We took a variant of the alpine lakes high route over the course of a four day backpacking trip. Strava route link for GPX track below. Bugs were not too bad - we had treated everything we were wearing with permethrin and that really helped.

Day 1 - W Fork Foss TH to small tarn near Chetwoot Lake

Day 2 - Chetwook Lake to Tank Lake

Day 3 - Tank Lake to small campsite in Necklace Valley

Day 4 - Exit via E Fork Foss TH

Day 1

Trail from W Fork Foss through to Big Heart was unremarkable. Some route-finding getting from Big Heart to Chetwoot, but you can mostly follow cairns & a relatively beaten path the entire way to Chetwoot. Beautiful views looking down on Big Heart and Angeline heading out to Chetwoot. There wasn't any water between Big Heart and Chetwoot except a small tarn (marked on the map), so make sure to stock up on water at Big Heart.

Day 2

This was the tricky day. We knew we had two route alternatives - from Chetwoot we could either head up to Iron Cap Lake, or we could go around Azure and Azurite, find the "key ledge", and then head up Iron Cap Pass. We wanted to minimize exposure, and I'm not a climber, so we decided on the second route. There is no trail from Chetwoot to Iron Cap Pass - it's all bushwhacking and route finding. Bring a GPS, and be very comfortable with route finding. We saw no parties beyond Chetwoot lake, it felt very remote.

Getting from Chetwoot to Azure was the more straightforward section of the route. Lots of boulder fields to traverse. Finding the "key ledge" was also relatively straightforward - on our GPS track you can see what we believe is the "key ledge" at the little loop above Azurite. When you are above Azurite, you'll reach a very distinctive overturned tree at about 1390m (the roots are entirely facing you). If you want to avoid anything that feels like a ledge or exposed, head up to your right at this point and you can go above the "key ledge". After the "key ledge" from Azurite to Iron Cap Pass was the crux of the day. Very steep, pine-needle covered forest. Thankfully there were a lot of blueberry bushes we could hold onto. No exposure, but definitely not fun. It certainly felt at places that if you let go of the blueberry you could easily slip about 20 feet down into the forest. Thankfully no devils club. The forest alternates with boulder fields to traverse. Once you've reached the base of Iron Cap Pass you are home free all the way to Tank - heading up Iron Cap Pass is significantly less steep than Aasgard or Headlee Pass & the rocks are very secure. Would recommend filling up water both at Azurite and at one of the little tarns at the base of Iron Cap Pass. After Iron Cap Pass all the streams marked on the map all the way to Tank were either dry or very out of the way of the trail. Stunning views of Summit Chief/ Chimney Rock will greet you at the top of Iron Cap Pass as you head to Tank Lake. 

Day 3

We hung out at Tank most of the day, then the smoke blew in around 6 PM and we decided to head a little lower for hopefully less smoke. We had Tank to ourselves the entire day - amazing swimming. We saw quite a few tadpoles in the lake and a couple marmots. The solitude was nice, and we would have been the only one's camping there Monday night.

We headed down Necklace Valley and passed Opal, Emerald, and Jade lakes. We continued down and camping along the trail at a small campsite about 5 miles from the E Foss trailhead. Heading down from Tank to reach Opal was the most difficult part of the day - it's steep boulder fields with difficult to follow cairns that often dead end. You'll still need to be on your route finding game for this section. Once you hit Opal, it's trail all the way out. 

Day 4

Not much to remark here - walking out on trail from our campsite all the way out to the E Foss TH, then walking 2 miles along the road to the W Foss TH. The last couple miles in the forest are thankfully flat and pass quickly. 

Side note: We found a lost tarp that had been folded and placed under some rocks next to Chetwoot Lake trail between Big Heart and Angeline Lakes that we picked up because we hadn't encountered any campers that could have dropped it as we were coming out of Chetwoot. If you believe this to be yours, please send identifying information to agthrowaway62 at gmail dot com to arrange a handoff. 

We completed the alpine lakes high route, clockwise, 8/29-8/30, with an overnight camp at Tank lakes and a short shuttle between the East and West fork trailheads. Bugs were never enough of an issue to warrant spray. The weather evening of 8/29 was chilly and windy, but otherwise partly cloudy and mild. There were at least a half dozen other parties camped in the Tank lakes area.

The hike up to Tank lakes 8/29 was straightforward and uneventful. We got a late start from camp on 8/30, with wheels up around 9am. The east face of Iron Cap looked intimidating as we approached, but proved more passable than expected. We traversed on/around the mapped snowfields, and took what I believe to be the less used but still obviously trafficked route up a grassy ramp and up through some heather and wooded slopes to the talus field on the east side of Iron Cap's north ridge. As we emerged onto the gentler talus, I noted a cairn marking the way back down. The lower and I believe more popular route is probably preferable, it just appeared steep on the map, so we opted for what we could see.

We encountered two other parties on top of iron cap who had both come from Chetwoot and took the lower route around iron cap lake. We were tempted by iron cap's west ridge, but took the safe bet and descended the north ridge, down to the lake, and around to the boulder field descent to Chetwoot. We started on the trail at Chetwoot around 4pm, and wouldn't make it back to the west fork trailhead until 11:30pm. We moved continuously through this section and took very few breaks, but my partner was in some pain, which definitely slowed our pace on the fairly rough and rocky trail.

Unless you're quite pressed for time or looking to push yourself, I would recommend taking three days to enjoy the route. It might have been a bit easier completing the 2-day route counter-clockwise, but tank lakes make for a superior camp to Chetwoot

We did an overnight at Tank Lakes. Left the Necklace Valley trailhead Thursday and returned Friday. Plenty of parking at the trailhead, we hit the trail at 8:30am.  

