Spent Jul 24-30 in the Pasayten. Started at the Thirtymile trailhead. Went in the Chewuch trail to the Tungsten trail, then up Tungsten to the Boundary, then west on the Boundary to Upper Cathedral Lk and around to Amphitheater, then back east on the Boundary to Horseshoe Basin, south to Sunny Pass, then to Windy Peak, exiting via the Windy Creek and Cathedral Driveway trails back to the Chewuch and the Thirtymile TH.

As of the 24th, there were some logs down on the Chewuch. Nothing that was a hassle. Interestingly, these had fallen in the past several weeks since a WTA BCRT had logged the trail earlier in the month. Either USFS or PNTA had cut a few trees the BCRT left and had done some brushing and tread work. On the 25th, trees were still down on the Chewuch past the junction with Tungsten, so we didn't do that portion of the loop given the earlier reports.

As of the 28th, there were still messes of logs between Haig Mtn and Loudon Lk, but much of it had been recently logged. (Yay PNTA, I presume!!) It was a hassle but reasonably short -- not at all like the earlier mess reported on this site.

The trails from Sunny Pass to Windy Peak and then from the Peak down Windy Creek were generally clear, with some remaining trees that were easy enough to step over or go around. Windy Cr was pretty brushy. The use of tools for this clearing was interesting, but hurrah, IMO, for getting the job done. I was grateful. Volunteer on a WTA or PNTA trail crew; donate money; tell your congressional reps to better fund the USFS; the Pasayten trails need so much love to keep them from disappearing. And they were all worth keeping!

We didn't hike the Basin Creek trail but talked with two people who had come up it on the 28th. They reported that it was full of downed trees. It sounded like a horrid climb.

The Cathedral Driveway trail down to the Chewuch was the worst trail of the whole week. It's in steep terrain and, as of the 29th, there were lots of BIG trees that had fallen. This section was far worse than the Boundary Trail, though thankfully only about a mile maybe. The sign at the TH warning horses of the impassibility still seemed very accurate. We made it through but it wasn't fun in the heat.

No snow of any substance along the whole route; just a tiny bit along the wall SW of Upper Cathedral Lk that's probably gone by now. River crossings were all rock hops except for Horseshoe Cr in the afternoon but not in the morning. There was frequent water for drinking along the Boundary Trail, though I imagine things are drying up more every day.

CalTopo MapBuilder layer doesn't show the Windy Creek trail or the top of the Basin Creek trail; the 2018 Green Trails Horseshoe Basin paper map shows both, but the actual Windy Cr trail didn't cross the creek as many times as shown on the map, and the actual Windy Creek trail starts/ends at the Cathedral Driveway (aka Chewuch) trailhead instead of half mile west of it. The CalTopo 2016 USFS layer shows both the Windy Peak spur and the top of the Windy Cr trail starting further south than they do. In reality, they connect. At least the trail sign is correct!

Met a former Methow wilderness ranger on Amphitheater who said Chewuch should be pronounced Chee-wok.

As of July 3, the Chewuch Trail was logged out from the Thirtymile trailhead to the junction of the Tungsten Trail. And the Tungsten Trail was logged out almost to Cinch Cr. Join the waitlist for BCRTs! The trip was initially full, but we ended up with only eight people. There's so much work to do in there.

The camps right before the Fire Cr trail junction and the Horseshoe Cr crossing worked well for our seven tents.

Some folks waded Basin Cr and the much bigger Horseshoe Cr while others made their way across on logs. I'd recommend bringing water shoes and hiking poles for the crossings.

Bugs were non-existent on the chilly mornings (30s and 40s) and higher up on the Tungsten trail. But the warmer temps brought them out. They were definitely annoying at times. Most of us wore headnets at some points.

Flowers were out on the lower portion of the Chewuch. I didn't find most of the sections of trail we worked to be especially scenic, but it was better than I expected, and the forest was interesting. The Thirtymile fire seemed to have created a lodgepole pine nursery.

Lost Camera - Pasayten Wilderness - Boundary trail

I made two stops on the Boundary trail when hiking from Upper Cathedral Lake to Andrews pass. I believe I left it on the side of the trail between the turn off to Lesamiz trail and the turn off for Remmel Lake. Last picture was taken on the summit of Amphitheater. I went back looking for it to where I last stopped for water. It was not there so hoping it was picked up by someone going to Remmel Lake.

UPDATE: Camera recovered

This is a very overdue trip report for an attempt to hike the Boundary Trail this summer.  I’m too late to be helpful to anyone this year, but hopefully this will provide detail on some of the lesser hiked portions of it for next year’s planning.  In summary, we hiked EB from Irongate with an intended exit at East Bank TH, a total of ~130 miles, over 10 days, but due to trail conditions and an injury, exited at Slate Pass, with a total of ~90 miles over 7 days.  Trail conditions were great from Irongate past Cathedral Lakes, but became increasingly more challenging from the Ashnola River to the Pasayten Guard Station.  We did not hike from the air strip to Frosty Pass, but reports from 3 other hiking parties coming from that direction were that the trail was equally challenging east bound from the PCT to the Pasayten Guard Station.  Water was plentiful at this time but the bugs were terrible -- 2-3 weeks later in the year would have been better.  More detail is provided below, if you are interested.

