262

Ape Canyon, Loowit Trail — Jul. 19, 2012

South Cascades > Mount St. Helens
4 photos
Sunrise Creek
WTA Member
Outstanding Trip Reporter
300
  • Wildflowers blooming

1 person found this report helpful

 
Ape Canyon Trail is one of my annual hikes on Mount St. Helens. It traverses a diversity of landscapes, climbing from the edge of the Muddy River lahar along a forested ridge to the pumice desert at the head of Ape Canyon and the Plains of Abraham. Do not believe the sign at the trailhead. It says 5.5 miles to the Loowit Trail; the actual distance is around 4.25 miles. Since the Loowit Trail junction is beyond Ape Canyon, the distance to the canyon is closer to 4 miles. If all you want to see is Ape Canyon, you can turn around there. I always go another mile or so to the Plains of Abraham. There is a terrific lunch spot and turnaround point at the cliff edge that offers grand views of Mount St. Helens and Mount Adams. The full distance is about 11 miles round trip and 1,900 feet of elevation gain. Last year, we saw several mountain goats near our lunch spot; none were visible this year, but I did see goat hair caught in a willow beside the trail, so the goats are still around. Every year offers something different to see. This year, it is the remains of a snow avalanche off of Mount St. Helens at the head of Ape Canyon. Normally this area looks like a dry, rocky river bed. This year, however, it is full of snow -- the first time I have ever seen it like that. Ape Canyon got its name in 1924 when some miners, who had a cabin in the valley below at the foot of the canyon, reported to the Forest Service ranger at Spirit Lake that someone was throwing rocks off the cliff down on them. Unbeknownst to the miners, the ranger called all the boys at the YMCA camp on Spirit Lake "little apes." When he replied to the miners that it must have been the apes, they took him seriously. When the ranger realized he had the opportunity for a practical joke, he played it up. "Oh, I think some apes threw them down on you, all right. Haven't you heard of the apes up there? The apes roll those rocks down." The miners' story spread, and soon it was known at Ape Canyon. The full story is recounted in "Spirit Lake People" by Alan Guggenheim. Since the Ape Canyon Trail goes through different habitats, it offers lots of wildflower species. The trail starts in an old clearcut, now reforested. After about 1.5 miles, the trail goes into old growth forest. Admire the huge Douglas-firs, western red-cedars, and western hemlocks as you hike up a set of nicely graded switchbacks. The trail attains the ridgetop, passes some openings, crosses back and forth over the ridge, and descends through a saddle before the final climb and ridge cross-over. The trail breaks out of the forest just a few hundred yards before it reaches Ape Canyon. The vegetation changes dramatically from forest to pumice desert. Before the 1980 eruption, the Plains of Abraham were a green paradise of meadows, flowers and streams. The Plains are slowly being recolonized by pioneer plant species like lupines and penstemons. It is interesting to watch the changes from year to year, all beneath the east face of Mount St. Helens.
4 photos
Rebecca Lavigne
WTA Member
25
  • Wildflowers blooming
 
What a spectacular section of St. Helens to explore! Based on Eli Boschetto's excellent recommendation (see his 7/7 trip report) I set out to hike Ape Canyon. Views of the mountain start pretty early, with Hood and Adams showing themselves too. Some woodland flowers were blooming in the understory (there are still some big trees here!) The miles went by quickly and soon I was out of the trees at the junction of the Loowit Trail with the Plains of Abraham (how epic) in front of me. I was surprised to see a lot of bright pink heather in bloom among the rock here. This is where the Ape Canyon trail ends and I decided to continue on, turning right (east-ish) on the Loowit. Close-up views included blooming lupine and one very cute marmot. In the distance, Rainier shows itself. In 1.8 miles I reached another junction, and turned left to continue on the Loowit to cross the plains to head up to Windy Pass. (This is the section that overlaps with the Plains of Abraham Loop.) As I left the plains and headed up a hillside loose with pumice and ash, there was a short section where the trail had eroded away. It required careful footing to make my way across this and regain something that looked like a path. Then, from Windy Pass, I had a new view: Spirit Lake. This added about 5.5 miles to my total mileage for the day but was so worth it. Even if you don't have the time/energy to continue this far, as long as you are carrying enough water consider exploring a portion of the plains. All of the trail junctions were well signed. It was a Friday and I only ran into 3 other groups the whole day - hikers, backpackers, and trail runners - no mountain bikers that day.

