So, I'll start with a little forward. I got up early and took the long drive over to Grand Coulee to do the dam tour... don't bother - skip straight to the hike, it's a waste of time and you spend more time on security procedures than looking at anything at the dam. If you really want a tour of a dam and hydro facility sign up for a Seattle City Light tour at Newhalem and Diablo - it's really cool and you get to see and get close to a lot.
Since I didn't want to drive all that way without making it a full day I planned on doing some hiking and chose Steamboat as it was right along the way, fairly short, looked pretty cool and was something I probably wouldn't drive that distance just to do. This part of my day was a great choice.
There is an improved trail - graveled to the base of the rock that leaves from the second (soon to be third) camping area. There's an information kiosk at the trailhead, so it's easy to spot. There's an unimproved trail - sandy that is across the street from the first camping area, marked with a small sign. Both end up at the same spot at the base of the rock. The first little bit of the climb is loose talus with a tiny bit (maybe 3- 5 feet - too tall to step up, but not really climbing) of rock slope that required (at least for me) hands and feet. It wasn't anything bad, but if you go when it's crowded be especially careful both about people in front of you possibly kicking rocks down and you kicking them down on others... as with any climb up is always easier so be prepared for it to look a bit more daunting when you come back. I was carrying my backpack with camera gear, so I turned around and came down backwards, ladder style, for that bit and was fine, but it would have been nice if I'd been able to take it off and have someone hand it down.
After that first rocky bit, it's still fairly steep, but dirt and nothing terrible. After the T, I can't say I really found any particular trail that looked like "the trail".. there were lots of social and game trails - I followed one of the more foot worn ones out to the edge of the mesa, then came back and looped around on what were probably deer trails. I had the whole top all to myself. It was exquisitely quiet up there and I saw a lot of animals - a little rabbit (I'd love to know if it's a baby Nuttal's or if it just might be a rare pygmy rabbit), a family of marmots, deer and of course tons of birds. If I hadn't got such a late start I'm sure I could have spent all day just wandering the mesa top. I did not see any snakes yet - though there was something small that I did not see that scampered/slithered off into the grass.. it could have been a snake or maybe a lizard. I did not find any ticks either (yeah!)