Road Conditions: 

We got dropped off at the Irongate TH, leaving our car along the way at the East Bank TH.  FS Road was bumpy but made it up a Honda Accord Hybrid.  Call Forest office to confirm road conditions next year; they were very helpful to us.  Very long drive from Seattle!  Camped overnight at TH; there is a small campground with a loo, but no water -- first stream will be about ½ mile in on the trail.  

Detailed Report 

Amazing wildflowers literally blanketing the earth on our approach to Horseshoe, the air was incredibly fragrant.  Water about half mile in, and then again just after Sunny Pass, a short 100 or so feet from the trail, with an established foot path.  Water at Loudon was clear and delicious and we enjoyed a swim here.  Great camp spot just before the foot of Haig Mountain (about 11 or 12 miles from TH) with a well-established pad and easy walk to stream with very good flow.  I would expect this to run into August, and was also the only strong water source between Loudon and Tungsten.  Bugs were terrible.  Fresh mountain lion droppings spotted.  

Trail to Tungsten was clear and easy to follow.  Due to signs of a lot of mice, I would not recommend sleeping in the cabins unless necessary, but we did hide in there to eat and filter water to get a break from the bugs.  Pit toilets just uphill from the cabins, kind of hidden until you practically walk into it.  A stream nearby had good flow at this time of year, but we had to fill pots and pour into our filter.  Later in the season, you may need to hike further SE to tap into the creek downstream.  No other major water sources from here to Cathedral.

The climb to Cathedral from Tungsten is very pleasant, with excellent views.  Lots more flowers, lots of mountain goats, plenty of water, good swimming in the by-then snow-free Upper Cathedral Lake, LOTS of bugs and good company! -- we socially distanced with a number of other backpackers.  

From Cathedral we hiked to Ashnola.  I don’t recall any water until Spanish Cabin, where we refilled from a roaring creek, and utilized a pit toilet.  From here to the descent into Ashnola, we passed through quite of a bit of burn.  I would not recommend camping in this stretch, however, we did encounter some PNT trail crew tents near a stream flowing near the foot of Bald Mountain.  Then we crossed gorgeous meadow until the drop down to the river, which quickly became overgrown and rocky, and after 2000 ft of descent, my ankles were very tired.  There was a great camping pad and obviously plenty of delicious river water, and sitting by the river provided bug relief.  Fording the Ashnola was easy by this time. 

The next morning we climbed right back up that 2000 ft to Peeve Pass.  The first mile was densely overgrown, but it was still easy to identify and cleared up as we got higher, and so began maybe some of the most immensely beautiful trail I’ve ever hiked, with breathtaking panoramas  of endless peaks, miles of wildflower covered hillsides waving in the wind, and not a soul in sight, except for a moose.  It was incredibly quiet and still and partly sunny and we did not speak much.  We passed Sheep Mountain but did not go looking for the lake, the trail seemed to whisper off into the meadow.  There was a creek with great flow at the bottom of Peeve where we lunched before approaching Bunker Hill.   Rounding Quartz Mountain was fairly navigable, and there was a creek with excellent flow at the low point between Quartz and Bunker.  This was the last water until we camped.  (However, you could hike down and camp near Quartz Lake -- the trail was obvious, but overgrown.) 

Climbing Bunker Hill was very challenging navigationally, due to serious burn, blowdown, and landslide interruptions.  I recommend having strong navigation skills or a GPS for this segment, as it is an easy place to get lost.  Gaia & USGS maps were very helpful, and just remember to stay on the ridgeline up and over Boundary Hill -- around 7000 ft, the burn dissipates and the trail becomes visible again in the meadow.  The views from Bunker Hill are absolutely jawdropping.  Then we dropped down toward the Bunker Hill Creek, through gorgeous heather meadows. We camped by the creek, which was flowing strongly at this time and there is a well established campsite just before it.  Still quite buggy.  

The entire next day we hiked again through challenging burn, blowdown and lost trail.  Again, strong navigation tools are recommended.  You can see the evidence of so much work from summer of 2019, however -- it was challenging, but absolutely possible due to the work of WTA and PNT, and we did okay with the use of an app.  Between camp and the river, there was another cross of Bunker Hill Creek, which was rushing strongly here.  We encountered two other parties here and commiserated about blowdowns.  One couple was doing the entire PNT, covering about 20 miles a day, and they said they were challenged, which consoled us slower pokes.  From here, we whacked our way to the Pasayten, which was an easy ford at this time, slow but knee deep in places.  The reroute here going westbound is well-marked, but we heard from the couple that eastbound, it was not, and they had taken the old, unmaintained route.  

