I completed a guided climb of the Easton Glacier route with International Mountain Guides (IMG) from July 12-14. Heat made the approach challenging, but we managed by controlling our pace, maintaining hydration, and reapplying sunscreen at every opportunity. We reached the first snowfield at about 6,000’, where we made camp close to the Easton Glacier. Temperatures that night stayed above freezing at that altitude.
We began our summit approach at approximately 4:30a.m. on July 13 and reached the summit at 11:30a.m. Visibility was far and clear with amazing views. As others have mentioned, the top layer of snow on and below the Roman Wall had softened considerably by early morning. Ascending the Roman Wall was challenging, but it was possible to kick good steps into the snow. Descending the Roman Wall was strenuous. The soft snow made it nearly impossible to get a solid hold with crampons or ice ax. We compensated with the plunge step, but it was more like plunge-slip-slide-fall over and over all the way down the Roman Wall and then again (although less exposed) on the rest of the Glacier below.
Once we made it below camp, it was an easy, quick, and beautiful hike out. I especially enjoyed the wildflowers and camera-shy marmots.
Others planning to rent a vehicle and drive to the trailhead should be aware that the road to the Schriebers Meadow trailhead is unpaved, rough, and long, with sharp gravel, deep potholes, and other obstacles. Go slow and make sure your tires are in good condition. My carrier is AT&T and there was no cell signal whatsoever once I left the paved road, which was expected, but added a level of hazard when I sustained an irreparable flat on the way down the mountain. Fortunately, I was able to maintain control of the vehicle and find a place to stop on the side of the road. The mechanic who happened to pass by in the next truck and graciously changed my shredded tire has my eternal gratitude.
Special thanks to my IMG guides for leading me through this challenging and rewarding experience.
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