Loowit Trail — Aug. 21, 2011

South Cascades > Mount St. Helens
Beware of: road conditions
  • Wildflowers blooming
 

Entered from Windy Ridge, and completed circuit of the mountain. Complete trip report is posted on http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=742347&confirm_post=12, to which pictures will be added. This WTA report will focus on conditions encountered. Wildflowers are going wild at the top of Ape Canyon near the waterfall north of Pumice Butte! Get water there, as the streams between there and June Lake are muddy. June Lake (where we camped night 1) waterfalls are beautiful. My 20-year old Green Trails shows trail 244 going from June Lake to Swift Creek, but a sign at the lake identifies this as a winter ski route 244D, and no summer route across the lava here is evident -- had to hike the steep trail back to Loowit Trail above June Lake. I'm not sure if newer maps make this clear. Hike from June Lake to South Toutle is the longest and toughest of the three sections of Loowit if you choose to do it in three days. The lava flows west of the crossing of Ptarmigan Trail (summer climbing route) are marked with posts, pipes, and cairns, but still hard to follow in places. Contrary to the persistent USFS trail report, there is only one small patch of snow to be crossed, between the lava flows and Butte Camp Trail. It is a bit steep, but several folks have avoided the danger by going 100 feet lower in the shallow gully. The main thing to note on this south and west side of the mountain is that the trail is longer than topos and guides show, as there is a mile+ detour down the Blue Lake Wash that loses around 400+ feet of elevation which must be regained. Crossing the South Fork of the Toutle can be a challenge, both crossing the creek itself and the scramble up the north side of the gorge. We camped in the meadows to the north, which necessitated downclimbing and reclimbing this unpleasant cliff in the morning. The advantage of camping here vs. the Toutle Trail camp is it gets the crossing done the day before the climb back up to 4400 feet. Some of the large boulders embedded in mud are solid, but a few are not! Go one at a time, and stay clear of the area below. Crossing the north side of the mountain to Windy Ridge is the Great Volcano Adventure. First of all, I understand WTA did a lot of work on this section last year. I wondered if our late spring might have wrought some damage, but found the trail to be in excellent condition. THANKS! We saw the elk (120-150 of 'em?) traveling east across and then north down Studebaker Ridge. It felt like being on a safari! There was plenty of good water coming down the middle tributary of Studebaker Creek (but obviously needs filtering due to abundant wildlife!). The creek coming down from Loowit Falls (Loowit Creek? or upper North Fork of Toutle?) is muddy, and was fairly challenging to cross a day and a half after a somewhat rainy night. And it's muddy. The next really good water is the spring east of Loowit Falls below the Forsyth Glacier ... a veritable Eden with all the monkey flowers and willows, and a great place for a break in the hike! However, there was a lot more water flowing down the north side of the mountain than one might expect in the last half of August, and all of it could be made drinkable in a pinch. Anyone who thinks they know St.Helens by having climbed up the south side is missing the true experience of this mountain...do the hike around to really get to know her!

Loowit Trail — Aug. 11, 2011

South Cascades > Mount St. Helens
4 photos
Beware of: snow, trail conditions
  • Wildflowers blooming
  • Ripe berries
 
Starting at the June Lake trail head, hiking and weather conditions were perfect. Although over grown in several areas, the trail was in good condition. Lightly traveled so far this season, we met few other backpackers, but many day hikers near trail heads. Wild flowers were prolific and a bumper crop of mountain strawberries provided unscheduled refreshment. Water is abundant, even in typically dry drainages. The only difficulties were crossing the South Fork of the Toutle River (trail washed out, exposed scrambles down and up)and Loowit Creek (fast, high water, no marked crossing). The Windy Pass Trail is very exposed, as is Muddy River. The ever changing scenery is breathtaking. I recommend this hike as a must do for all Pacific northwest hikers.
4 photos
Sanderee
WTA Member
10
  • Wildflowers blooming
 
This was a repeat hike for me, this time coming in from the North via Randal, FS road 25 and 99 to Windy Ridge. Wear plenty of sunscreen and carry water, as there is little cover. Wildflowers are blooming in wonderful variety, and there are chipmunks, ground squirrels, a variety of birds, and even a frog near Loowit Falls. I started on the trail at 9 AM, and didn’t see anyone until 11 AM, and then it became a gregarious party of mountain bikers coming in from the Ape Canyon Trail and a van full of hikers from Canada. This is a highly recommended hike, and it’s worth carrying a tripod to get those photos with high apertures and depth-of-field. Go soon; the wildflowers are at their peak.