On the west bank of the Pasayten, the bushwhacking continued through burn and river plain.  Again, we saw signs of trail crews the previous year, and we were very grateful!  But the blowdowns in here were the hardest, as they were almost all at hip height, and so required either belly crawls in the mud through branches, or hopping over with full packs on.  I have a few scars.  Lots of fresh bear scat in here.  There are several creek crossings, two were knee deep.  Otherwise you remain high up above the river the whole time.  Note, there is pretty much nowhere to camp between the Guard Station & the Bunker Hill site, due to extensive burn, steep terrain, and blowdowns.  

We finally made it, bruised and tired, to the Guard Station.  Excellent camping with a water spigot, pit toilet, and firepit, beside a meadow.  We camped with neighbors for the first time in a few nights.  Bugs were much better. 

Our hike out was a big day, about 18 miles from the Guard Station to Slate Pass.  We opted for the Middle Fork.  Aside from a confusing reroute sign, the trail was in great condition, had recently been cleared and we were able to move quickly for hours.  The gentle downhill gradient felt amazing.  Water was plentiful and we saw lots of established camp sites.  We struggled a little to find the connection with the Robinson Cutoff, as the trail gets a little zigzaggy at the creek -- but only from WB.  Once we found the trail on the other side of the creek, we realized it would be very easy to see EB.  Good flow at the creek. Finally, we ended with that brutal climb from the creek to Slate Pass.  Steep, rocky, and already very dry in here by late July.  Amazing views the whole way up.  The last quarter mile of dusty basin to the pass is wild -- hard, and then you’re rewarded with that amazing pass view on the western ridge.  We camped at the lovely little fee campground about 2 miles down the road.  I did not see water here. 

We exited early, but based on reviews, the trail would have continued to be challenging from the Guard Station up to at least Frosty and the PCT junction.  Overall, a really amazing week in the Pasayten, with some of the most rugged solitude we’ve every enjoyed.  While we met some trail vets out there, we are not, and we found this to be challenging in every respect, but very gratifying.  I highly recommend strong navigation skills & preparation, going a few weeks later to minimize bugs, and being prepared for lots of hopping over trees.  Thanks to all of the trail crews who’ve been working on this trail recently -- while blowdowns are inevitable, I literally could not imagine getting through all of this trip without the work they’ve done already!  This is an amazing part of the world and it’s even more amazing that folks are keeping it accessible.  

On June 26th we hiked in from Iron Gate trailhead. The parking lot is in good shape and has been expanded to hold about 30 vehicles. It had two when we arrived. We spent the night in the parking lot and then headed up past Sunny Pass and Horseshoe Pass to Louden Lake where we camped for the night. Trail conditions were excellent. We encountered three hikers, 2 rangers on horseback with 2 ponies, and plenty of spring flora. After dinner at Louden, the weather was clear so we hoofed it up to the top of Armstrong to take in the views.

On June 27th, anticipating a couple days of stormy weather, we compressed two days hike into one and pushed all the way to Tungsten Mine. There we staked a claim in the upper cabin, started a fire, collected wood and water, and enjoyed not tenting in the wintry mix (mixed rain and snow). On June 28th we awoke to snow and more wintry mix. We explored the mine and surrounding area. Upon returning to the cabins we met two groups that had arrived. One had 8" of snow dumped on them at Cathedral Pass and the other had hiked the same 14 miles we had, but a day later in much less fun conditions.

On June 29th, we again awoke to clearing skies so we day hiked over to Apex mountain and gained the summit. The views were outstanding with clear skies and good cell phone reception.

On June 30th we awoke to more wintry mix, rain, and rainbows. Since we we were running out of good weather days, we decided to day hike to Ampitheater and if we had time and inclination, climb up Cathedral on the way back. We hiked out to Cathedral Pass and 100 minutes later we were standing on the summit in a cloud. A couple pairs of boots in our group didn't withstand the waterproof tests after crossing a half dozen snow fields. That and damp spirits precluded a summit bid on Cathedral.

On July 1st we packed up and hoofed it down the Tungsten Mine trail to the Basin Creek trail. I counted about 70 down trees in the trail on that section. At the Basic Creek trail, we turned and headed back Northeast, hoping to make a summit bid on Windy Peak the next day. The first couple miles of the trail had been cleared by a trail crew, making it possible for us to reach the "campground" at 5600'. There the trail maintenance ended with enormous jumbles of trees across the trail as far as the eye could see. Having two pack goats in our group, we improved the campground a bit and spent the night before our retreat.

On July 2nd we hiked back down to the Chewuch trail and out to the Chewuch trailhead. From there we walked down the road to Long Swamp. From there, two of us hitch hiked back to the Iron Gate trail road to fetch our trucks and conclude the trip. Upon arrival at the trailhead, we counted 17 vehicles.