I did a 3 day, 2 night trip going counter clockwise on the loop from Thursday afternoon to Saturday morning.

Day 1:

Headed up the Pilot Ridge, there were a few blowdowns but nothing too crazy; the trail could be found within a minute of scouting. The bigger issue is water if you are going this route. Going up I counted 2 water sources (not counting the random seeps running down the trail. There is a really strong stream that was wide enough to rock hop, then another weaker stream higher up near one of the blowdowns. Otherwise it is pretty dry until hitting Blue Lake. Luckily I was prepared for this and carried 2.5L upon hitting the ridge to dry camp. I had a late start so I was already on the lookout for camp sites. I saw a pretty large clearing for multiple tents, but continued a bit further to a 1 tent site 7.5 miles from the trailhead according to Strava. 

Day 2:

The clouds rolled in overnight and I was treated to dew dripping from the trees above, but upon waking up I had a glorious view of Glacier peak with fog filling the valleys below. Continuing to Blue Lake, I decided on a side quest to Johnson Mountain which I highly recommend. The trail up was very straightforward I had stunning views of Blue Lake below and was able to see Mt Baker down to Mt Rainier. However, at this point the mosquitoes were well aware of my presence and I suspect they will get worse over the next week or two. I made my way down to Blue Lake and up the High Route. I didn't have microspikes but was not held up by the lingering patches of snow. By the time you read this, they will be even less of a concern or completely gone. A quick decent down and following the PCT to White Pass, I set up camp at the campground below the ridge.

Day 3:

I made a quick stop to check out Red Pass before heading down back to the trailhead. On the way down I encountered a bunch of parties with helmets and axes on their way up to Glacier Peak. Once in the forest there were several Doug-Fir and Red Cedar with massive trunks I couldn't help but gawk at. Also distracting were the blueberries coming in, as well as a patch of wild strawberries. I made it back by 11am to a full parking lot with a few cars parked on the road. 

We had such a fun time up on White Pass / Pilot Ridge this weekend, and we are sincerely grateful to @StrawBari for such a detailed report from the week of June 28 that encouraged us to come up. (Other hikers we encountered mentioned this same report!) Wanted to pay it forward with a few more notes on trail conditions as of July 4th weekend:

• Snow has shrunk considerably over the course of the last week. We brought microspikes and gators and did not use them. While they might have been nice to have on in a few limited sections, at no point did we feel they were necessary - and the snowfields remaining aren't on any particularly spicy sections.
• Bugs: There should be an option for these reports between "bugs were annoying" and "bugs were terrible." They were more than annoying but not quite August-levels of mosquito armageddon. A bug net was helpful. 
• We did not see any bears or evidence of them in the area. There are a lot of grouse in the woods though, making that fun whoop whoop sound everywhere you go. 
• Pilot Ridge trail is in rough shape with lots of blowdowns. These are navigable but they turn an already unpleasant trail into total drivel.
• White Pass was quite busy and there were lots of groups camped outside of established campsites or on the ridge, on the meadows. (Please do not do this; it's prohibited and bad for the meadows.)

Other highlights:

• There is a nest of baby marmots almost immediately as you depart Upper Blue Lake for Pilot Ridge. It's on the left hand side of the trail.
• Wildflowers are popping. Huckleberries are coming along.
• Shoutout to Adrienne and Vinnie for being great trail neighbors!
• Thank you to the person who cleaned up and took out the several cans of Coors Light that another camper left at Blue Lake. To our Coors Light fan, please GFYS.

Happy to answer questions in the comments.

I hiked the White Pass - Pilot Ridge loop counterclockwise over the weekend of Jul 4-6. Overall the trail conditions were good, though the non-PCT parts of the trail are noticeably steeper and a bit less well-maintained. I took the Blue Lake High Route and found it quite manageable--details below.

Direction: The WTA description describes the route clockwise,  and I think that's the more popular direction given that I met quite a few clockwise backpackers and I seemed to be the first person to give them snow beta. I hiked counterclockwise because I wanted to start with the river crossing I was least certain about, and because I wanted to hike the section of the PCT facing Glacier Peak as I did when I thruhiked in 2022.

Day 1: I camped about a mile from the trailhead Thurs night and started my hike in earnest on Friday, July 4. Crossing the North Fork Sauk River was easy as there is a very large log fallen across the tree, and it's been cut/flattened on top to make it easier to walk across. It's high enough above the water to not be too slick. After that the trail ascends relentlessly up towards Pilot Ridge. On this ascent there were two spots where there were a couple blowdowns that obscured the trail enough that having a .gpx track downloaded was helpful, but generally the trail is in good shape, though steep. The trail crosses a raging stream at ~3800 ft that is probably the last reliable source before Blue Lake. Early in the season I found a couple streams after that, but nothing after reaching Pilot Ridge itself. The hike along the ridge is beautiful and you can look across the valley and see where the North Fork Sauk River Trail meets the PCT on the long, open slope between White and Red Passes (see photo). I ended my first day at Blue Lake, which is a gorgeous campsite but filled up early on the holiday weekend. 

Hiking the loop counterclockwise means you're front-loading the vertical. While my first day to Blue Lake was a bit over 12 miles, it did include 5000 ft of ascent. If you're concerned about spreading out the ascent, hiking the loop clockwise as described on the WTA site, and camping somewhere well before Blue Lake the first day should work out. 

