I completed a guided climb of the Easton Glacier route with International Mountain Guides (IMG) from July 12-14. Heat made the approach challenging, but we managed by controlling our pace, maintaining hydration, and reapplying sunscreen at every opportunity. We reached the first snowfield at about 6,000’, where we made camp close to the Easton Glacier. Temperatures that night stayed above freezing at that altitude.

We began our summit approach at approximately 4:30a.m. on July 13 and reached the summit at 11:30a.m. Visibility was far and clear with amazing views. As others have mentioned, the top layer of snow on and below the Roman Wall had softened considerably by early morning. Ascending the Roman Wall was challenging, but it was possible to kick good steps into the snow. Descending the Roman Wall was strenuous. The soft snow made it nearly impossible to get a solid hold with crampons or ice ax. We compensated with the plunge step, but it was more like plunge-slip-slide-fall over and over all the way down the Roman Wall and then again (although less exposed) on the rest of the Glacier below.

Once we made it below camp, it was an easy, quick, and beautiful hike out. I especially enjoyed the wildflowers and camera-shy marmots.

Others planning to rent a vehicle and drive to the trailhead should be aware that the road to the Schriebers Meadow trailhead is unpaved, rough, and long, with sharp gravel, deep potholes, and other obstacles. Go slow and make sure your tires are in good condition. My carrier is AT&T and there was no cell signal whatsoever once I left the paved road, which was expected, but added a level of hazard when I sustained an irreparable flat on the way down the mountain. Fortunately, I was able to maintain control of the vehicle and find a place to stop on the side of the road. The mechanic who happened to pass by in the next truck and graciously changed my shredded tire has my eternal gratitude.

Special thanks to my IMG guides for leading me through this challenging and rewarding experience.

When: July 8 & 9, 2024

Where: Kulshan, North Cascades, Wa, USA

Conditions: Warm & breezy

Forecast: high of 75 degrees at basecamp, 60 degrees at summit

Detailed snow and avalanche conditions:

Snowline begins at Heliotrope Ridge. The trail includes a few snow bridges, one having some fall consequence. Snow is still covering many camping spots at Hogsback which limits availability. There is running water on the northern-most part of camp.

Crevasses are not visible through the lower Coleman. The climb up from Hogsback is the steepest I've seen it be and has some bad runout. We found this section much more troublesome on the way down while the sun warmed the snow.

So much snow above 8,000ft! The moat is easily crossed. You're in avalanche terrain from there on. Colfax Serac is crumbling and had 1 small release during our summit push. The rocky ramp to the Roman Wall has some avalanche debris from above with more releases likely in the near future.

Gear used: Ice axe, mountaineering boots, glacier rope. Soft snow throughout was a challenge to travel on so don't skimp on the boots. Crampons aren't very effective, so a stiff boot helped with the steep terrain above camp and at the top of the Roman Wall.

Gear brought but not used: Pickets, crevasse rescue gear. We did not use pickets, instead opting for an ice axe & boot belay on the transition from the summit ridge to the top of the Roman Wall. We also saw guides short roping this portion. We appreciated the rope a lot. I'd read reports of climbers not using one recently, but was a comfort knowing the lack of integrity of the snow below our feet. A crevasse fall did seem unlikely but having the team ready to rescue a fallen climber was one less thing to worry about as we traveled.

Other factors: Bugs were bad! Mosquitos up to camp, bees at camp. The wild flowers were nice though.

Photos at http://www.thedirtbaguette.com/2024/07/baker-via-coleman-deming-july-8th-9th.html?m=1

My wife and I did a guided climb of the Mount Baker Easton Glacier route with International Mountain Guides. We hiked up to a great campsite at ~5400’ the first day and went to bed early. The next day we woke up at 2:30am to start the climb. Easing onto Easton Glacier was easy, we roped up and started the ascent. The route was straightforward, follow the boot path up. Only two small (for now) crevasses to hop over. It gets steeper and steeper up to the Sherman Crater, where the fumaroles were nice and active. The Roman Wall was OK enough going up and we were treated to a breathtaking 360 degree summit view. Unfortunately on the way down the surface of the snow softened and we post holed up to our waist pretty much the entire time down the Roman Wall. Beyond that it was just slip after slip after slip while doing our best to keep going. Very hot sun and strong sun exposure. We eventually made it down to camp, totally freaking beat but so stoked. Easy hike out the following day.

Took part in my first mountaineering experience, going up Mount Baker with Cascade Mountain Ascents. The trail was snow-free for the first two miles, then had snow all the way up. 

We camped at a sandy camp and had little wind and nice weather for the first night.

Our summit day was perfect, reaching the top in less than six hours with a bluebird day. By the time we got back to camp, clouds had covered the summit and we had intermittent rain for the next 15 hours. 

I did a solo climb/ski of Kulshan via the Squak glacier over the weekend.

I parked at the Sno-Park Saturday morning, which was far busier than I expected, and booted up the road a couple miles before I was able to put my skins on. A kind gentleman named Chris offered me a ride on his snowmobile, which saved me a huge amount of time and energy. Apparently there was a BBQ event going on, which explained the crowds of sledders.

I set up camp in the trees on a ridge east of the standard Easton route camps, a little away from the majority of the sledders. (I saw signs of mostly small wet loose and wet slab avalanches in the area and surrounding mountains). I had lunch and took a nap. Then I decided to go up to the Squak to get some laps in. Well, I called it quits after one lap - the snow was too much mashed potatoes for me.

I had a leisurely late afternoon/evening and enjoyed the sunset. I set my alarm for 2am, but I must've turned it off in my sleep because I didn't wake up til 430. Whoops!

Even though it never got below freezing overnight, radiative cooling made for a very crusty surface. I was glad to have brought ski crampons! I slowly made my way up the glacier. I crossed tracks with the sled tracks leading up the base of Sherman peak, then over towards the Roman wall.

I saw a set up skin tracks headed up! It looked like they came up from the Easton glacier. It was nice having tracks to follow. Part of the way up the Roman wall, I decided I didn't feel comfortable skinning up steep crusty snow anymore and ditched my skis. Well, I accidentally really ditched one of them...

Whelp. Nothing I can do to stop it. So I continued booting up. I punched through the crust quite easily now. I slogged the rest of the way up the wall to the false summit, where I found some packed dry snow and a good breeze. What a nice change from crust and mashed potatoes!

I was on the summit just in time for lunch, although it was too breezy for me to bother with that. I made a sad snow man (snow pile?), took a few pictures, then headed back down. I picked up one ski, then found the other thankfully just a few hundred feet below, tail sticking up from the snow.

I had lunch, then clicked in. A few hundred feet of crust, a few hundred feet of glorious corn, and too many thousand feet of nasty gross exhausting slop.

At camp, I melted snow and ate before breaking down camp. It was after 4p by the time I took off. I mostly reverse coursed out, minus hitching a ride. I put my skins on at the summer trailhead. I was surprised to see two groups of hikers in the vicinity so late in the day. The road was long and rather slightly miserable. By the time I got back to my car it was sunset.

What a weekend!

Pictures in Google photos link.

PS - there are open crevasses on the Easton and the upper Deming glaciers.