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Bench and Snow Lakes — Oct. 14, 2006

Mount Rainier Area > SE - Cayuse Pass/Stevens Canyon
the ole goat
 
Twenty-three years ago I made the trip up past Bench & Snow Lakes to climb Unicorn Peak. From 1978 to 1992 I made at least one trip a year down to the Paradise side of Rainer, sometimes up to 3-4 times a year. Then I just stopped visiting that side of Rainer. What a shock, I know it was late in the season, but I’ve been up to Rainer late in the season during the eighties, and I’ve never seen Rainer look so barren of snow or ice. There was no snow or ice present in the Fuher Finger, half of the Muir snow-field was gone, the Nisqually Glacier was covered with rock and more broken up then I’d ever seen it. At this rate, Rainer will lose most of its glaciers in the next 25 to 50 years. We left home at 5:30 AM and arrived at the trailhead around 9:00 AM, with a couple of stops for pictures on the drive up. Got some great pictures of Rainer reflected in the waters of Reflection Lake and took notice of fish rising in Lake Louise. Headed up the trail a little after 9:30 AM, and about a hundred yards up the trail the Little Lady stirred up the bees that have been reported to be nesting alongside the trail. The four of us, Me Lady, Princess,the Little Lady and myself,the Trailmaster was further up the trail, ran up the trail as fast as we could. “Run!” I shouted. “Get moving!” “I am moving!” Princess shouted back, and then we all started laughing. Nobody was stung, and we caught up with the Trailmaster who was wondering what all the commotion was about. The autumn colors were still in their prime, the Mountain Ash was done, but the Huckleberry bushes were crimson and at times almost purple while others were a golden yellow. With the deep green of the Sub-alpine Firs, mountain hemlocks and Alaskan Yellow Cedars, the gray rocks of Unicorn Peak and the glaciers of Rainer, it was a most memorable scene. The trail to the lakes starts out steep, then levels off on a meadow bench that was both crimson and bright yellow, interspersed with clumps of trees. The trail then climbs up a slight ridge, drops past Bench Lake before climb up over two more minor ridges before arriving at Snow Lake, nestled in the arms of Unicorn Peak. There are two campsites at Snow Lake, (reservations only) and both were unoccupied. We dropped down to the lake, just below the first campsite and the Trailmaster, Me Lady and I rigged up our fishing poles and tried fishing before settling down to eat lunch. Right off the bat, the Trailmaster had a strike and I had a few show interest using spinners. Then while Me Lady prepared lunch, the Trailmaster wandered on down to a cove where he said later the fish would nose or mouth his spinner but wouldn’t take it. After lunch, the Trailmaster, Me Lady and I went back to the cove where we tried using powerbait. The Trailmaster was right about the fish mouthing or nosing it around. One could see the fish, even see them nose it or mouth it and even feel a tug. But they wouldn’t hit it hard enough to hook them. We worked our way around the cove and fished for about an hour before heading back to our packs and Princess and the Little Lady who had been entertaining themselves by feeding the Camp Robbers, (Gray Jays) who would land on their laps and take food. Soon we all had the Camp Robbers landing in our hands and taking food from the palms of our hands. We then walked up the trail to the upper end of the lake, hoping to get a picture of Mt. Rainer and the lake but couldn’t find a good angle. But we did find another pond, maybe a 70 feet across by 150 feet long and 6 feet deep that had several good-sized trout cursing around. This time Princess, along with the Trailmaster wanted to try and they did. At first the fish showed interest, but they wised up fast and soon ignored our spinners. We then headed back down the trail to the trailhead, stopping to take pictures of the autumn colors and noticing the change in the weather that was coming. We ran past the bees once more and upon arriving at the van were told by the Trailmaster that he had missed them all together. I don’t think he believes us when we tell him about the bees. After climbing into the van, we drove up to the Paradise Visitor Center and looked at the exhibits, did some window shopping at the Gift Shop and made our way up to the observation deck. The first time and last time Me Lady had been there had been 18 years ago and in the middle of winter with 20 feet of snow. So at first she couldn’t recognize it. Both Princess and the Little Lady were impressed but the Trailmaster isn’t impressed by things like that and would rather be hiking or fishing. The ride home was uneventful and we stopped by Burger King in Monroe for dinner in what is becoming a family tradition.

