Overnight backpack with campsite at Ipsut Creek in CCW direction. While I have done this road in a sedan, I highly highly recommend a high clearance vehicle. It was a much better experience this time around. I echo other reports that mention seeing people with tire problems parked alongside the road (on the way down on Sunday at least).

First, I must warn that we clocked in almost 15 miles on trail to Ipsut Creek Campground on the first day when we expected to do closer to 11.5 miles. We did do the short spur trail to Spray Falls (0.1 miles one way) and didn’t get lost along the Carbon River riverbed much to account for the extra distance. I think the discrepancy in distance is due to a washout along the trail between Ipsut and Carbon River CGs. The Mount Rainier Wilderness Planner PDF puts the distance between the two CGs at about 3.5 miles if you stay along the south side of Carbon River, but the trail has since been rerouted so that you end up crossing Carbon River back and forth along a (really cool!!) suspension bridge and multiple log bridges. I think there were about 8 bridges in that section? We approached a sign on the north side of Carbon River (intersection of Northern Loop and Wonderland Trail) that said Ipsut camp was almost 6 miles away. We were definitely “stumbling into camp” that night because we have never backpacked almost 15 miles before (I am more of like an ~8-10 mile backpacking sorta person but I have backpacked the Enchantments before, so I don’t shy away from a more challenging day).

Second, thank you to the previous trip reports that warned the area around Spray Falls would be the last water source for the appx 5 mile stretch between the climb up to Spray Park until the descent into Cataract Valley. It was hot and clockwise-hiking people definitely asked us about the last water source we saw. We were fortunate to have budgeted enough water as a result.

Highlights of the day included Spray Falls, Spray Park (gorgeous!!),the suspension bridge, bear boxes at camp, so many waterfalls, and all-around good people on trail Saturday. I agree that the trail started to thin out after Spray Park. The friendliest people on trail were the backpackers (with a few exceptions in either direction 😅) for sure.  

Hope those two semi-lost backpacking guys (Willow?) who were on the Northern Loop trail made it to camp just fine.

Aside: some of the signs from Ipsut to Carbon Glacier do not account for the extra mileage back and forth along the river. We passed some European accent guy (French? German?) around 6:30pm who asked us how far the glacier was and he was not amused when we said like 6 miles (when the sign at camp said 4… but was probably an old sign referring to the old route along the south side of Carbon River). 

All in all, it was about 7.5 hours for about 15 miles with packs (not including lunch and snacks and water filtering breaks). Lovely, LONG walk but the time in camp was refreshing. If you’ve never used your telescoping trekking pole as a muscle roller, remember this tip for a day you may need to. 🙃 Overall, longer than I bargained for but not bad!

Second day was a 3-mile moderate climb and 1-mile more steep climb up Ipsut Pass (then 1.6 miles to Eunice/Tolmie TH and maybe a mile around the lake back to the Spray Falls TH). People made the climb out sound worse than it was, but I recognize I’m saying this after resting up at camp. I would NOT want to blast straight into the uphill section after a day like the last. Like most mountain passes, there isn’t a ton of water sources (mainly rocks and brush). It was definitely easier than Aasgard Pass and a little easier than Hidden Lake Lookout for example. MVP on that section was the clouds rolling in during the most exposed part of the climb and the sour gummies I saved for a morale boost. Wildflowers are past their prime but some remain.

Capped off the day with some lunch-type snacks and a dip in Mowich Lake. What a lovely way to end that climb out of the valley!! Overall it was about 7 miles from Ipsut CG to Mowich CG and took us about 3h. Keep in mind Ipsut CG is about 1/4 mile ofd trail. I think the loop would be almost 21 miles without the campground detour.

Highlights on the second day were the mushrooms galore, the moss kingdom during the moderate climb, the remarkable rock formations toward the top 1/3 of the pass, the breathtaking view down the valley, and the celebration feast at Mowich Lake!

Truly, Spray Park Loop is one of the most visually interesting hikes I’ve been on. Fields, forest, rocky talus, riverbeds (both rocky and sandy), waterfalls galore, bridges, moss kingdom, mountain passes, mushrooms, badass rock, and Mount Rainier ofc! Definitely doable as a long *ss dayhike if I didn’t have my backpacking pack but I think the overnight was perfect (mental fatigue from the riverbed area). Maybe I’d recommend 2 nights if you have the time to spare, prefer a more leisurely pace, or if you want to max the side quests.

My least favorite part during the entire loop was the last mile back to Mowich Lake along the trail that goes to Eunice/Tolmie. There were some very rude dayhikers on trail that (1) had a dog on trail — and when reminded about the national park dog policy, said it was a service dog 🙄 (these people make it hard for REAL SERVICE ANIMALS to be taken seriously) and (2) would not stop for uphill hikers in narrow areas (tbh I’m fine walking in parallel if the trail is wide enough and they started swearing at me on trail after I passed them?). Dogs are not allowed in these areas for the flora and fauna, which is the whole reason behind protecting and preserving the land. Trail etiquette makes these outdoor places welcoming to everyone. Please review etiquette if you plan to share trail space with others. Here’s a short, fun youtube video from a local WA area hiker, Miranda Goes Outside, on this topic. Sadly, it made me happy that it was the last stretch to eventually get outta there. Some dayhikers man…

This is one of those hikes that is super high reward for not much work. Most of the work is braving the Mowich Lake road for 17 miles. 

I hiked to the lake, then to the lookout and beyond slightly along the ridge to Tolmie Peak. Views are undeniably great! I wasn't alone for very much of it- my timing was somewhat in between two prime hiking slots, the day hikers ending on my way up and the sunset hikers beginning on my way down. I noticed someone with an off leash pet- just to reiterate here for anyone unaware, they aren't allowed on the trails in MRNP. 

