The seven of us arrived at the Sunrise Mine trailhead (2,400 ft.) at 8:20 AM, greeted by a variety of bugs and cloudy skies. In ten minutes we were hiking generally southwesterly on the well-traveled rocky and rooty trail 707, across the South Fork of the Stillaguamish River and up into the glacier carved valley below Headlee Pass. A tremendous avalanche has occurred here, filling most of the upper end of the valley with well-packed snow and forest debris. The trees still standing have had their branches stripped away on the side that faced the onslaught. Few, if any trees were left standing straight and unbroken. It is doubtful if this snowfield will completely melt out this year.
We tried to pass the debris field to the right on the northwest upper side, but soon found the going slow over increasingly steep talus and scree. So we fought our way across the avalanche debris field to the open sun cupped snowfield on the southeast side, where we continued toward the end of the valley. Low clouds obscured the surrounding ridges and peaks, hiding the visual clues needed to help keep track of exactly where we were, and where the trail left the snow field at the west end of the valley. Occasional patches of fog further extended the challenge. A cold breeze flowed directly at us from our direction of travel for 10 – 15 minutes or so, long enough for a few of us to don further weather protection. Then as quick as it started, the cold breeze warmed up 10 degrees or so giving cause to stop briefly to apply anti-fog to glasses. From near the end of the valley, a few members of the party chose to go up a snow slope upward toward a pass that turned out to be the wrong one. The slowly passing low clouds and fog did little to help our cause. Some of us continued a bit more toward the west wall of the valley. Two headed up the snow slope at the end. We kept within voice distance and compared notes. As we found the trail, the clouds parted long enough for the true Headlee Pass and its trail to become visible.
Upon completing the switch backs up the trail to Headlee Pass at 4,600 feet, we took a break. Morning Star Peak occasionally showed through the passing clouds. More bugs shortened our stay. We traversed around the south side of Sperry Peak on a well-traveled trail with stretches of talus and scree toward Vesper Creek. Back onto snow, we headed toward the small snow covered cirque between Sperry and Vesper Peaks called Lake Elan by at least one locally famous mountaineer. The sun broke through the clouds with dazzling brightness, and with it, out came our sunglasses.
We passed to the right around the east side of Lake Elan at 5,000 feet, leaving the snow for the rock slabs on the south facing slope and scrambled upward to gain the 5,400 feet ridge. From this point last year, a different group of us went east toward Sperry Peak. This year though, our destination called for us to go west. So we traversed on steep slab and snow with ice axes beneath a 5,800 feet knob, then headed southwest for the ridge between the knob and Vesper Peak. We dropped down to the ridge and crossed over onto Vesper’s east face. Angling upward, we continued southwest on mostly snow to a snow covered ridge at 6,040 feet about 0.1 mile south of the summit. We scrambled north along the talus ridge to reach the 6,214 feet summit of Vesper Peak at 2:00 PM. We shared the popular summit with a couple of other groups, enjoyed lunch, and signed in on the unofficial / informal summit register. When the clouds permitted we had views of Copper Lake to the northwest and Sperry Peak toward the east.
We left Vesper Peak at 2:45 PM. Having enjoyed the challenge of the more tortuous scenic route on the way up, we opted for the easier shortcut route on the way back. From the ridge at 6,040 feet we glissaded, plunge-stepped, and otherwise followed a snow-covered ridge southeasterly to a path leading to a crossing of Vesper Creek. At this point we were back on the trail we had come in on. Without any fog or low clouds on the way out, the snowfield surrounding most of the avalanche debris field in the valley was easily followed. At 6:00 PM, we were back at the trailhead. Four of us chose to bask in the glory of another successful alpine scramble during the drive back to civilization over dinner at the Mountain View Inn on the Mountain Loop Highway. This was an adventurous day in the mountains with great people, some bugs, and no rain. RocknSnowRick