Unicorn Peak, Bench and Snow Lakes — Saturday, Jul. 8, 2006

Mount Rainier Area > SE - Cayuse Pass/Stevens Canyon

Both itching to get out and do some rope work, Randy and I decided on Unicorn Peak. Unicorn is the highest of the Tatoosh Peaks and it marks it's own significance with a unicorn-horn summit formation. We were greeted at the TH by swarming bugs and another group of two that were also headed for Unicorn. Both bugs and humans were friendly so no bites occured. We divied of the gear and were on our way. The trail to Bench and Snow Lakes does alot of up and down but it's 1.2 mile length and great scenery made it easy to get over the lack of efficiency. Just a touch of snow by aptly named Snow Lake. Shortly after the trail ends and the real ""up"" begins. Looking for access to the upper basin, we went up the gully on the SW side of the Snow Lake Basin. Our better put, the gully that houses Unicorn Creek. Shortly after entering this gully it was completely snow filled and frozen from both being in the shade and being cooled from a strong wind blowing down. We wore crampons which made the going much easier. All the snow in the gully is still pretty solid but I imagine in a couple weeks it may not be as easy. We could hear ALOT of water running underneath our feet. Now in the upper basin, we did a SE trending rising traverse until we were below both Unicorn Peak and Foss Peak (not labeled on maps). From here it was obvious which saddle we needed to gain, and we did so easily. We made a mistake at this saddle, SW of the summit. I saw a well-worn trail heading SE and looking as though it would wrap around the mountain, bypassing this step and granting us access to the upper mountain at some other point. After seeing some goats and doing a brief inspection, I decided this route was bogus and with that we returned to the saddle, crossed an easy moat, ditched the crampons and did a few feet of class 2 to gain Unicorns SW ridge. A mostly melted out climbers path lead us to the summit tower, with only one more brief traverse on snow. We knew of an easier route on the SE side of the mountain, but we had come for the 5.6 route on the S/SW side. I emptied my backpack and loaded both Randy and I's lunches in it and set out on lead. Although short, this was a stiff first lead of the year, especially in mountaineering boots which I flailed around like giant hooves. At a couple key spots I found myself with tremoring arms and legs wondering ""where can I go from here!?"". At one of the harder moves I was happy to find a fixed pin and be able to climb it essentially top-roped. I set up a bomber anchor on top and belayed Randy up. Awesome views up top of Little Tahoma, Rainer, Adams and all the little stuff in between. Randy and I both tried to enjoy our dry lunches, which was hard with our water being at the bottom of the summit. After quite some time on the summit the other party of two showed up and rested below while we rappeled down our route. We came to find that they were in search of the ""Class 3/4"" route and had only a rope; No pro, harnesses or helmets. We bid them good luck and were on our way. A fairly uneventful return trip. We still used crampons on the descent of both gullies and did a bit of glissading in between. Rounded out the day by driving home via 410 and stopping to see Cayuse and Chinook passes. 5 miles RT, 2500' gain.