This was a trail run, not a hike. I planned the run using Google Earth, and as usual, what I discovered is that the path condition wasn't shown. So it's a journey of discovery! I started at the Carbonado Road trail head. To reach this location, head south on HWY 165, through Wilkeson, Carbonado, and across the one-lane bridge. I came to a Y in the road, and bore left (taking the right will take you to miles of non-paved and deep holes in the road. After 11 miles, you end up at Mowich lake), and I eventually drove past the Carbonado Ranger Station, open seven days a week, closing at 5 pm. There you can purchase all the passes that you need. Continuing on, I passed the 1st bridge over the Carbonado River. This appears to have been built for the logging industry, as it takes you to logging roads on the other side of the river. There are, however, camping places. I go past the bridge, and come to a small parking lot, with outhouses, and vehicles parked along the shoulder. The road has been closed for some time, due to washouts and erosion of the river bank. It's some 5 miles down this road, which turns into a path. Suddenly I crossed a bridge that left me wondering where is the Starbucks. Proceeding across the bridge, and through the campground, I took the trail by the readerboard. I soon had the option to go left or right. Going left would take me to Ipsuit campground, and to the right was the Wonderland Trail. This right turn will take you all the way to the top of the ridge, and a connecting trail with options to go to campgrounds, Mowich lake, or to the right to Eunice Lake and Tolmie Peak. Elevation gain is about 3,000 feet. The initial wonder and awe of coming out of deep forest into open scrub land and clearing, with views miles away (actually the pass with what you just came through) will give way to concern about the trail. At the base of rock cliffs, this area has been the subject of rock fall for many, many centuries, if not thousands of years. The repeated freezing and thawing loosens the rock which eventually falls. Combined with steep terrain, and bushes that at place obscure the trail, care must be taken in maneuvering this trail. Turning an ankle, tripping, sliding, are all hazards. Having said that, I was treated, as I struggled up the elevation, to an increasing array of wildflowers, and scenic views that left me breathless! Salmon berries are abundant. There was this black cliff face, and I was puzzled about that color. It is a moss that grows very close to the rock, which gives the cliff the appearance of having been painted black. Suddenly, I came upon the top of the ridge. The wind hit me square in the face, quickly cooling my sweat-drenched body. I gratefully began a downhill descent, even as I realized I am not yet at my goal, and any downhill going means I will have uphill returning. 100 yards and I came to an intersection. Forward to Mowich Lake and campgrounds, Ipsuit Pass, etc., or to the right, and back, to Eunice Lake and Tolmie Peak. Taking the Tolmie Peak trail is nice after the narrow, rock-debris strewn and narrow path I'd just navigated up some 2000 feet. At first, the trail goes down, then begins an uphill switchback ascent. Just when I began to wonder if someone moved the lake, I topped a rise, the trail leveled out, and I came upon a view of amazing wildflowers dotting a meadow. Further on down the trail, I came to Eunice Lake, a pristine, mountain lake bordered on one side by the ridge leading to Tolmie Peak, and the Tolmie Trail entrance to the area. How absolutely amazing is this place!!! At first, I came to shallow lagoon that was large enough and shallow enough to beg for bare feet. Sandy bottom, it was so inviting, except for the hordes of mosquitoes that descended. There was small field after small field of a variety of wildflowers are growing as if planted and cultivated...I half expected a unicorn to come trotting out of the trees, and little elves with pointy ears to show up! I didn't stay long because the sun was going to dip behind the mountain, making the trail through the old growth forest darker by the minute. I'd done that once before, navigating a trail in the dark, and I had no desire to do that with this one. Another reason I didn't stay long was the hordes of mosquitoes. I cannot stress enough, if you are going to this lake, probably any mountain lake, bring adequate protection. I had two of those wristbands, and they worked! I do not have a single bite on either of my wrists! I have them on my upper arms, back of my hand, behind my ears, back of my head where there's a hole in my running hat above the adjustment, legs...when I return, I will come with enough repellant to repel the most determined mosquito. Failing that, I'll pull out a bic lighter and turn the aerosol bug spray into a torch and incinerate the suckers. My intent was to carb up when I reached Eunice Lake, but that was not possible due to the mosquitoes, so I took my food with me on the trail. Stopping long enough to change shirts, or fish a water bottle out of my pack, drew a cloud of mosquitoes, so I had to keep moving. Got my shirt changed, drank some Iskiate (chia seeds, water, fructose - no lime juice because it ferments and shortens the life of the Iskiate) and ate some of my Pinole (corn based source of carbs and sugars). Packed everything back in my pack, and headed for home. The way down the rock fall was treacherously slow. Occasionally I could run, but not much. I finally came out of the clearing and back into the old growth forest. The trail was exhilarating and I made it down in 1/3 the time, making it home about 5 hours after my wife started worrying I was dead, or injured, or bear-eaten, or whatever. I highly recommend this trip. It's 19 miles out and back, but as I said, make sure you bring bug spray. Once you leave Carbonado Road and take off on the Wonderland trail, there are waterfalls where you can refill water bottles. For difficulty, I rate it moderately difficult. It is not for the faint of heart. This is NOT your walk in the park. If you just gotta see Eunice Lake, drive to Mowich Lake and come from that direction. It's about an 7.5 mile out and back from there. I even encountered coming back from Eunice Lake, as I was going up, two women helping another woman down the trail. The one being helped was blind. Go figure. I suppose if the blind woman can navigate that trail with her walker stick, she can certainly navigate a busy city sidewalk!

