Left Heliotrope Ridge Trail at 9:30 am on Friday in very wet conditions.  No other cars in the parking lot. Encountered snow in the gaps of the forest, and above tree line. Creek/river crossings in the trees not too difficult to cross. Rain turned to snow at about 5000'.  Got to what we called "high camp" - near Black Buttes - 5 hours later.  We took our time, but we also had slushy snow, and then fresh snow on crust to deal with. Pitched tents in 20 MPH winds and snow and hunkered down until 2 a.m. Saturday. Winds calmed as the night drew on. From camp towards the summit, we followed "the trail" on the map, but actually broke trail the whole way.  Post-holed in 6" - 18" of snow, occasionally broke through to our hips. We wore cramp-ons at this point, but snowshoes may have been a better option... we just find that snowshoes at a certain degree ascent are more difficult. DID NOT SUMMIT. We topped out at 9000' mainly due worries over time. Weather was typical big mountain weather in spring: clouds, white-outs, clear, sideways snow and sleet. Still, what a stunning mountain, so much variety.  Probably my favorite out of the 5 WA volcanoes, although I have not done Glacier Peak.

C2C attempt via Coleman route to just above 9,000ft in 10.5 hrs. Turned around due to (1) sustained 30mph gust and (2) postholing into thin layers of unconsolidated ice up to knee high, on the ridge just above the saddle between Baker and Colfax. 

Track: https://caltopo.com/m/FPS4

Road to the trailhead is clear of snow until the last 0.25mi, which was mostly bare but had a huge pile of snow that blocked vehicle access. Parking lot was still fully covered in snow. 

First 2mi was mostly melted out. Stream crossing at about 1.4mi in. Water was running high and fast at midnight when we crossed. Snow bridges were thin and I collapsed one. Trekking pole and gaiters (knee high) were a must. The first step took a leap of faith. Just keep probing with the pole. I found it easier to step in the stream than trying to hop on the small rocks. 

Snow was then consistently mushy. A good reminder to watch the weather forecast for the entire week leading up to the climb day to set better expectation of the snow condition. From Hogsback / low camp, the snow slope steepened but there were deep bucket steps kicked in and a couple of glissading chutes with good runout that were tempting us on our ascent. Strong wind and I had to pause for a few brief moments to maintain balance. From high camp, there rising traverse felt long and never ending, the most exhausting part of the climb IMO, mostly because the boot tracks were filled in with fresh snow and we took turns to pack down the snow while sinking into ankle deep in the soft snow. 

Roped up and broke out crampons and ice axes at 9,000ft on the saddle between Baker and Coleman. Some other groups roped up from the high camp. We felt comfortable walking unroped up to the saddle knowing the glacier was filled in with no open crevasses on route from last weekend. As soon as we geared up and gained the ridge, all of a sudden we started experiencing a sustained (at least) 30mph gust blowing rain, which kept throwing me out of balance every few steps. We would have pushed forward if we were not at the same time postholing to knee high into multiple thin layers of unconsolidated ice, which immediately broken into layers as soon as we stepped on them, and ice axe’s shaft went all the way in. The most interesting snow formation I’ve ever experienced. We discussed as a group to call it good, considering that both strong gust and postholey snow condition would make our summit attempt unsafe and unenjoyable. 

Uneventful hike out in great plunge step condition snow. We kept crampons until just above high camp. As we approached trailhead at around 9am, thunderstorm and lightning started rolling in and we started getting rain on. Good call to bail today. Drove out in rain and thunderstorm. 

11pm left cars

12am crossed steam at mile 1.4

1:30am Hogsback 

4:45am saddle 

5:15am left saddle after roping up

5:40am turned around 

9:30am trailhead

C2C attempt via Coleman glacier. Turned around at 9,890ft below the Roman wall.  6,900ft gain over 13.8mi in 15hrs. Route in great shape, mostly a roped walk-up in crampons condition snow and no open crevasses on route. Our turnaround decision was based on our group's overall risk tolerance of steep snow. In my opinion, the route is in prime shape for summiting.

Approach to the approach

1.2mi (600ft elevation gain) of road walk took about half an hour. Road was mostly dry and the snow patches had boot tracks. We started early at 1:30am to (1) get ahead of the crowd (expected a busy day on the first day / the best forecasted weather day of the Memorial holiday weekend and the 2nd day of trailhead reopen), (2) leave plenty of buffer time since it was the season opening climb for all of us due to quarantine.

Ascent

A small creek crossing at 1.4mi, where a snow bridge collapsed. Just hop on the small rocks and use poles to probe and maintain balance. Fast current in the early AM. First ~2mi had plenty of melted sections with some creek running across and some downed trees to hop over. We all carried 4L+ of water, not expecting running water to refill from. The snow covered sections had were packed down with boot tracks. Snow was firm but not icy, perfect traction for boots. Familiarize yourself with the route as there were quite many snow/trail transitions and the snow covered sections cut the switchbacks by a lot. A rock island led to the Hogsback camp (only saw 1 tent). Passing the camp we arrived at the Coleman glacier at around ~6,000ft, and roped up at a relatively flat spot, as a precaution for the potentially hidden crevasses, and took out ice axes, crampons and helmets. Fresh snow from last 2 days had covered some old boot tracks in the low angled slope. Broke trail again in ankle-deep powder. Before the slope steepened, we found another set of recently made boot tracks. An avalanche debris to the left of us in some distance. Also noticed that every step we kicked moved a ~2in layer of snow. Remember to look around for potential avalanche activities and debris and pay attention to the ever changing snow/weather conditions as you decide where to go and to take breaks. At the 7,000ft high camp we only saw 2 tents and room for a few more. A slog on a gentle slope until the ridge at 9,000ft. For a short section, snow was crunchy and broken in layers like a staircase and made walking more tiring. Icier and steeper snow after where the boot tracks were kicked sideways in or just front point in.

