I hiked the White Pass - Pilot Ridge loop counterclockwise over the weekend of Jul 4-6. Overall the trail conditions were good, though the non-PCT parts of the trail are noticeably steeper and a bit less well-maintained. I took the Blue Lake High Route and found it quite manageable--details below.

Direction: The WTA description describes the route clockwise,  and I think that's the more popular direction given that I met quite a few clockwise backpackers and I seemed to be the first person to give them snow beta. I hiked counterclockwise because I wanted to start with the river crossing I was least certain about, and because I wanted to hike the section of the PCT facing Glacier Peak as I did when I thruhiked in 2022.

Day 1: I camped about a mile from the trailhead Thurs night and started my hike in earnest on Friday, July 4. Crossing the North Fork Sauk River was easy as there is a very large log fallen across the tree, and it's been cut/flattened on top to make it easier to walk across. It's high enough above the water to not be too slick. After that the trail ascends relentlessly up towards Pilot Ridge. On this ascent there were two spots where there were a couple blowdowns that obscured the trail enough that having a .gpx track downloaded was helpful, but generally the trail is in good shape, though steep. The trail crosses a raging stream at ~3800 ft that is probably the last reliable source before Blue Lake. Early in the season I found a couple streams after that, but nothing after reaching Pilot Ridge itself. The hike along the ridge is beautiful and you can look across the valley and see where the North Fork Sauk River Trail meets the PCT on the long, open slope between White and Red Passes (see photo). I ended my first day at Blue Lake, which is a gorgeous campsite but filled up early on the holiday weekend. 

Hiking the loop counterclockwise means you're front-loading the vertical. While my first day to Blue Lake was a bit over 12 miles, it did include 5000 ft of ascent. If you're concerned about spreading out the ascent, hiking the loop clockwise as described on the WTA site, and camping somewhere well before Blue Lake the first day should work out. 

Day 2: I ascended the Blue Lakes High Route. From Blue Lake you're ascending the northern, snowier face first and descending the south face. The trail just above Blue Lakes crossed a short snowfield that was moderately steep but above a long run-out ending in the lake, so I put on my microspikes and got my ice axe out. Above that short section I found the upper half of the high route trail only crosses low-angle snow and only briefly, so put my axe away for good. The steepest part of the ascent is on scree but stays off of the remaining snow chute entirely (see photo). Then the south side descending was also snow-free. If I were going back next weekend I definitely wouldn't bring an ice axe, but might still pack spikes (but only because I'm pretty risk averse).

When the trail joins the PCT it's much smoother going, with smooth, gradual ascents and descents. In the early season there was abundant water. The stretch crossing meadows approaching White Pass is phenomenal. There's still a bit of snow but I found it easy to cross. I passed some campers who had set up right on the ridge and shortly after saw the sign saying don't camp on the ridge--which they must also have seen. Don't be those people!

The descent back down to the North Fork Sauk River is steep, but probably less so than the Pilot Ridge trail. Since I was descending I went faster and didn't note if there was any water. I camped near the remains of Mackinaw Shelter and thought it was a lovely and large campsite next to the river. 

Day 3: The 6 miles from Mackinaw Shelter to the trailhead is glorious old growth forest, and the trail is in great shape. I would have taken my time more if town food weren't calling...

Our WTA work party logged out the North Fork Sauk Trail as far as the PCT, including a 40" diameter log at about 3 miles. Big trees on this trail are amazing. Wildflowers along the way included Columbine, Tiger Lily, Mertensia, Canadian Dogwood, Tiarella, and Queen's Cup. We also cleaned up the access to the Pilot Ridge Trail, and sent a crew over the bridge to start logout there. 

The bridge at Red Creek Camp has several sections of railing broken. The bridge at Pilot Ridge Trail is a fallen log with no railing.

Note: there is now a vault toilet at the trailhead.

I drove out to the North Fork Sauk River trailhead for an overnight loop hike.  The loop I did is a combo of the White Pass-Pilot Ridge trek and Craig Romano's Blue Lake Loop.  Starting at the NFSR trailhead, I walked south on road 49 for 3 miles to the Bald Eagle Mountain trailhead.  There is an impassible washout on this part of the road so you have to walk or mountain bike from NFSR or one of the nearby pullouts.

