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Michael Stanton
 
This trail begins in damp forest, then ascends a brushy hillside to reach a beautiful basin below Headlee Pass. The huckleberry density here was greater than I've ever encountered, and progress was slowed considerably. With blue-stained tongues we labored up to the pass, then across to the iceberged lake below Vesper and Sperry Peaks. We backtracked to the steep trail that ascends Vesper, first in scrub trees, then on marvellous granite slabs. Our goal was the fabled North Face route which starts on the glacier, climbs a gully, and finally provides a long, large, low-angled slab - the sweetest part! As we prepared to descend to the glacier, Steve turned his ankle darn it, and needed to rest it before descending(we descended carefully with no problems, and promised to come back together). I took rope and rack for a solo climb of the slab, traversing the north side at midheight on exposed heather and rock. Changing to rock shoes, I started up the vast granite slab, trailing a rope in case I needed to self belay a step. In reality, the slab probably took 20 minutes, but in my mind, I feel like I'm still on it. I wandered left and right, balancing a desire for low angles with the need for hand or footholds. The memory is powerful: Glacier and lake below, spire above, the sun shimmering on the great tilted plane of granite.

Vesper Peak — Aug. 27, 2001

North Cascades > Mountain Loop Highway
Chris Madden
 
We did Vesper peak via Headlee Pass. The way to the summit was snow free so we were able to scramble up the last rocks in trail shoes. The blueberries were out in force in the basin below Headlee Pass. Probably the best I have ever seen them. Plan on being delayed.
stan rose
 
A beautiful day for a hike/climb. Vesper is a terrific scramble; not too strenuous but a good workout for a day hike. Took us 3.5 hours up, under 3 hours down. Trail is very easy to follow to headlee pass, from there you can clearly see the summit route. The trail continues to a glacial basin, there you cross a stream and just head up. We took the rocks up, and glissaded down a great snowfield. From the summit we could identify most of the major peaks in W. Washington. only a couple other summiters today but i bet there'll be plenty on weekends. Make sure you hydrate well for this climb.
Alan Crabtree
 
A nice sunny day for hiking. The trail up to Headlee Pass and over to Vesper Creek is all snow free (there was still a tiny bit of snow in the chute below the pass, but it didn't obstruct the trail). There was lots of available water at various points on the trail. It is all snow from the creek up to the top of Vesper, which makes it easier to get up and down. The peak is snow free; a great place to enjoy the views and the sun. Take an ice axe. A few mosquitos were out, but not enough to bother you too much. I didn't do the traverse over to Sperry, but it would be pretty easy in the snow. It's a steep climb up to the pass, but the views fro Vesper are well worth it.
 
A cool and partly cloudy morning made for a pleasant start to this exposed (to sunshine) hike and climb. The trail is quite rooty initially in a relatively brief period of up and down through the woods, including several creek crossings. The largest creek has a double-log crossing, of which one log remains usable at this time. Although fairly narrow, it was easily passable. Shortly thereafter the trail heads up steeply, switchbacking across the open hillside, which would be very hot on a sunny day. This section of the trail is rocky and partially overgrown in places - not the best trail for a dayhiker. After the trail reaches the basin it heads up through the valley and continues to be quite rocky. At the head of the valley the snowfield is still quite large, and its time for snow boots and ice axes. The bootpath is easily visible heading steeply up to the right into a snow-filled gully. Ice axes were definitely required here, although there were some decent steps kicked in the snow. After Headlee Pass, the trail drops down a bit and wraps around to a small lake basin. The route up to Vesper Peak is stright in front all in snow, a pleasant steady climb. Sperry Peak is on the other side of the lake, on your right as you approach. The views from the top were minimal due to swirling clouds. We took a nice long lunch waiting for a break, but couldnt see much beyond our immediate area. The trip back down was fun and fast -- a series of great glissades all the way back down to the lake. Time: 4 hours up, 2.5 down Flora: Bleeding heart among other wildflowers Fauna: One marmot Great hike / climb for a day trip!