Glad to have this one in the books, and on retainer as an excellent option for more seasonable hiking friends or out of town visitors who want an incredible PNW nature experience without a ton of work. 

RT 5.91m/1256ft 

Solo 37th birthday hike was an absolute success. I arrived at the TH at about 7:30 and found parking on the side of the road close. I have a Subaru forester and the road was rough, with washboards most of the way up. Some areas with potholes. I had no trouble but it was a slow go up the dirt road. 

Trail in great shape, slightly muddy in a couple areas but will dry out quickly with this weekends warm weather. I spent some time at the lake to rest before the last trek up to the lookout. It was up and up and up - definitely a good leg day! But oh my the views were worth it. I was up there by 9ish - with a few folks but not too crowded. Was also able to see St Helen’s and Baker up there as well. Butterflies and grasshoppers joined me as I sat and had a snack. Saw two deer at the beginning of my journey. 

this hike was a 10/10 today. On my way down the crowds were really rolling in. The hike down was much quicker - I made it back to the car by 10:30. This hike was moderately challenging with beautiful mountain and lake views. 

There is no pre-made trail description on the WTA site, so the boxes I checked are approximate. What I hiked was a 13.1 mile trip from Mowich Lake CG to Ipsut Pass (did NOT continue to Tolmie Peak), then down to Ipsut CG, then maybe a mile up the Carbon River... and back. I was scouting to see if the trail was suitable for a marathon length day hike (and having underestimated the Ipsut Pass section, I'll probably say no--that is a climb and a steep descent for a mile).

I left Seattle area about 5:50 and parked at the TH about 7:30, started hiking about 7:45. The road hasn't really changed in years--15 miles of washboard, some potholes, gravel, and much dust.  I love my Subaru Outback, but the road is clearly not for everybody. Stunned to see a few Teslas at the TH. I did end up passing at least 8 cars heading in/out that were very cautiously driving about 10-20 mph.

The trail certainly has its charms, starting with Mowich Lake, which is stunning and mirror smooth at 8 am, and a deep turquoise later in the day. Trail to Ipsut Pass (about 1.7 mi) is gradual and generally easy on the feet. Joggable. Views from the Pass are good, but the downhill beneath the cliffs was pretty unpleasant--narrow trail, rocky, and overgrown with vegetation making it tough to see where your feet are going. I enjoyed it more coming up a few hours later despite blazing sun. Beyond the base of the cliff (1 mi descent) the trail continues another 3 miles or so downward, mostly gradual, some crummy rocky stream-bed type sections, and a lot of soft mossy trail that is wonderful. Almost entirely in shade, which is great on a hot sunny day, and the constant sound/sight of Ipsut Creek. I couldn't find a satisfactory view of Ipsut Falls--I think I was over it, but it seemed kind of far down and hidden by trees. There was a short stub trail off the main path that seemed right, but it came to a bluff-top edge and tumbling down the hillside didn't seem worth it. Back to the main trail to the Carbon River, which was my favorite part of the day--broad, exposed, mostly dry and filled with rocks and logs. I LOVE that there is a well marked trail through it, which must be newly established every year after winter snows and spring floods. Maybe a mile up that way, then my turnaround point. Would have liked to go a few miles farther, but had to get home to make dinner. This part would be cool for a 26 mile hike, so maybe next scouting trip will include the road hike in from the Carbon River entrance and the Wonderland Trail toward Yellowstone Cliffs. The hike out was 2:15, ten minutes spent snacking and adjusting boots in the middle of the Carbon River, then 2:48 back to the car. 

For those doing the big loop ( I crossed paths twice with a group of 8-10 on their third day of the whole loop), I think it's probably better schlepping a heavy pack UP Ipsut Pass than going down it. Tiring, sure, but less likely to take a tumble.

Stats:  

Distance: 13.1 mi

Ascent: 3,013 (and -3,001 on the hike out)

Time: Moving, 4:59, stopped 14, total 5:13.

Road Condition: The last 15 miles to the Mowich Lake Campground is unpaved. There were a lot of bumps and small pot holes but only 10 or so bigger pot holes. After the fee station, the last 5 miles get significantly better. The road is wide enough to fit two vehicles so you do have some maneuvering ability to avoid the bigger pot holes. It took me about 45 minutes each way in my Subaru Crosstrek. As a courtesy reminder...it's perfectly okay to drive slow to be comfortable but check your rear view mirrors and pull over to let faster cars pass!

I got to the campground parking lot a little at 8 AM to do a hike up to Spray Falls. I got one of the last few actual spots. There were about 20 cars parked along the road already but there were still plenty of room for more. I started from the trailhead on the left side of Mowich Lake campground. At the first trail intersection from that entrance (right before getting to the lake), the sign for Eunice Lake will point you into a flooded section of the trail. If you ignore the sign and go a little bit further on the trail, there is a large log that allows you to get across the flooded trail portion. If you don't want to do that, then you can start on one of the trail entrances from the road in.

The trail is in good shape and pretty mellow all the way through the branch off from Ipsut Pass. From there it heads down some switchbacks before heading back up some other switchbacks to Eunice Lake. The closer you get to Eunice Lake, the muddy and wetter the trail gets. It's all passable but left my trail runners quite dirty. Once past Eunice Lake, more switchbacks lead out of the wet mud to drier/nicer trail all the way up to the lookout. You can go up the stairs to the outside of the lookout.

Even though clouds blocked all views of Rainier, it was still a fun hike!