Bench and Snow Lakes — Sep. 30, 2006

Mount Rainier Area > SE - Cayuse Pass/Stevens Canyon
 
Today was National Public Lands Day and the National Parks Conservation Association coordinated a group of 65 volunteers, along with REI's assistance, to do some trail work at Mt. Rainier National Park. Volunteers were brushing and draining trails in the Paradise Area, including the Snow Lake Trail. As one of the organizers, I visited our crew on the Snow Lake Trail. Besides all the wonderful brushing and drainage work our volunteers did, this trail is in fantastic shape. Many hikers were out this gorgeous day taking advantage of one of the last nice days for high-country travel. And the show stopper...the INCREDIBLE autumn color along this trail! Huckleberries, mountain ash and others were in various shades of orange, yellow, red, rust and everything in between. I have heard some say that autumn color isn't something the Northwest does, but this trail proves those wrong. I was totally amazed at the color. It's continuous along the whole length of the trail right now. It rivals most anything you would find along the Blue Ridge Parkway or Skyline Drive back East. Go now to experience this phenomenal display of color! BUT, also be aware that near the begninning of the trail, there is a yellow-jacket's nest in the ground on the right side of the trail about 50 yards (or less) in. They're fussy! The color won't last long at all, so hurry. The weather we've been experiencing lately can make this hike heavenly. So, make your way to the high country of Mt. Rainier and be rewarded by brilliant fall color along this trail, and several others.

Bench and Snow Lakes, Unicorn Peak — Jul. 8, 2006

Mount Rainier Area > SE - Cayuse Pass/Stevens Canyon
2 photos
Beave
Beware of: snow conditions
 
Both itching to get out and do some rope work, Randy and I decided on Unicorn Peak. Unicorn is the highest of the Tatoosh Peaks and it marks it's own significance with a unicorn-horn summit formation. We were greeted at the TH by swarming bugs and another group of two that were also headed for Unicorn. Both bugs and humans were friendly so no bites occured. We divied of the gear and were on our way. The trail to Bench and Snow Lakes does alot of up and down but it's 1.2 mile length and great scenery made it easy to get over the lack of efficiency. Just a touch of snow by aptly named Snow Lake. Shortly after the trail ends and the real ""up"" begins. Looking for access to the upper basin, we went up the gully on the SW side of the Snow Lake Basin. Our better put, the gully that houses Unicorn Creek. Shortly after entering this gully it was completely snow filled and frozen from both being in the shade and being cooled from a strong wind blowing down. We wore crampons which made the going much easier. All the snow in the gully is still pretty solid but I imagine in a couple weeks it may not be as easy. We could hear ALOT of water running underneath our feet. Now in the upper basin, we did a SE trending rising traverse until we were below both Unicorn Peak and Foss Peak (not labeled on maps). From here it was obvious which saddle we needed to gain, and we did so easily. We made a mistake at this saddle, SW of the summit. I saw a well-worn trail heading SE and looking as though it would wrap around the mountain, bypassing this step and granting us access to the upper mountain at some other point. After seeing some goats and doing a brief inspection, I decided this route was bogus and with that we returned to the saddle, crossed an easy moat, ditched the crampons and did a few feet of class 2 to gain Unicorns SW ridge. A mostly melted out climbers path lead us to the summit tower, with only one more brief traverse on snow. We knew of an easier route on the SE side of the mountain, but we had come for the 5.6 route on the S/SW side. I emptied my backpack and loaded both Randy and I's lunches in it and set out on lead. Although short, this was a stiff first lead of the year, especially in mountaineering boots which I flailed around like giant hooves. At a couple key spots I found myself with tremoring arms and legs wondering ""where can I go from here!?"". At one of the harder moves I was happy to find a fixed pin and be able to climb it essentially top-roped. I set up a bomber anchor on top and belayed Randy up. Awesome views up top of Little Tahoma, Rainer, Adams and all the little stuff in between. Randy and I both tried to enjoy our dry lunches, which was hard with our water being at the bottom of the summit. After quite some time on the summit the other party of two showed up and rested below while we rappeled down our route. We came to find that they were in search of the ""Class 3/4"" route and had only a rope; No pro, harnesses or helmets. We bid them good luck and were on our way. A fairly uneventful return trip. We still used crampons on the descent of both gullies and did a bit of glissading in between. Rounded out the day by driving home via 410 and stopping to see Cayuse and Chinook passes. 5 miles RT, 2500' gain.
Robert Michelson
 
