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Videos included. The ranger in the Ranger Cabin at Mowich Lake eyed us cautiously as we passed toward the unmaintained trail to Knapsack Pass. A short distance from the cabin, the trail rises ~250’ in less than 0.2 miles over this eroded, rooty, rocky trail. The next ~3/4 mile meanders through the basin carved by the watershed created by Mother Mountain and Fay Peak, until arriving at an open meadow that offers a clear view of Knapsack Pass with ~400’ elevation gain over the next ~0.3 miles (see picture). Toiling upward with only occasional pauses to admire some nearby mountain goats. Someone in our group watched a family of marmots, as well. Once arriving at Knapsack Pass, we were ready for a snack break and to enjoy the 360º view with Mowich Lake to the west and, to the east, the rocky basin that forms an apron above Mist Park and, to the southeast, a partial view of Mt Rainer as it’s blocked by East Fay Peak (video). Enticements to move onward 😅.
The unmarked route downslope from the Pass passes through loose rock slides, boulders and slabs tumbled off the sides of East Fay Peak. Stiff, grippy footwear and nibble balance were handy here (poles: useless on the boulders). When someone realized they left some equipment back at the rockslide, the rest of us had time for yoga stretches and botanizing. (Lesson learned: don’t put anything down amongst the rocks 😦)
Next stop was Mount Pleasant, accessed from the east, with views of Mist Park, Mount Fremont, the Burroughs, Spray Park and Mount Rainier (video). One in our group also scrambled to Hessong Rock (not recommended for non-scramblers). Then, to our lunch stop on the south rim of Mist Park with a view of the Spray Park trail as it disappears over the next ridge as it goes northward to intersect the Wonderland Trail. After lunch, on that very same trail we found carpets of fresh, jumbo-sized avalanche lilies before reaching the exposed, rocky sides of Lee Peak, the snowfields beyond and the whistling marmots below.
Back in Spray Park, we took another boot trail toward Observation Rock. Marmots, wildflowers and some bear scat along the way. Closer look at the scat indicated the animal had been eating grasses and leafy vegetation. Turned around at ~6300’ although boot prints and small rock cairns indicated there was a continuing route. The cloud/fog layer had gotten low and most of the prominences on the side of Mt Rainier were shadowy shapes.
There were no bold wildflower displays in Spray Park. But, still, plenty of wildflowers to admire and cause to look carefully at what's actually present (There are many "quiet" flowers easy overlooked in a big, loud display. I was always a fan of the underdog 🐕). The unique Delphinium flower at Lee Creek (GPS 46.924709, -121.858995) was a new one for me, with few other reported sightings in the Cascades mountain range (Pictures of Sierra Larkspur)
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Agree with AlpsDayTripper that this is a below-average wildflower year (except for beargrass in the lower part of the Park), but nevertheless beautiful. I suppose it's possible that lupine and magenta paintbrush are just not yet in full bloom. Spray Park itself was almost completely snow-free and shockingly green. We had a total of five steps in snow. Twentysomething daughter didn't even get her trailrunners wet. Maybe my memory is failing, but Mowich Lake also seemed quite warm. Mowich Lake Road is in the best condition in recent memory (if you don't mind the dust).