Beautiful drive past the snowy Stuart Range and along the Yakima River to the trailhead. The Yakima is high and fast, predicting the conditions that we found at Umtanum Creek. We chose not to cross the rushing creek and high water at ~1 mi (usually an easy hop), which would have allowed us to go deeper into the canyon. Instead we scrambled a bit on talus, explored the homestead site, looked at beaver dams, then backtracked.
Inspired by a distant coyote heading straight up the ridge (sheep trails be damned), we followed an easier trail up-canyon near the trailhead, unmarked but obvious, ascending past a pretty waterfall. We left the trail to follow a track into open sage country to a high plateau, our lunch site. We were serenaded by a western meadowlark and had peeks of snowy foothills of the Stuart Range through the plateaus on the other side of the canyon. On this rare spring day of fine weather, the sun was very warm at lower elevations, the wind predictably chilly on the ridge.
The landscape is still spare: little is blooming yet, and the trees are just budding. In a couple of weeks, this area should be spectacular with bloom.
Birds: western meadowlarks, bank swallows, prairie falcons, redtail hawks, towhees, juncos, and a great blue heron in the most splendid breeding plumage I have seen.
The show continued after we left the parking lot in the afternoon. Along the east side of the Yakima R., we sighted about 30 molting female & juvenile bighorns in three groups within a couple of miles. No lambs yet. A pneumonia epidemic has crashed the local bighorn population, and in the canyon (west side of the Yakima) we saw no sheep, so sighting these sheep was a thrill. Soon afterwards, along Rt 82, we saw an osprey on the nest, and a minute later another osprey hovering and plummeting after prey.
Driving time from door to trailhead: 2 hours. In and above the canyon: about 7 miles in 4 hours, with lots of gawking.