A perfect day for a hike, except for one tiny, annoying problem: BUGS. Seriously. We starting hearing about the bug problem about a mile in from someone coming down and then heard it from every other person we passed. And they weren't kidding. A bit before Eunice Lake, the mosquitoes (or whatever those brown bitey things are) started buzzing around us and kept getting thicker and thicker. By the time we got to the Lookout, there were swarms around our heads. Like everyone else, we snapped some pictures of the gorgeous view from the top but didn't linger for more than a few minutes. That was a bit of a letdown, but such is life. Even covered with DEET, I came out of it with 10+ bikes. Some people we saw were absolutely covered in welts. So, all of that said, I have no regrets. It was such a rewarding hike. The views from the top and at many points along the way were just jaw-dropping. It was a tough climb, and there is another climb toward the end of the return trip that sapped me, so be sure to bring plenty of water to get through that last push before getting back to the car. It seemed there were quite a few folks without adequate water, which surprised me. I drank The road is deeply potholed and rutted for much of the 11 miles...my low-riding sedan was not too happy, but those with higher-up cars seemed to be doing better. All in all, I highly, highly recommend this hike.

This was my team's Hike-a-Thon kickoff, but I'm not certain that my teammates will ever want to hike with me again after the ordeal that we went through today! The bugs were the worst I've ever experienced (and I've done a lot of hiking). We only lingered at the lookout long enough to snap a couple of photos. We didn't feel safe stopping for lunch until we were about a mile below Eunice. The mosquitos get bad just before the lake and get steadily worse as you climb. Quite a few people were turning back because they were being chewed to pieces. Wildflowers are in full bloom around the lake and are stunning if you dare to stop and observe them. We were surprised to see several people with dogs on this trail, including one that was off leash. Dog owners, please remember that the NPS has some pretty darn good reasons for not allowing pets on national park trails, and please remember that the rules DO apply to you!

The trail is in great shape, but as others are noting in their reports the mosquitoes are currently horrible! Be prepared with bug spray and extra layers of clothes. Rain gear, despite warm temperatures, proved particularly helpful. I was determined not to let the bugs pester me away from the peak. If you can manage the swarms, you'll likely have some time to yourself at the lookout to take in the breathtaking views. Most fellow hikers only stayed long enough to take a picture before making a hasty getaways. Wildflowers are blooming, both bear grass and avalanche lilies made showy displays. On the return hike, take a moment to visit Ipsut Pass. It's only a short distance along the Wonderland Trail from the junction with Eunice/Tolmie and the view is well worth it.

This is a beautiful time of year to do this hike! Wildflowers were in full bloom on the hillsides. The temperature was perfect. Last year when I did this hike the clouds rolled in and Mt. Rainier was barely visible. Today it was clear. This hike offers one of the most awesome views of the mountain! Some mosquitoes near the base, and flies near the lake, but not horrible. By the time I got done, the parking lot had cars at least a half mile down the road (around 2:00 pm). The 11-12 mile dirt road has deep, deep ruts so be careful.