Day 2: I ascended the Blue Lakes High Route. From Blue Lake you're ascending the northern, snowier face first and descending the south face. The trail just above Blue Lakes crossed a short snowfield that was moderately steep but above a long run-out ending in the lake, so I put on my microspikes and got my ice axe out. Above that short section I found the upper half of the high route trail only crosses low-angle snow and only briefly, so put my axe away for good. The steepest part of the ascent is on scree but stays off of the remaining snow chute entirely (see photo). Then the south side descending was also snow-free. If I were going back next weekend I definitely wouldn't bring an ice axe, but might still pack spikes (but only because I'm pretty risk averse).

When the trail joins the PCT it's much smoother going, with smooth, gradual ascents and descents. In the early season there was abundant water. The stretch crossing meadows approaching White Pass is phenomenal. There's still a bit of snow but I found it easy to cross. I passed some campers who had set up right on the ridge and shortly after saw the sign saying don't camp on the ridge--which they must also have seen. Don't be those people!

The descent back down to the North Fork Sauk River is steep, but probably less so than the Pilot Ridge trail. Since I was descending I went faster and didn't note if there was any water. I camped near the remains of Mackinaw Shelter and thought it was a lovely and large campsite next to the river. 

Day 3: The 6 miles from Mackinaw Shelter to the trailhead is glorious old growth forest, and the trail is in great shape. I would have taken my time more if town food weren't calling...

TL;DR: Loop is possible but still early in the season and lots of snow to contend with.

Did the loop as an overnighter going clockwise. The road to the trailhead is in great shape and my low clearance sedan had no issues. 

Day 1: TH to Blue Lake - 18.5 miles

First 5 miles along the river were smooth sailing and nothing too notable, just a little brushy as you get to the base of the climb. Climbing up to White Pass is a good workout but you're rewarded with great views as you get higher and pop out of the trees. Along the ridge to the pass, I saw over half a dozen marmots hanging out near the trail. One even trotted down the trail ahead of me for a full minute! At White Pass was where the fun began. From White Pass to Perfection Pond was almost all snow for that ~2 mile section. Slow going but doable with the help of microspikes and poles. There were a few footprints to follow but not the most well-defined trail so be sure to bring a gps/navigation device. Continuing south on the PCT there was intermittent snow throughout. A sustained section leading up to Indian Pass and then again to Dishpan Gap. From Dishpan Gap I made my way over to and up the high route to Blue Lake. A couple more small snow fields on the way up and coming down from the top of the high route was not as bad as I expected it might be. I dodged around a few snow patches and then butt-scooted the rest. Blue Lake is melting out but still plenty of snow around so limited campsite selection for now. 

Day 2: Blue Lake to TH - 10.5 miles

More snow patches descending from Blue Lake to the Pilot Ridge trail and then snow free climbing up to the Johnson Mtn turnoff. From the turnoff, there was a ~0.5 mile section that had a lot of short snow patches, only difficult spots were where the trail had a very steep side slope and the snow was piled high. Some I crossed and one I bush-wacked around as I didn't like the look of the sideslope. From then on it was fine with some easily crossable snow patches every once in a while. Descending from the ridge down to the river did have a fair number of large downed trees that had to be climbed over or bushwacked around. 

All in all a great loop even if a bit early in the season. I got it pretty much all to myself too, didn't see anyone from White Pass where climbers turn off to summit Glacier Peak until the next day along Pilot Ridge. If you go in the next couple weeks be ready for snow but by mid-July I bet the trail will be running great.

TLDR; yo, this hike is incredible. Outrageous mountain views, fall colors and mushrooms. It's also pretty challenging.

trail

I brought my overnight gear, but ended up day hiking the trail instead. Great weather was fortunate. I began hiking around 7:45 a.m. clockwise. The first few miles along the river are chill, and the climb up to White Pass felt easier than the elevation profile would suggest.

The reward is many miles of brilliant autumn reds and golds, along with views of Glacier Peak and other rugged mountains. The descent was pretty steep in parts, but became gradual switchbacks once back beneath the tree line. I reconnected my loop and finished the last two miles in the evening, reaching my car around 7:45 p.m.

The trail is in great shape overall, with only a handful of blowdowns to navigate throughout. There's a short stretch just East/Northeast/CCW from Blue Lake that is a little scrambly, so please take care. Physically, take heed: this trip had some of the steepest inclines I've hiked all summer.

I only encountered a handful of other parties, and had most of the trail to myself. A few hunting parties, too, and a note in the trail register about somebody who lost their handgun on a hike. Seriously, who just misplaces an instrument of death while on a hike? 

Fungi

Fungi kingdom, I tell you. This is the best time of year in Washington. It's an embarrassment of riches. Spotted on this hike along were:

• chanterelles
• bears tooth
• chicken of the woods (many flushes)
• king bolete (swimming in them. More than you can imagine)
• hedgehog
• lobster 
• and many more

Drive

The road is rough. It's doable in a smaller vehicle, but I was glad for my Outback. Trailhead had space for several more cars and the bathroom was clean and well stocked.

Distance: 28.8 miles
Elevation: 7,671 feet
Moving time: 10:38:25