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Chose this hike as an alternative to hiking Norway Pass (ranger asked us to turn around after making our way through the open road closure gate). If you're asked to take NF-99 not that that road is closed as well. You'll want to take a route that goes over NF-26. We found a short cut using a side gravel road I believe it was NF-42 that got us over to NF-26. Passable by all vehicles.
This hike was a pretty steep incline right away and doesn't give up. Seems like there are some pretty beautiful views. We were in a cloud covering for most of the hike and when we arrived to the saddle. By the time we reached the bottom it was sunny and hot (of course!). I'd recommend a warm layer to protect against wind and brisk cloud dew for the second half of the trail.
We didn't make it all the way to the end. Took a pause at the ridge line/saddle, ate our snacks, and hoped for the mountains to peak out with no avail.
Still some snow at this point and a little more that we could see further up the trail. Not enough that you can't find the trail nor make it without extra gear.
If you have knee problems I recommend poles for the decline :)
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I did not see another car on FS26 on my way to the TH and did not see another person all day. FS26 has rough sections that are hard to see forcing a slow drive in spite of the road being paved 99% of the 12 miles. I started hiking at 12:45pm.
The first two miles are snow free. It is approximately 1,600 ft of elevation climb in the first two miles.
At two miles, there is snow covering the trail for the next .5 mile. Route finding skills or GPS tracker is required to get through this section. There was not a boot path to follow. Once on the ridge, the trail is visible again and snow is intermittent along the trail. The third mile is filled with views of Mt Rainier, Mt Adams, Mt St Helens, Mt Hood and Mt Jefferson in the distance.
Trilliums are just starting to bloom.
Due to time constraints, I only went 3 miles before I turned around. 6 miles in 2hrs and 30 mins.
The gate on FS26 is now open to Ryan Lake.
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This is why I love the Gifford Pinchot - SO beautiful and SO quiet! We got to the trailhead at 10am with no one else there and we didn't see anyone else the whole day (granted, a Friday so not on the weekend). The road has some potholes but not bad if you take it easy. The trail is in really great condition, looked like some branches/trees had been trimmed recently. We only hiked up about 3.2-ish miles because of time constraints but that was actually a great stopping point because we left the main trail there to go up to the high point and got PHENOMENAL 360-degree views of all four of our beloved volcanoes. We hit a snowfield around 3 miles and then there was intermittent snow so I had my microspikes on then but my husband was just in boots and was fine. It is a pretty steady climb up but at least in the woods for the most part (again, we turned around before what I think is more exposed). Oh and there were lots of trillium and yellow violets blooming.
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The road to the TH is in great shape. Only a couple of areas to watch for potholes over the 18 miles from US12.
Only one other car in a very large parking lot. I saw one group of two coming down in the first mile of my hike. I had the trail completely to myself for the rest of the day.
The non snow covered parts of the trail is in excellent shape. Intermittent snow until 4,650 ft where the snow was a solid 4ft and only became deeper with elevation. The trail is fully covered from this point. I used microspikes from 4,650 ft to 5,100 ft. I found snowshoes helpful after 5,100ft.
There were no views by the time I reached the ridge at 2pm. I turned around after a short walk along the ridge as the sky did not look like it was going to clear.
There is an incredibly beautiful waterfall along FS26 1.4 miles north of the TH.
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Summary: Parked at the Green River Horse Camp, hiked to Vanson Lake via Green River Trail, then camped at Deadman's Lake, followed by a return via Goat Mountain Trail. Trail is easy to follow the whole way, albeit muddy at times. Virtually no biting insects.
To Trailhead: Despite some initial confusion around whether Forest Road 26 was fully open, I can indeed confirm that the road is paved and passable all the way to the junction with FR2612, which itself is in excellent shape for a gravel road. Plenty of parking by the trailhead, though no privy as far as I could see.
To Vanson Lake: Thanks to some recent trail work, Green River trail was easy to follow and virtually brush-free as it meanders slowly down the river valley. Other than some muddy low points, the trail was uneventful and completely deserted all the way to the junction with the Vanson Lake trail. Shortly after beginning the climb to Vanson Lake I encountered a party of cyclists descending, and as I neared the lake itself I found another group of cyclists. The lake was shrouded entirely in mist, and I enjoyed a quiet lunch by its foggy banks.
To Deadman's Lake: Naturally, given how uncooperative the weather was, I decided to forego the climb to Vanson Peak itself. Instead I hiked towards Deadman's Lake, arriving just as another backpacker finished setting up their hammock camp. There's plenty of campsites along the shores, and I had no trouble setting up a secluded camp by the water, though a few parties arrived later and had to work a bit harder to find a place to pitch a tent. It rained intermittently, and I spent the evening ensconced in my tent, unable to enjoy the ongoing meteor shower.
To the Trailhead: After waiting for the morning rain to pass, I soon packed up and headed along goat mountain, the views of which are apparently quite pleasant. Other than some wildflowers on the trail and a brief peak at a low-lying meadow, the weather prevented me from seeing much more than the trail in front of me, and I made good time down the mountain and back to Green River Horse Camp.
Overall, a pleasant and lonely romp in the isolated NW corner of St Helens. Not a bad overnighter on a rainy weekend.