Took advantage of the long weekend to hike Section J – a longtime WA bucket list hike for me! We hiked in 4 days going SOBO which averages over 18 miles a day which retrospectively was a bit more aggressive than we would have liked.  The trail condition was great, weather was great, minimal bugs, and there were lots of other hikers from PCTers, to day hikers, to other folks doing section J. The vistas were top-notch and everyday had multiple stunning sections.

Many other folks have written up trip reports for this section but I’ll add a couple call outs given our experiences. One aspect that surprised me was the trail grade was quite shallow compared to trails in the Olympics or otherwise which made the climbs/descents feel much longer and take more time than expected. Other notes: (1) We used bear canisters which may have been overkill but had no issues with mice around our camp which we heard other campers had. (2) Deception lakes were smaller and buggier than expected but do have a privy – follow the orange flags on the tree up a short steep trail and you will find a wood one in good condition. (3) Deep lake is amazing and perfect for swimming. (4) Had to be more conscientious of water than we expected. There's plenty of water but we needed to plan around the good water sources. (5) North Park lake was quite shallow and BUSY but we managed to find some nice secluded sites on the far side of the lake following a small footpath. (6) The whole trail is FULL of blueberries and huckleberries! (7) Our dog was (once again) a crusher; however, we wished we had packed extra food since this was the longest trip he had ever been on.

We liked going SOBO to be opposite of PCT "traffic" and loved the views from that direction. We did a key swap with friends and I don't think our camping locations (due to the requirements of 4-day spacing) were as nice compared to their NOBO itinerary. Nevertheless, finishing with DruBru is always great! An amazing gift to have such wilderness so close to where we live. Happy trails!

Two night, 3 day clockwise “lollipop” loop starting at Pete Lake trailhead.

Summary:

Day 1: Afternoon start, Pete Lake to the PCT/Lemah meadows camps about 7.5 miles, maybe 500-600 feet net gain.

Day 2: just 5.3 miles/2300 feet elevation gain up the PCT to the top of Escondido Ridge where there is a beautiful little lake and out Day 2 camp: this alpine tarn was our main objective for the hike. It seems to have been given the name Vista Pond or tarn, but not named on maps. There are actually a couple little lakes, we saw the second from above rambling around. 

Day 3, continued 3 miles northbound along the PCT and along the ridge to the turnoff for the lightly used Waptus Burn trail # 1329C, which we followed to the broad forested area called Waptus Pass, and the T intersection with the Waptus Pass trail # 1329. Took a right (south) on this back to Pete Lake, then back the 4.3 miles to our car. About 12.4 miles for the day.  

More details: We arrived at Lemah meadows around 6:30 (fyi you don’t really see the meadows unless you go into the first camp on the right, sometimes called the stock camp, and the marshy meadow is next to that). We didn’t get to that camp until 6:30, and one or two solo campers were already there. But by 8:00 all three camps at Lemah meadows were filled up completely with PCT hikers. Fun to talk to them, it was a very social evening. A very few mosquitoes. No horseflies now, as mentioned in a previous report. 

Next morning took our time climbing the 2300 foot south facing ridge to the tarn. Mostly very well graded. Best done in morning as shade becomes more scarce at the top. Plenty of Section J hikers and northbound PCT hikers, many of whom commented that the 25 miles from Snoqualmie Pass to there were pretty hard miles. Got the tarn early afternoon and set up camp. Gorgeous spot. Explored, swam, camped, stargazed, watched the sunrise. About 4 parties there for the night. A few bugs, including flies and mosquitoes, used a little bug spray but basically a non-issue. 

Day 3 got going fairly early, we followed the PCT along the ridge 3 miles to the Waptus Burn trail to complete our loop. So many views, high alpine feel, very pretty piece of trail. 

Waptus Burn to Pete Lake: Adding extra description here since there aren’t many recent reports for this part of the loop. I wasn’t sure what to expect but really enjoyed these trails and they didn't seem overgrown. Waptus Burn trail 1329.3 is narrow but easy to follow, looks well maintained with only one easily bypassed blowdown. It goes along the ridge for a bit with a short steep drop here and there followed by a level section with a number of nice looking campsites and TONS of perfect berries, but absolutely no water.  It continues through open forest to our lunch stop at the well marked intersection of the Waptus Pass trail coming up from Waptus Lake. Took a right (south) on that. At the intersection with the side trail to Escondido Lake trail there’s a nice clear stream and a good campsite. Within a quarter mile or so there’s another stream crossing with a small, charming waterfall. Before long the trail plunges down a steep set of south facing switchbacks, many with somewhat loose footing (thankful for both trekking poles and shady spots on this unusually warm day), before leveling off in the forest just before Pete Lake. Other than the loose footing this trail is in great shape with no blowdowns or overgrowth. According to Green trails it’s about 5 miles from the PCT to Pete Lake using this route. The 4.4. miles out from Pete Lake to the trailhead were hot and busy and car thermometer registered over 90 degrees in Roslyn on the way out. Total stats were about 27 or 28 miles including some rambling near the tarn. 

