I did an overnighter to take full advantage of Flapjack Lakes and Gladys Divide. Absolutely epic! I'll start from the beginning:

Road:

Gravel road to the national park entry is rough in parts. Lots of small potholes that can be hard to see in the full sun. However, any car can easily make it; just be careful! Parking lot was full at 11 am when I pulled in. Parked along the street in front of the campground.

Bugs:

They get their own section. They were terrible. Everywhere, every minute. Take a bath in bug spray, and you will be good to go!

To Spike Camp:
Trail in excellent condition to Spike Camp, where I spent the night. There are still water sources along this first 3.5ish mile stretch of the North Fork Trail. Didn't see too many people after passing the Staircase Loop junction/bridge. There is a bear wire at this camp and a few campsites. There was only one other person there when I arrived. I dumped my tent and most of my weight and bounced off towards Flapjack.

To Flapjack:

It was hot. I knew it would be, so I was prepared, but I went through liters and liters of water. I stopped counting! Thankfully, the trail parallels a river for awhile, so water was abundant. This trail can be steep and rocky/rooty at times. A few trees down, but nothing dramatic. The last 0.5 mile, once past the junction with White and Black Lakes Trail, is the worst. I met a ranger coming down who was checking permits. 

Flapjack Lakes:

Gorgeous, crystal blue water. Plenty of people there swimming and hanging out. After doing some exploring along the shore, I picked up the trail again and was off to Gladys Divide.

Gladys Divide:

A couple water sources along the trail in case you are running low. This was an absolutely delightful trail with such a surprise! You are traveling in deep forest when all of the sudden, you aren't. It spits you out into gorgeous alpine meadows, with abundant wildflowers and bubbling streams. The Sawtooth Range and Cruiserr loom overhead. It's indescribable! I continued with my mouth on the ground towards the divide. There are only two small snow patches left. Easy to cross without any additional gear. Views from the divide did not disappoint either!! And I was the only one there. I didn't continue on towards Gladys' summit, only because I didn't actually know you could. Now that I know, I am already planning a return trip. If you are camping at Flapjack, you need to do this trail.

The return trip to Spike Camp was uneventful. Ran into a couple backpacking parties that had underestimated the trail in the heat. Spike Camp had only two other groups there besides me. This morning, I returned via Staircase Rapids. Wasn't too crowded at 9 am, and the water was beautiful! 

We arrived around 11am on a Sunday and still managed to find parking in the lot! Yhe National Park road was great, but the drive in around Lake Cushman had some small potholes, nothing the Toyota Siena had trouble with.

There were 2 well maintained toilets at the entrance to the trail.

The trail was beautiful and well maintained. We hiked mostly in the shade, which was pleasant on one of the heat advisory days.

There were plenty of huckleberries and salmonberries on the trail which my 3yo appreciated. If you wanted to take a dip in the middle of the trail there is a nice spot pretty early on in the hike. The water is VERY cold, so be safe!

We loved the hike, definitely a kid/senior friendly hike. You get gorgeous river views, bridges, enormous old growth, huge boulders, and a river to take a dip in at the end. Beautiful views the whole way around and hardly any elevation.

Be careful on your way out, the Lake Cushman crowds parking on either side of the road were UNREAL! I had maybe 3 inches of clearance on either side driving out.

Staircase Rapids to North Fork Skok to Flapjack Lakes + Gladys Divide.

Staircase Rapids trail magnificent as usual. Many old firs and cedars to marvel at. North Fork Skok trail on old road bed all the way to Flapjack turnoff. Trail slumping somewhat on route to Madeleine creek where the bridge is tiled a few degrees making it more fun. Other than the ravine Madeleine falls through this slope is dry and somewhat exposed to the sun. Also very steep slopes. Don't step off the trail. Somewhat rougher and more miserable just before B+W junction. Trail to Flapjacks barely passes NPS standards in terms of grade, width, etc. Merciless.

Flapjack Lakes beautiful with Sawtooth Ridge right there. Plenty of camping. As usual, dogs are not allowed on the national park trails or in the back country. Despite that, you will probably see them here anyway. The owners do not care.

Trail to Gladys is not marked but it's east of the main junction and curves away from the lakes, heading north then east. Extra campsites are up this way. As of 6/22 the snow begins around 4500 feet and is constant beginning at 4600. The way is perfectly navigable, but snow bridges will be melting over the next week or so.

I drove in through Hoodsport.  On the way back I took Forest Service Road 24 to Highway 101.  FSR 24 is in terrible condition, stick to the paved roads through Hoodsport.  The pit toilets at the trailhead were unlocked and stocked with TP.

I arrived at 8 a.m and the temperature was 48 degrees.  There were a few cars in the lot, and the campground was full.  The trail is in beautiful condition.  I walk out about 3 miles, had a snack, and returned to my car.  The further I got along the trail, the more bugs were flitting about.

On the outward bound leg I only saw 4 other hikers.  On the way back I saw a lot of people including a dozen Spanish-speaking kids having a great time.  Their smiles and enthusiasm were infectious. 

I walked the southeast half of the loop twice, which I recommend to everyone.  It's much better than the north half of the loop.

I policed the only two pieces of trash from the trail that I spotted.

When I returned to the parking lot at 10:30, it had just filled up.

Rain was forecasted for today but we lucked out with only a few drizzles! Parking lot was maybe 1/4 full at 7:45 am when we arrived. The toilets were clean and stocked. The Staircase loop is in excellent condition! Such a beautiful trail and a great one for littles. We ventured about 1.5 miles up the North Skokomish River trail before turning around and finishing the Staircase loop. The trail is a bit muddy in places but not terrible. Only passed a handful of hikers today.