15 people found this report helpful
Tolmie Peak is a beautiful hike with an excellent payoff in the 360 view at the top including a stunning view of Mt. Rainier. I highly recommend this hike!
There are two options for a starting point: 1. The WTA summary above describes a longer 7.5 mile hike that starts at the campground and includes more time along Mowich Lake. 2. A shorter 5.6 mile route that cuts off the first mile. To do the second option, which we did, look for signs on the left side of the road that point you towards the alternative trailhead (it isn't hard to find).
We arrived at the trailhead at 7:50AM on a beautiful Sunday morning. There were less than ten cars parked and we only saw a handful of people on the trail on our way up. We arrived at the peak at 9:10AM, a total of an hour and twenty minutes with minimal stops.
The view from the top is incredible. Definitely make sure to climb to the top of the lookout if it doesn't bother the ranger. It wasn't cold or windy today at the top so we spent 50 minutes eating brunch and enjoying the view.
We left the peak at 10:05AM and arrived back to the trailhead at 11:20AM. The trail was much more crowded on the way back down. On a nice weekend definitely try and start by 9AM to beat the crowds on at least the way up.
A few reminders: 1. Dogs aren't allowed on trails in National Parks. One group got a ticket from a ranger during our hike. 2. Hikers going uphill have the right of way, so on this busy trail make sure to step to the side as you're coming downhill. 3. The venn diagram of people who think it's a good idea to play music on a hike and people with bad taste in music is just one circle. Spend some time reflecting on your life if you fit in this circle.
A beautiful hike.
The road to the trailhead is pretty rough (gravel road). It can get dusty and affect visibility with the dust flying around. Turning on your car lights to help with visibility even in the day is recommended.
The trail is in a great shape, 1.7mi to Eunice Lake and a total of 2.8 mi to the Tolmie Lookout. The trail is mostly shaded, walks initially along with the Mowich Lake, and is at times rooty and rocky. The tree cover makes this a cool choice for a hot day trek. There are a few switchbacks to cross before you get to Eunice Lake. We were treated and greeted by a field of avalanche lilies just before arriving at the Lake. It was a gorgeous sight!
From here its a 1.0 mile to the lookout. Interestingly unlike other lookouts which feel closer than they are, this one felt further away but the actual climb was pretty straight forward. It is a bit steep in places but certainly do-able for all ages and abilities. There were many families with kids as little as 3 on this trail.
Take in the sights of Eunice lake, Rainier on the side and blooming beargrass. On a lucky day one might see St. Helen's. We were lucky for a few minutes when the clouds cleared up on Helen's. The clouds did not budge from Rainier though. Even so, the views were like none other. Huge rewards for a short and straightforward hike.
This hike was an out back hike of moderate difficulty, coming in at approximately 7 miles roundtrip per my GPS. To access the trail head at Mowich Lake, you must endure 17 miles on bumpy, gravel and dirt roads. Don’t sweat it though, I saw plenty of sedans at the trial head, but I would still recommend an SUV, or higher clearance vehicles.
Enjoy the undulating terrain of the first part of the hike as you gain and lose elevation as you make your way. Be sure to remain aware of your surroundings on the hillside at your side. While passing through, we heard a snapping noise, and looked behind us to see a large tree stump careening down the hillside. It was far enough behind us that we did not see where it ended up, but talk about a scary sound!
At approximately 2 miles in, you will approach a fork with signage for Ipsut Pass. Go ahead and take this short path up to the pass, As you approach you can hear the wind as its funneled through the pass. The trees sing with the wind, and drown out other sounds. As you look to your right, you are presented with stunning views down the mountain, and into a valley below. You can see portions of the Wonderland Trail, that steeply passes through this area as well. Soak it in for a bit, then return to the fork, and continue on toward Eunice lake.
Be sure to keep an eye out for wildlife. As we rounded one of the corners along the trail, from the corner of my eye, I saw what I thought was an approaching dog. I quickly realized it wasn't a dog, but a deer with a fawn in tow! I was able to snap a few blurry pics before they returned to the forest. We were pretty psyched since up to this point, wildlife has been something that has been missing during our recent hikes.
Once you reach Eunice lake, you can chose to hang out around its shores, take a dip, or as we did, decide to head up to the fire lookout. The lookout seems to be impossibly far away, but it’s less than a mile via the moderately steep switchbacks. I highly suggest you make the additional trek to the lookout. Your decision to continue will be rewarded as you make your way up the mountain. A new view presents itself seemingly every few feet. The majestic Mt. Rainier, the clear blue waters of of Eunice below, and as you approach one of the final switchback, the fascinating remnants of Mt. St Helens. At the peak you will find the former Fire lookout, and while you cannot enter the actual lookout, you can walk around the deck surrounding it. Break out your lunch, and take in the views. You've earned it.
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5 people found this report helpful
Busy busy busy! We arrived around 10am at the trailhead after spending almost 45min bumping up the long dirt road leading up to Mowich lake. Cars were backed up quite a ways down the road with tons of people swarming in the area. Would not recommend if you want peace and quiet, however.. I would DEFINITELY recommend this hike for the view at the end.
Wildflowers were in full bloom, especially the avalanche lillies and bear grass.
Wonderful, short little hike with big rewards.
5 people found this report helpful
Having been out to Mowich before I was mentally prepared for the rough road. I was pleasantly surprised - only took 30 minutes to get to the lot from the start of the dirt road. All cars can easily make it to Mowich - recommend staying on your side of the road and using your headlights as visibility is often limited by the dust kicked up by cars on the road! I arrived at 7:15a to find the lot 3/4 full! The trail can best be described as rocky and rooty with a small taste of flat terrain. Although the trail starts by losing elevation, the gain isn't too steep. Eunice Lake is a good stop for a quick break before the final push to the peak. The Lookout was peaceful until the crowds started to arrive! Journey back wasn't too bad considering the constant stopping to let others pass (please remember your trail etiquette). Beautiful day at Rainier enjoying the scenery and wildflowers. Try to remember not everyone likes to hear loud music along the trail. Also, Rainier is a National Park -- no dogs are allowed!