Heavy rains sent us (group of 3) to dryer forecast via Cle Elum area into the Central Cascades.  Approximately 25-28 miles total, figure 8 loop starting at Deception Pass Trail Head 1376 to Deception Pass, north on PCT to Deception Lakes, side trip to Surprise Mountain, back on PCT for cut over to Deception Creek Trail, back to Deception Pass and south on the PCT to Cathedral Rock Trail 1345 then Cathedral Rock trail head which is just a parking lot away from where we started. Pit toilets at Cathedral Rock Trail Head were stocked BUT it had been raining for several days prior to our hike so recommend bring your own as busy place.  

Day 1

Exit 80 off I-90 is shortest access to trail heads but bypasses the usual last minute services. Planned a figure 8 loop with some side hikes.  Paved until on the Cle Elum River Road which was light washboard and at one spot water over the road about 6-8 inches deep. The two trailheads are close together, both had lots of vehicles but neither was full at 2 pm when we arrived to start hike.

Even with the rainy weather there were tents at Hyas Lake but did not look completely full.  We wanted solitude and few more miles. Along this trail and at the camps, low and high bush blueberries were ripe. There were several streams on the trail but best one is a couple light flows after the board walk/puncheon bridges beyond the first Upper Hyas camp site.  Hiked beyond Hyas Lake to Upper Hyas Lake, passed the first camp area BUT second site had limb across trail to camp and lots of dead snags. Opted to go back to the site we had passed.  On the way few hikers heading out from long day hikes and a few passed us heading to Marmot or Jade Lake. Upper Hyas site had a couple places with logs, old fire pits and bridge material being used for seating.  I opted for tent and food prep away from both.  The other two utilized one of the sites with seating and the mice came running to join them for dinner. No damage to any gear, using bear cans. I had no visitors (four legged) just 30 feet away.  Bugs were not an issue on trail but as soon as your hands were busy setting up tent or cooking, the bugs came to dine. Head net would have been nice as they liked to bite just under brim of hat. 

Day 2

Fairly leisurely breakfast and repack next morning then hit the trail.  Maybe five faster hikers passed, heading to Marmot Lake, north or south on PCT. We did a leisurely snack stop at Deception Pass/PCT junction (saw no one) then north on the PCT to Deception Lakes. One Washington PCT section hiker passed, she said a couple more were ahead of her and they would camp at Glacier Lake to complete 18 miles that day.

Plenty of solo or multi camp sites at Deception Lakes but rock hop to get to most of them, close to trail ones are also the way in and out of the rest.  There are a couple sheltered solo sites a bit farther north on the lake near the Surprise Mountain trail head that have easy access. On opposite side of trail, away from the lake there is a side trail to a solo site that might be okay in dry weather, but about an inch of water had collected in it now. We set up camps across the rock hop above the lake. One solo hiker camped closer to lake. Bugs were ready to dine when hands were busy with setup and cooking just like previous night. One took quick dip in the lake, reported water was warmer than the air, soft bottom so jump off a rock and uck came up. Refilled water bottle from flow between the lakes.  

Day 3

Next morning headed south on the PCT retracing a little to access Deception Creek Trail cutoff we had passed the day before. PCT/Deception Creek signage is in place and obvious Y between the two trails.  On the short route between the PCT and Deception Creek Trail there is a spot right in the trail where a rock used to be. Wasp/yellow jacket nest is in the hole. Thanks to a heads up from another hiker, missed getting stung. She got two stings, her dog passed first and not stung. You can walk around but first hiker in group is likely to stir up and rest of group may get stung. Had also been alerted that the trail marker at Deception Creek Trail was missing and still missed the turn. Back tracked when Gaia app showed junction location was behind. Stayed on Deception Creek Trail back to Deception Pass. Short break to chat at Deception Pass. Short distance north on the PCT from the pass is closest water source. Half a dozen multi day casual backpackers at the pass camping for a night or two. They had picked blueberries for dessert. One thru-hiker taking a break just south of the pass at a usable camp site and another solo hiker setting up camp near the pass.  Did not investigate location, quality or quantity of sites as we were headed farther. Passed man with day pack and small child (4-6 yrs) south of Deception Pass so maybe also camped in the area. 

South on PCT to Cathedral Pass Trail 1345. Couple miles south from Deception Pass there is a caution sign for dangerous water crossing and for stock to use Hyas Lake route. Passed a couple thru-hikers drying tents at first rocky water access crossing. This is also location for nice view of Hyas Lake. At next rocky water crossing half a dozen thru-hikers north bound. Plenty of rocks and sun for drying gear and would say this is the "dangerous crossing". Did not spend lot of time looking for dry crossing option, might have been rock hop spot lower. After we had crossed and were going up the other side, saw that the trail went down farther than where we crossed but not really visible from direction we were coming from. Opted for short distance of fast water above knee with some slick and some sharp edged rocks.  One opted for barefoot crossing and got small cut, other two opted for wet boots as none brought their hiker sandals.  

