours including lunch at the top. When we returned we took a quick swim in Blue Lake, surprisingly warm considering the 100 Hikes book says it’s usually frozen at this time of year.
There were bazillions of bugs (flies, bees, mosquitoes) at both lakes. They were surprisingly uninterested in us (was it the DEET? the garlic?) or our food, but all that whizzing and buzzing made it feel like a combination of O’Hare airport and a lake with way too many jet skis.
The third day we were awakened at 5am by the pitter-patter of raindrops on our tent fly. We were glad we’d hiked up Johnson the previous day since we saw very little this day. There is an established campsite shortly before you start the big descent off the ridge; the first water was shortly after we started the descent. Once the descent gets serious, hiking poles or at least a stick (of which there are many for the taking) is a big help. Watch out for the very slippery bridge (over land) near the bottom of the descent. We didn’t see a good log crossing over the Sauk, but the ford wasn’t bad in our tevas.
We encountered two other parties during the trip; both had come up the ridge, and both camped on the ridge because they couldn’t make the lake on the first day. If you come that way and don’t like the idea of a dry camp, make sure you start early.
You can see our photos at: http://share.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=EeAMmrNw0aMmTGQA.