The climb up Vesper Peak today demonstrated several of the potential challenges for late winter/early spring hiking. Swollen rivers, icy conditions, snow falling, low visibility and losing the trail. The mud starting out on the Sunrise trail reminded us of spring. The Stillaguamish was running faster and deeper than it was in January, the last time we came up. The only two people we saw today were up river trying to find an easier crossing, but they didn't. We stuck to the trail, and dropped several large rocks in to make the crossing a little less wet. Thanks to the people behind us who dropped in several more rocks, making the crossing much easier for us coming back. The valley is almost entirely snow-free and it's easy to follow the trail. If you go up in the next few weeks, don't make the mistake that we did, which was coming out of the last patch of trees and heading straight to the right up what we thought was the gully up to Headlee Pass. With the snow still present on the west side of the valley, that gully looked a lot like the normal trail, and we climbed all the way to the top before realizing that we had cut over too soon. If there is a way to take that route and then drop back down to trail, we couldn't figure it out, and so we went all the way down, and then back up the correct gully to Headlee Pass. The extra hour and a half, and extra effort due to getting off trail made a break at Headlee Pass a necessity as it started to snow heavily.
There were no footprints or tracks up to the pass, and none heading towards the lake, although it was pretty easy to pick out the trail. The way it was snowing today, our tracks are most likely gone, as they were already vanishing as we made our decent. We crossed the Vesper Creek outlet at what turned out to be the correct spot (pretty soon after dropping down from the trail to the lake/creek outlet) and headed straight up the east ridge towards the summit. No tracks at all so just straight up we went into fresh snow, which was falling very heavily at this point. There is no trail, but the ridge is pretty easy to follow. Unfortunately as we approached 6,000 feet there was zero visibility. We kept on towards the summit until it leveled out. Altimeter said 6,400 feet (probably off a bit from the weather, since Vesper is 6,210), and GPS location put us at, or very near the summit. We couldn't see more than 10 feet, so it was difficult to get bearings, and decided to pass on our normal "summit lunch" as we could already tell our tracks up were getting filled.
We enjoyed some good glissading down Vesper and made good time back to Headlee Pass. Note that in current conditions, the decent from Headlee is pretty treacherous. The snow was sticking to our spikes making them essentially worthless, and there is a sheet of ice and a lot of icy rock under the fresh snow. We were able to slide down a bit, but had a couple of falls that required self-arrests as well. Our ice-axes got plenty of use today. The maintained trail was a welcome sight after the ice and wet boulders.
We are a bit jealous of the recent Vesper ascents that looked like they had some great weather, but feel good about being able to make it after getting off trail, and in rough conditions. Be prepared for a lot of ice and breaking a trail yourself if you head up in the next several weeks.
We left the trailhead at 815 and got back at 530. Our mis-adventure up the wrong route to Headlee cost us about an hour and a half so we would have gotten back around 4 if we stayed on trail.