Rocky and up hill for awhile BUT more blueberries so good reason to go slow. Meadows and slopes were full of very short bushes with berries. There is another rocky canyon where you can hear and see water in the distance but access looks like a quarter mile rock hop.  There is a camp site with space  for a couple tents just before trail starts going up hill again. Two hikers opted to stay there, do boulder hop for water.

We still had water for the day and early enough to wait for better option. Had been told there was a reliable water source right under Cathedral Rock. As we hiked up we listened for running water. Most of the way up to the pass, you can hear water trickle and at a bend in one of the switchbacks there is a rocky brushed over trail to the water. 

As the trail starts leveling off there are meadows with the very short bush blueberries and some ponds with water.  We set up at a campsite close to the PCT/Cathedral Pass/Rock Trail 1345 junction.  Forecast was thirty percent chance of rain early in the morning till around ten am.  Set up light hammock tarp for dry spot to have breakfast and pack if rain did arrive.  The bugs arrived at setup and meal time when hands were full.  Mixture of sleet, hail, snow with gusts of wind arrived in the middle of the night and continued till midday but all of it melted as soon as it hit the ground.

Day 4

We opted to cut some of the planned side trip hikes (Deep Lake/Peggy's Pond) and head out. At this point I think we were less than 4 miles from Cathedral Pass/Rock Trail Head #1345. Trail head pit toilets stocked, parking lot had hikers heading out and lots of cars in the lot but space available.  The signs are not consistent on the trail. No. 1345 has some that say Cathedral Pass, some Cathedral Rock and others just Cathedral.  Along with various smart phone apps and a GPS, I like to carry actual maps for trips. Day of trip I bought a Central Cascades map at REI. Map has name change to Squitch Lake, ends trail 1345 at Squitch Lake NOT at the trail head across the bridge over the Cle ELum River.  Trail is there, in good shape with pit toilet and parking at the trail head.      

On the drive out there was a road grader parked along side the road and small portion of the gravel wash board Cle Elum River Road had been graded.     

What a beautiful snapshot of WA!

Hopefully you're doing this on all sunny days so you can get the views. If you are, bring sunscreen. If not, you get the misty magic, which is beautiful in its own right. 

I went SoBo from Stevens to Snoqualmie and was surprised how many people were on the trail, although it is the time of year to catch the PCT hikers headed north. I think I probably averaged seeing/passing a person every hour or so.

There are so many beautiful places to camp, but you may have more luck for solitude with smaller side-hike lakes and even river camps as the bigger lakes can get slightly crowded. There's always spots, though.

The huckleberries and thimble berries are out aplenty among other foragables. The mountain ash, fireweed, and pearly everlasting are prettying-up old burn zones this time of year. As for animals, the pikas and marmots are constant companions, but you might also spot deer, grouse, or a bear if you're lucky.

There are at least two river crossings on the main PCT that can be accomplished by boulder-hopping or finding a shallower section to ford. Otherwise, water is plentiful, the air is fresh, and the trail is well-maintained. 

   I challenged myself to a loop hike starting at the Cathedral Pass TH, with a side trip to Peggy's Pond, back to the PCT to Deception Pass, then taking the Deception Pass trail back to the TH. My mission was to delivery some cold snacks to the WTA crew working near Hyas Lake in the afternoon.
   Parking was crowded at the TH when I arrived at 07:15. I had to repack some things and finally got going at 08:00. Cathedral Pass trail is in good condition. I was able to steadily gain elevation to Nosh Nosh Wahtum. I wish the WTA hiking guide would mention the meaning of the lake name. More steady elevation gain to the junction with the PCT. Head south for just a bit, then branch off to Peggy's Pond trail, which is a narrow boot trail traversing around the base of Cathedral Rock. You get a great view of Deep Lake below.
   I arrived at Peggy's Pond around 10:45. I saw two groups had set up camp, and two guys were fishing. I took some photos and headed back to the PCT junction. There I started to cold soak my lunch and continued on. 
On the PCT, berries were ripe! I snacked on a few handfuls at a few good patches. Delicious! On the map there are seasonal streams but the first one I came across had dried up. I checked the Far Out app and saw that the next stream was also dry and the next water source was  3.3 miles from the junction, the stream/creek feeding into Hyas Lake. I started with 1.75 liters but I had drunk it all. Thankfully it had been all downhill from the junction. The sound of rushing water sounded heavenly when I arrive around 13:15. There I filled up on water and took my lunch break. 
   After lunch I continued on, crossing the creek on rocks. The PCT started to climb again but a few more berry breaks helped me ignore the climb. There were portions where the tread was slipping. Some brushing would also be helpful. I arrived at Deception Pass at 14:30. From there, the trail would be all downhill! I kept a steady pace. The trail is in good condition but could use some brushing. I started seeing brand new puncheons and finally saw the WTA campsite at around 15:35. I delivered the cold goodies to the seven member BCRT crew. We chatted for a bit, exchanging volunteering stories.
   I bid the crew farewell and headed out around 16:05. I was back at the TH parking at 17:15.
   Total miles walked, according to GaiaGPS was 16.9 miles with 3828 ft of ascent and descent, and 9hr 15min on trail.