As being the best kept secret(shhhhhsssh), nobody hikes this trail but in the summer and most likely on weekends only. Thus, for my second time being here-there was nobody on trail. I could let my dog run free. It was awesome!

Road up and trail clear of snow-temperatures were around 30 degrees so  there was  ice and frost to be seen on the rocks and upper parts of the trees, creating beautiful sparkling essence and a white Christmas Wonderland look.

The rock beds were not overflowing with snow melt as I was anticipating...still good for crossing. I only hiked in about 2 miles btw. Daylight was running low.

I have had this hike on my list since 2016 when we were up power brushing the beginning of the trail for a PCTA trail work party.  Having not hiked the trail before, I wanted to return to see how far I could make it to Squire Creek Pass. I knew there was a more maintained trail via Eight Mile but what fun would that be?

I parked at the “new” parking lot about ⅓ before the official one due to the road being eroded away. It looks like some folks have driven over it by running close to the trees and brush on the inside but I wouldn’t chance it myself.  I started walking from the car at about 8:45am.

The trail was basically flat for the first 4.5 miles as it runs on the old road that used to lead up to the original trailhead before the massive washouts of 2002.  A new trail register sat at .8 miles in and little path down to Squire Creek was on the right a quarter mile further in before the trail takes a switchback up to a tack a bit higher up from the creek. Columbine was prolific and the thimbleberry was still green.

I could see that the work we did 2 years ago has started to grow back and there was a few patches that looked like someone has been up since to do more brushing.  I was glad I had worn gaiters, the early morning dew on the brush would have soaked my pants in no time. The trail is not overcrowded but the foliage is definitely closing in.

There were several good sized creek crossings along the 4.5 miles in, some requiring rock hopping or crossing on logs someone had placed across but I managed to cross without getting my feet wet.  Just a short distance after crossing the third creek, the original trailhead appeared at about 3 in (from my car) followed shortly by the Boulder River Wilderness sign at 3.5 miles. There were some nice beginning views of Whitehorse and Bullon here as the trees thinned out.

I reached the last creek at roughly 4.5 miles around 10:45am and made my way across.  Having read the previous trip report, I knew to head down stream to connect with the trail again.  What I hadn’t caught was that in order to see the trail (and flagging), you must be down in the creek bed.  If you are up on the bank (as I was), you will travel down for aways and run out of bank and think that someone must have removed the flagging.  

So, thinking the trail was overgrown at this point with all the warnings about route finding needed, I simply headed up into the trees on the other side (following the map and a glitching GPS), figuring I would run into the trail eventually.  I won’t bore you with the details but 1.5 hours later after an insane amount of bushwhacking and tree gymnastics, I did indeed catch up with the trail at 2800ft after the switchbacks and as the trail begins to sweep across the slope on the contour towards the talus fields.  That's what I get for not taking the  Eight Mile Trail.

I hit the first talus field at about 12:30 and couldn’t have been happier.  The rock slab walls rose up to my left above and Whitehorse and Three Fingers majestically posed to my right.  The views made it all worth it. I stopped for a snack at the second talus field and then continued on with hopes for the pass.  

However coming around to a smooth granite slabbed slope at about 3180ft just a short distance further, I was stopped by a large snowfield and snowbridges with pieces in the process of breaking off.  I knew the trail continued on the other side, I could see a small break in the slide alder. I looked up in hopes that I might be able to circumvent the snow by walking around on the slab but after hiking up 20ft on the edge of the snowfield, I was stopped by a break in the snow and an 8ft drop.  No thanks, I called it at 1pm. I’d had enough adventure for the day.

Returning on the trail was much easier (obvious) on the way back, much of it a deep trench of rock, moss, roots and runoff.  There was plenty of pink flagging now, albeit not really necessary except at the creek. The trail offered lots of practice in maneuvering downed trees both over and under and poles were handy for all the little stream crossings.

I was back down to the creek around 2:15pm and on to the last 4.5 miles or so out.  I passed two couples on the trail headed up and one down at Squire Creek on the first mile.  There was plenty of cat scat all along the trail but no paw prints that I noticed. I was back to my car by 4pm with my GPS calling it almost 13 miles but with all the glitching I can’t count on it being super accurate.  However, my guess is that from the new parking lot to the pass has to be at least 14 miles RT.

More pictures in link below.

I was so happy to revisit this area and push farther up the trail than before.

Hang first right into the town of Darrington, hang a right on Darrington (road, st. ave ?), follow it to the very end. The road is in surprisingly good condition, the encroaching bushes and plants are thin this early in the year. There are only a few small potholes and rocky sections where you have to slow down. Eventually you will reach the road closure sign where there is parking for 3-6 (compact) cars. There was no one there, I had the valley to myself!

.1 miles encounter the washout prompting road closure. A compact car could probably fit but it would be deadly to miss it. 

.4 Miles, upper parking (prior TH), I have seen people pass washout and park here. This is the P on the topo on gaia GPS.

~1 Mile Trail register (newer original TH), currently inactive for early season, not able to see when last visitor came.

2.5 Miles Squire Creek Trail Sign (original TH) This is where the trail gets most interesting. Soon you enter the Boulder River Wilderness and there are old growths everywhere here! The trail is more playful and narrow, twisting through very wild and disheveled forests. 

~ 3.5 - 4 miles encounter a river and rocky clearing, facing the 3 fingers and in your face giant avalanche fields and mountain vistas. This is the last big creek crossing over a distinctly beautiful large white rocky creek. The trail is tricky here. When you reach the river edge, turn right and follow the faint trail down a few paces. There is a tree stump wrapped in pink tape but it is mossy so not apparent. This is where you will want to descend to river, cross and then look for the cairns and pink tape, should be directly across. Make sure you find the actual trail here for it is very steep, narrow and faint after this.