Turned around just below 10k ft below the Roman wall. 

Throughout the day, we didn't see any other group rope up below the high camp (7,000ft). Most skiers didn't bother until at least 9,000ft. We could have waited a little longer, but didn't want to wait until absolutely necessary and then there might not be a good spot, better be safe than sorry.

Descent 

Plenty of fresh snow to plunge step down. Dozens of groups were heading up at this time, mostly skiers skinning up in parallel to us. Expecting a highway of boot tracks after this holiday weekend. Leaving high camp, we walked into a complete whiteout. A good reminder to track your climb and have historical tracks loaded to your phone / printed out to navigate. From there to the low camp, it was a nightmare of close to 600ft of knee-deep postholing in the mashed potato snow with no visibility in the sun-baked whiteout lol... We unroped at the low camp but still kept crampons and ice axes to be prepared for the possibly firm snow below and that turned out to be a good decision. Uneventful hike-out in the drizzling rain. 

Track

https://caltopo.com/m/KRQ4

Driving

Heliotrope Ridge trailhead (https://goo.gl/maps/ZJYzSyNeD41w9yn98). Last 8mi leading to the trailhead on Glacier Creek Road (FS-39) started getting bumpy and postholey after 2mi in. High clearance recommended, but road was passable with caution. Large part of the road was narrow and windy, stay right and slow down to be prepared to yield to the oncoming cars. Road was clear of snow 1.2mi below the trailhead. The rest of the road was mostly melted out, but the patches of snow here and there On our hike out, more cars (all SUVs) made it closer to the trailhead. Expect snow to melt quickly with the warming temperature in the coming week. Don't forget to leave plenty of room for other cars to pass when you park. No facilities at the trailhead, toilet, picnic table and trash cans were partially covered in snow. Remember to bring blue bags and toilet paper, and pack your trash out.

Good news Train Wreck Bar & Grill (https://goo.gl/maps/6iJPJ6P3V6x8dff77) in Burlington is now open for takeout, and their temporary hours are 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, and 8am-8pm Sat-Sun. Go support one of your favorite after-climb restaurants :) 

Stats

0130 Left cars (1.2mi from trailhead)

0200 Trailhead

0430 Hogback camp

0600 High camp at 7,000ft

1030 Turned around at 9,890ft

1430 Hogsback camp

1630 Trailhead

1630 Cars

Gear

Standard glacier and crevasses rescue gear, picket, 10 essentials, lot of sun protection, pole

Car camping: tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, blue bags, toilet paper, trash bags, toothbrush and toothpaste

Comments:

• Poles are useful for creek crossing. Can be shared.
• Wish I brought another pair of thinner gloves for the warmer afternoon, when it's used not for warmth, but just to protect my hands when holding ice axe in case of self-arrest.
• Apply sunscreen and chapstick regularly, at least every 2hrs after sun comes out. Too easy to forget a spot or forget how intense sun reflected off snow is

Route

Mountaineers:

https://www.mountaineers.org/activities/routes-places/mount-baker-coleman-glacier

Summit post: https://www.summitpost.org/coleman-deming-glaciers/155420

3700ft Trailhead 

5,900ft Hogsback camp (low camp)

7,000ft High camp

10,778ft Summit

Forecast

Mountain forecast: https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Baker/forecasts/3285

NOAA: https://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=48.8019170108&lon=-121.895670891#.XsXmI5NKjEY

Some thoughts regarding covid-19 

• Fuel up your cars and stock up food/snacks for after the climb before leaving the city - Everett or Burlington at the furthest, to (1) avoid exposing ourselves to the more remote and vulnerable towns, (2) not expect the gas stations and stores to be open as normal anywhere closer to the trailhead.
• Have a buff handy, and be ready to cover yourself if we find ourselves in any crowded places (parking lot, trailhead, summit, camp, etc)
• Solo driving is tiring, especially after the climb and/or in the dark. Remember to take breaks as needed and don’t risk it :)

Snowshoes were left at the top of Heliotrope Ridge when I arrived at 0230 on 19 May 2020. They are currently in my possession. Please contact me if these are yours. I am located in the Bellingham area. You will need to come to me to retrieve them. I will only return them if you can tell me brand/color/details, ideally with a receipt. My number is two one zero seven two five seven two five one. Text if no answer. 

Park butte trail up to crag view was wet but easily passable. Due to the wind, rain and low visibility we did not makea bid for the summit. 

No bites

there were posts about wasps but none encountered. There were mosquitoes in the snow melt.