Bald Eagle is overgrown in places but never hard to follow.  The first 4 miles or so to Curry Gap is a mellow woodsey hike with some muddy sections of trail and several blowdowns.  Hikers can cross them easily but stock might have more difficulty.  After a snack break at Curry, the trail switchbacks up the ridge to Bald Eagle Mountain.  There are steep sections that are nicely broken up by gentler grades.  The trail gains the ridge and meanders you through splendid meadows to June Mountain.  A few down trees along the way but not tough to go around or under.  There's very little water past Curry Gap: only one tiny trickle at about mile 8.5 and some stagnant creek water at the camp 9 miles in.  I camped on June Mtn and woke to find myself in a cloud.  I packed and headed past the Pilot Ridge Trail junction and on to Dishpan Gap.  Had I been doing the Blue Lake Loop, I would have turned onto Pilot Ridge and gone toward Johnson Mtn.  Instead, I hiked 3 miles through misty meadows to Dishpan and the PCT.  I met some thru-hikers there who said there is an alternate route open for the PCT Northbound.  Apparently you take the Indian Creek Trail to the White River, over Boulder Pass, through the Napeequa Valley, over Little Giant Pass and then head up Phelp's Creek to Spider Gap.  Now there's an adventure!

I followed the PCT north for 8 miles or so to White Pass.  Blueberries are ripe and the leaves are turning purple and red.  Ran into a handful of other hikers but not as many as you'd expect.  White Pass was between groups when I passed through and the mist lifted just enough for a few pictures. Heading back down the Sauk River Trail, I passed three parties heading for Glacier Peak.  There are a few blowdowns on the NF Sauk Trail including a big one you have to crawl under.  The log bridge called Redbridge has damaged railings probably from a fallen tree.  There is an easy ford just downstream if you are uncomfortable with the gap in the railings.

Summary: ~35miles RT w/~7000ft elevation gain. ~16 hours moving time.

"Farewell we call to hearth and hall! Though wind may blow and rain may fall. We must away ere the break of day. Far over wood and mountain tall."

J. R. R. Tolkien, The Hobbit

TL;DR - Great trail, strenuous climb, sweet views, nice camping. A BIG blowdown ~3.5mi from the North Fork Sauk River Trailhead on Saturday night (8/31) is passable with some scurrying under the tree without packs.

A quick overnight out-and back from the North Fork Sauk river TH to glacier peak meadows and back. We logged about 26-27 miles including a detour to white pass before heading over red pass.

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Drive in: Roads were in decent shape. Slow going the last 5-ish miles on FR 49. Low clearance cars might struggle in a few spots. Parking lots full but easy parking along the side of the road.

Walking: Lovely hike the first 5.5mi to the Mackinaw shelter. Trail was in impeccable shape on our way in. This is a nice spot to stop and snack by the river. Past the shelter the vertical stacks up quickly until you connect with the PCT in another ~4mi. We took a quick detour toward white pass to check out the view, then doubled back toward red pass. Pretty much everyone we passed was heading to or coming from white pass, aside from the folks heading to summit Glacier Peak. A handful of marmots greeted us at higher elevations plus one grouse.

At red pass we descended down past the cinder cone and into the meadows, which were lovely as our shadows started to get long.

Sleeping: We descended about 2 miles from red pass until we reached the established campsites. We only saw 2 others camping. (Note: one mentioned they had planned to make a loop north on the PCT presumably via the lost creek ridge trailhead back to FR49, but when they got to the junction near Kennedy hot springs the trail disappeared, so they turned back. This is second hand so your mileage may vary.)

A few of the campsites were right on the trail, one was nicely secluded on a bluff, ours was a little off trail but not far. Nice cold water source west of the PCT near the campsites.

Returning: The hike back was as expected except for about 3.5 miles from the TH, a LARGE tree had fallen across the trail in the 24 hours since we came through. We did a double take and wondered if we had somehow veered off course, but we were definitely on the same trail. Surprising since there were no winds or weather overnight. We were both able to scurry under (had to remove packs to do so), but the horses we saw descending on Saturday surely wouldn't have made it through a day later.

Nice stop at Moe's in Darrington on the way home!

Hiked the Pilot Ridge Loop over three days, beginning at the North Fork Sauk trailhead. The road is quite rough with many big potholes and a small rocky section so a car with some clearance is best. No issue in a Forester, just slow going.

Trail is in great shape and very smooth until the climb up to White Pass. Some small rocky areas but overall great. Several small streams flowing along the way and ripe berries everywhere. No water on trail from the PCT junction to Red Pass. Very cloudy and damp this day at the pass with times of sun in the evening.

The next day continued down the PCT above the clouds in the higher portions and down into deep fog through Indian Pass, then back out near Kodak Peak. There is water in places through this section to Dishpan Gap but very small slow flowing streams. Continued over the high trail to Blue Lake which was fully socked in except for a few hours in the evening. Some mosquitoes but nothing bad.

Made the side trip to Johnson Mountain which was unfortunately fully enveloped in clouds. Trail was in good shape though. Then a long cloudy walk out Pilot Ridge. Rougher trail than the PCT but in good shape. No water between Blue Lake and a small source as the trail drops down into the Sauk river valley again at 4700 ft. Great log to cross the river.