There was much less water this early on allowing me to cross the washouts much more quickly so I can't report much on them besides use your hands and get ready for wet feet. Impassable snow filled the trail beginning on the switchbacks at ~2650' (2800' on the lines on the TOPO map) 4.5 Miles from lower parking (new TH). SO I turned around and took a small rest by the white rocky creek and listened to cacophonous avalanche happening across the valley under the 3 fingers.

This trail will get your feet wet and have you wrapped in spider webs like candy floss. I can't wait to come back in 4-6 weeks when the snow is melted in my new chacos! The views are very unique and much of the trail is a creek it seems at times! I love squire creek! 

What an exciting hike!

We got a later start... we parked around 1 pm.

One 1/2 mile before TH there has been yet another small washout. There is a "ROAD CLOSED" sandwich board sign just before the small washout. There is limited parking located there. One car did still choose to pass the washout park a 1/2 mile up where the overgrown road then narrows and becomes more like a trail. This spot is what passes for the current "trailhead". 

From the very beginning you can see the trail entering the valley and how the mountains opposite squire creek on the other side of the valley pop out larger than life as if super imposed upon the horizon. The crags are dramatic, the waterfalls awesome, and the overall views are majestic and rewarding.

After warming up and getting a good sweat walking up the hot valley, up mostly old, overgrown logging roads surrounded in walls of greenery, trees and flowers ( glacier lily and trillium in abundance, among others) we encountered a sign in box and a trailhead. I signed us in and saw that people have been visiting this trail daily or at least weekly. (That explains the trail and roads great condition despite being un maintained.) 

After this things get trickier...

After this there are several creek crossings, that progressively become larger and more complex to cross. The flowers and greenery surrounding the trail become thicker to pass through. 

The most epic creek blowout took us a good 30 minutes on the way in, and still took fifteen to twenty on the way back due to how swollen the snow melt flows were coming down and due to the sheer size of this blowout. It really is epic.

The secret is to turn right and head downstream. There is some faint though present boot tracks through the woods to the north of the river if you look carefully. Then you must actually ford the many pools actually hike through rushing water and pristine pools, and along logs and rocks. Rock hopping wont be enough to get you out of this one. You will start to notice brush or branches placed by other hikers in strategic spots... These are usually indicators of the trail so look carefully when deciding where to cross and you will make out some trail. There were even some fallen trees that provided a type of hand rail at one particular ford. Luckily we learned the white, rushing water wasn't quite as dangerous as we had expected, so we learned to adapt and carry on hiking through water!

Immediately after this blowout of epic proportions, we arrive at the original TH. It had taken a couple hours to get here, I felt covered in spiders. 

From here, the way becomes a true trail. The trail turns into creek a few more times too (seriously you have to actually hike up creek, wading and hopping through pools and boulders). This part is exciting moving through highly scenic forests with moss and flowers and majestic views! We made it to the "Boulder River Wilderness" boundary sign which is also in disrepair. We ran into some gorgeous old growth trees here, there are two especially impressive ones located directly next to the trail. They are easy to admire and readily available to hug should you wish. Look up and gaze upon their stunning height and shape!

Finally we got to one of the original blowouts that I can remember reading about in very old trip reports from the early 2000s .... With the help of my GPS I realized this was the 2100' point labeled on my "GREEN TRAILS MAPS NO 111SX" officially indicating that we had arrived at the final 2.3 miles with a 2000' gain to squire pass. There was pink tape on the other side of the creek indicating trail, and it was not too difficult to spot. 

At this point it was already 3:45 pm and we had not really stopped at all to rest after all the exciting navigation through water, heat and new terrain. We decided shortly (after running into more awesome views of the three fingers) that we were content and ready to turn back. 

So we sat and enjoyed some food and some rest for fifteen minutes and turned back. And I am glad that we did turn back because it took us just as many hours to get back thanks to the water crossings. With the water this deep and strong it is slow going (though highly fun). We got back to the car around 7.

Conclusion: This hike is a gem!!! It is especially great if you are looking for seclusion we only ran into one other pair of hikers all day (Memorial day). Bring water shoes.  We encountered no snow. There are tons of flowers and butterflies  surrounding the trail. I highly recommend this one to experienced hikers with navigation experience. 

I will be back another time, or at least I will check out the eight mile creek approach. If you intend to reach Squire Pass via Squire Creek, you will need to begin early.

This trail could use some clipping and trimming. Otherwise surprisingly easy to follow besides the many creeks and blowouts. The final two miles that we did not hike involves a 2000 foot gain and I hear it is also overgrown and underwater, so this hike is definitely a piece of work. 

I was inspired to check out the area thanks to "101 hikes in the north cascades" by Ira Spring and Harvey Manning, the second edition, published in the 70s.

 

I will be back when I am in the mood for more punishment I mean adventure :D 

The first 3 miles of the trail are not bad, somewhat overgrown, and some boulder strewn washes to cross but not a huge problem. The large wash about 3 miles in is common to a jog in the trail to the right (downhill). After this wash the trail deteriorates steadily. I hiked about another mile then turned around as I was getting nowhere very fast. The early parts of the trail show signs of recent maintenance (fresh cut logs). I hope the good folks with the saws make it farther up the trail. There are good views here and there of the Squire wall - big time monolithic bedrock.