I hadn’t been to Steamboat Rock in 7 years, and what a nice choice for a late winter day to perhaps catch some waterfowl migrations and wildflowers that might be brave enough to pop up. We saw more than we expected, including buttercups, the green shoots of bitterroot, 4 bald eagles (2 immature), sage sparrows & towhees, ducks & geese, and a nice herd of 18 mule deer on top. They were looking very well fed, and eyed us at various stages of the hike.
There were 2 other cars parked in the lot when we got there around 11:30 am Saturday morning, but didn’t see a sole until the end of the hike. We took the only trail up, but instead of taking the loop south, we headed straight for the west side of Steamboat, then took a shortcut up a scree slope til we intersected the trail (see attached pic of our GPSed route). It was a little overcast, but by afternoon the sun shined on us. The sky was clear enough to see the Cascades to the west, and prominent Moses Mountain to the northeast. Our elevation gain/loss was 1475 feet in 4.9 miles of hiking.
I’m always amazed at these post-Pleistocene landscapes that the scablands of Eastern Washington have to offer. Standing on the south end (the bow of the steamboat) and looking afar, I could imagine mammoths and bison eating grass on the plateaus below. Of course this is a manmade lake now, but back then there were likely wetlands and maybe a stream through the coulee.
We noticed glacial striations on the tops of columnar basalts along the trail, leading us to think that the landscape is not just “Missoula Floods” scenario, but a combo of the two. The many granitic glacial erratics on top of Steamboat Rock also are evidence of a glacial advance. A little post-hike research shows that the Okanogan ice lobe passed just over Steamboat rock before ending its journey 15,000 years ago. But the landscapes reflecting the “floods” are the most prominent geomorphic feature here. On the hike up, there are also outstanding entablatures and columnar basalts that showcase the best of the 15 million year old volcanic flows, with 50 million year old granite underneath.
All in all, this hike is bound to get better and better as the spring emerges. Late March, April and May are probably the best times to go to see the wildflowers blooming prior to rattlesnake activity …!