Rainier in June 15th thru 18th 2005 -------------------------------------------------------------< P>Wednesday -- Nisqually Vista -------------- We arrived late and I opted for an easy afternoon stroll. Nisqually Vista via the Avalanche Lily trail provided a new view of Mt. Rainier. The Vista trail goes to the brink of the steep deep glacier canyon. It gives a dramatic view of the mountain, which was beautiful white against a deep blue, cirrus streaked sky, with the gray glacier snout deep below in the canyon. A couple of tiny snow patches were on the trail which did have many thousand white avalanche lilies all around it in the awakening meadows. Thursday --- Snow & Bench lakes ----------- We came early this year to be sure to see the lilies in bloom. This day was my lily jackpot, millions of avalanche lilies lining the trail and covering the meadows. The gray overcast provided excellent light for flower photography. At the end of the trail Unicorn Peak cut a powerful and stately shape above glass still Snow lake. The Snow lake trail is a thousand feet lower than Paradise and so the meadows had had 3 or 4 more snow free weeks to develop their early season flower show. Much more was blooming than up at Paradise yesterday, 22 species at least. I was the lone hiker this morning . I explored around the lakes and a little up on the snow field just below Unicorn. On the way back I met a mother with a 4 year old son enjoying some of the lake views and water. The trail goes up and down, up and down ending at the same elevation as it started. So you get more of a work out than a casual glance at the map would indicate. This is a beautiful , peaceful, uncrowded trail close to Paradise yet with only 1 % of the people. Friday -- Skyline Trail to Mazama Ridge & Van Trump Monument -------- This day was mostly cloudy after the overnight rain yet Rainier was visible in the sun during 98% of my hiking time. I started from Paradise Lodge up the Skyline trail north east towards Mazama ridge and the junction with the Lakes trail and then went North up to the Stevens / Van Trump monument at 6000 ft. where I had a solitary lunch. The first photo opportunity was at the Myrtle falls view point where the mountain posed for me above the falls. Again the early season flowers were superb, with this trail being loaded with lilies (glacier & avalanche), anemone, and several other species. Many more flowers than were out lower down by the lodge. There was patchy snow ascending the switchbacks on the north side of Mazama ridge and again up by the monument. Once up on the ridge I had a superb view of the Tatoosh range, snow capped with green forests and meadows below. From my lunch spot I watched a mountaineering class ascending a snow slope above me near Panorama point. The big mountain dominated the view, with some glacier streams and little waterfalls in the middle ground and snow, rock, and flowers at my feet. On the way back I detoured slightly to admire some more little falls, and mini rock gardens. Saturday - Comet Falls (Van Trump Park trail) ----------- This mostly sunny day was designated for waterfalls and Van Trump creek delivers, with 5 great visible falls (and several invisible in the canyon) on the way up to Comet, the best falls in the park, a 320 ft. plunge into rainbow pools below. This trail is very steep, steep, and very steep again before flattening some on the final approach to Comet falls. At the junction of the two forks of Van Trump creek I got a surprise. The big sturdy bridge is gone, washed away by the glacial outburst flood of 2 years ago. In it's place is a single log bridge with a wire handrail. Not very comforting for crossing a dozen feet above a raging stream. I took pictures of Comet from above and below and then found a good lunch spot just below it with some other hikers. This was my last lily photo day in the park and there were excellent specimens in the little clearings from 4600 ft. on up to Comet falls at 5000. I also found excellent Jeffrey Shooting Star's a little lower. Returning to the car and then the lodge to pick up Marjie, I was very pleased with these 4 days in Rainier's early summer floral splendor. Robert Michelson

Bench and Snow Lakes — Sep. 20, 2002

Mount Rainier Area > SE - Cayuse Pass/Stevens Canyon
Pine Cone Head
 
This is an easy hike to two small lakes in a basin. A good hike for small children or adults that are not quite up to some of the more severe hikes in the park. The trail starts in low brush and forest, but quickly opens up into meadows and old burn. The meadows are full of color as the berry bushes are turning to oranges and reds. There are two major ups-and-downs although the book claims there are three. The first lake is Bench lake and is stuffed into the brush. There is little shore space for lunching and relaxing. Go to Snow Lake! After a steep short hike, you will be rewarded with plenty of shore space and terrain to roam through and get some peace and quiet. Yes, there are prettier lakes at Mt Rainier, but these are easy to get to. Have fun!