The first 5 miles were a good warm-up for what came later. Trail was in good condition, overgrown in spots. After crossing the log bridge the climbing started. From here to the "gem" lakes it's steep, rooty & rocky, but we enjoyed cool temps and few bugs. Except for the hornet that stung me on the shoulder. I heard it, felt it, and ran. Between Emerald and Opal Lakes we threw our schedule out the window. The blueberries were so sweet and tasty, not tart at all. We enjoyed picking as many as we could eat.

At the end of the Necklace Valley trail, we headed to the Tank Lakes. Went up through the boulder fields and returned on a route to the meadow. More than one way to the upper talus & scree. Above tree line we stayed generally higher on the ridge, but saw hikers on less steep routes following the creek. When we crested the saddle and saw the south lake, plateau and mountains, we were elated. It was a long haul with > 5k feet of elevation gain.

Lot's of good campsites available. We made camp on a granite slab, Summit Chief and Chimney Rock overhead. Spent the evening exploring the plateau. It's a large area of pristine alpine beauty. Away from the lake we traveled cross country among gorgeous benches of heather and wildflowers. We tried to minimize our impact as there are no trails. Had dinner and a beautiful starry night.

In the morning had coffee then went to North Tank Lake and up toward Otter Point (did not climb it). North Tank looked like glass. Broke camp and headed back. On the way down we studied the waterfall route to Hinman and the La Bohn Gap. It looked fearsome.

At the trailhead a car we saw earlier with a broken window was still there. We thought maybe the driver did the La Bohn traverse? It may have been there for several days. Hopefully nothing serious.

I arrived at the East Fork Foss River Trailhead shortly after 7:00 a.m. planning to backpack to Tank Lakes. I found that 8 out of the 9 cars in the lot had been broken into and looted. I drove back down to find cell phone coverage and called 911 to inform the sheriff's office. I was told nothing could or would be done unless someone who was an actual victim called in. I also notified my wife that I would be doing just a day hike instead of an overnight trip. This would require taking my full pack because I didn't want to leave any gear in the car. There was also plenty of shattered glass from previous break-ins and, oddly, a freshly cut alder tree that had been made to fall over the entrance to the lot, then dragged clear. I surmised that this was done by the thieves to block anyone from entering while they went from car to car. I left my car unlocked and the glove box open. A few cars parked along the road had not apparently been robbed.

The trail has a split personality: the five miles or so to the river crossing is a lovely forest hike. After that, it's a steep rugged track--no gratuitous switchbacks here! I reluctantly informed those coming down of the probable fate of their automobiles. Perhaps it would have been better to let them enjoy the hike out rather than having to ruminate on what had been lost and the feeling of helplessness and violation, but then I guess I would have wanted to be told. Oddly, on my way down, no one I passed mentioned the carnage in the lot. 

I took a quick (less than ten seconds, I estimate) dip in Jade Lake. The water is colder than expected given how shallow it is. I continued up another mile and a half or so. I regretted deciding to make this a day hike, but as I had informed my wife that I would be coming back that night, I thought I ought to keep my word in the interest of marital harmony. Also, by this time my Alltrails map had stopped functioning. The trail is easy enough to follow, though there is a web of side trails in the meadows above Emerald Lake. I had a green trails map and altimeter, but I had wanted the Alltrails map to help clarify the route up to Tank Lakes. 

I passed about fifteen others coming up. I wondered if they would just be the next night's crop of victims. Everyone was courteous about wearing a mask or making room. The only other annoyance besides the maddening trailhead lawlessness was the military jet aircraft. One pass was was so low, loud, and sudden--really a terrifying crack and roar--that I thought a large rockslide had broken loose above me. Both my dog and I crouched to await our fate. The flyovers, some low altitude, continued off and on all day. Such an amazing display of shock and awe overhead, yet impotent against the depredations of the trailhead robbers below. I know, it is "the sound of freedom," but I was already listening to the sound of freedom--the birds, the babbling brooks, the rustle of wind in leaves surrendering to autumn's advance. Surely a wilderness area should be off limits to loud, low-flying military aircraft! 

 According to the Whidbey Island Naval Airstation, 
"There are aircraft carrier-based flight training operations scheduled to occur at Ault Field and the Outlying Landing Field (OLF) in Oak Harbor and Coupeville, Wash., respectively the week of August 23 - 30, 2020.  People living in local communities should remain aware that the aforementioned operations are not the only operations out of NAS Whidbey Island, particularly at Ault Field, which is a 24-hour-a-day operational facility. There are many other training evolutions that people may hear. However, the aircraft carrier flight training operations are types of operations that involve lower altitude flight training in close vicinity to the airfield. Due to late sunsets this time of year, all night operations are pushed to later than normal times."

There's not much helpful information here, should one want to schedule a hike where one may find the solitude and serenity one expects in the wilderness. Besides a final deafening pass of the jets, it was a peaceful, though long walk back out.

There seems to be no good solution to the break-ins, except leaving your car unlocked and nothing of any value in them. It might be nice if the local law enforcement authorities could coordinate an operation with a decoy vehicle and nab some of these folks in the act, though I suppose this will never happen as undoubtedly there are bigger fish to fry on their list of priorities. 

Good luck! 

BREAK-INS AT TRAILHEAD. We had a great trip up in necklace valley and beyond for 2 nights, until we returned to the parking lot to find that our car, as well as 7 others, had their passenger windows smashed and glove boxes rummaged through. Cars parked on the road outside the lot seemed to be fine - but this could have been a coincidence. Consider leaving your glove box open and empty - or just avoiding this trailhead altogether. It was fun, but not worth the cost of replacing a window.