We started at the Robinson Creek Trailhead mid-day with the plan of reaching a site we’d camped at before, about 7.5-8 miles from the TH in a lovely meadow with a big rock to sit on with enough food for a 9 day trip, not sure where we’d go but we would have options. Trail had obviously had more traffic than on Memorial Day weekend when we were there last- blowdown trees we’d bushwhacked to get around now had bypass trails. Lots of brush starting around mile 3 and lasting until the ford of Robinson Creek, which was about mid-calf deep. Our campsite has a very friendly deer that grazed close to us while her two fawns stayed a safe distance away. The number of blowdowns along this trail to Robinson Pass is annoying but not terrible… There’s a campsite near the Slate Pass junction that has water.
Robinson Pass is lovely! To camp there you’d need to carry water from the Slate Pass junction or head north of the Pass for a stream. The trickles we found there were muddy. Trail here was in great condition! We saw baby grouse learning to fly and their fiercely protective mother ran us away in the other direction with a loud display. Adorable. More campsites at the second junction for Slate Peak in a meadow- looks like lots of campsite options and water there. We could see that blowdowns had been freshly cut in this area along with two backpacks, some tools and a thing we thought was for carrying logs. At this point the trail started to devolve into a mess of blowdowns. We met a hiker who told us the blowdowns were really terrible. He’d camped at Tatoosh Buttes and still-snowy, Lake Doris. We thought he said he’d come via Hidden Lakes and Shellrock Pass to get to Lake Doris in a big loop to avoid the blowdowns 2x, hmm… We continued through the blowdowns and next we met the two FS men who were there to clear the trail, oh man do they have their work cut out for them They said they had been working for two days and it looked like they might have cleared ¼ to ½ a mile of trail. We do not believe it is an overestimation that there are well over 100 blowdowns per mile, and likely significantly more between here and the ford of the Pasayten River near the junction with Buckskin Ridge, about 9 miles away. Every kind of blowdown: big, small, multiple trees, across the trail, along the trail. We ended up with the crotch fully ripping out in his pants (thanks OR for giving us a new pair today!) and I with two black and blue legs covered in bruises.
By now we’d covered over 10 miles, 5 of it very difficult. Lots of bear signs, including some of the biggest fresh claw marks we’ve ever seen on a tree. Very important to practice bear safety here. I put the bear spray on my hip belt. We camped just beyond the junction to Lake Doris/Shellrock Pass near the noisy stream. The campsites here are small and fit our 2 person tent but don’t think anything bigger would work here. We decided to try for a long day to Tatoosh Buttes and camp there.
The next morning we continued traipsing over, under and around the blowdowns for another 5 agonizingly slow miles. Maybe a mile an hour and we normally hike 3mph in terrain like this, even with our 50+ lb packs. At the junction near the Pasayten River ford we found an old falling-apart handwritten FS sign stating that the trail ahead was impassible to stock due to a landslide and lots of trees down. We could see lots of trees down. We were tired of blowdowns so we decided to take the detour and ford the river, which was about knee deep. The trail beyond the river was downright pleasant compared to what we’d been doing- occasional blowdowns, not brushy, etc. The forest was alive with the sounds of animals and trees creaking in the increasing wind. We reached the junction where you can continue straight on to the Pasayten Airfield but passed on the 2 mile detour this time and turned right. Here too is a sign stating that there is a landslide and the trail is impassible to stock. Hmm. So the detour for stock is also impassible to stock? This sign would be helpful at the first detour location. It is quite the landslide! The whole trail is missing on a very steep section and many trees have fallen into the river. We were able to easily get above it but it was not easy to descend back on to the trail. I took off my pack and lowered it to the trail before taking a controlled 3 foot feet first dirt slide to the trail- cautious because if I’d slipped too far would mean falling quite a distance, possibly into the river. It looks like there should be a bridge here anchored on two large rocks but no bridge was in evidence. The water was deep and we could hear the rocks moving in the strong current. I think a ford here would be thigh deep in the shallowest sections. We found a two-tree collection to slide across with some difficulty- you either have to change trees mid-river or stay on one tree that ends a foot or two before you reach the other side of the river. Not for the timid, which I count myself as.
The Tatoosh Buttes trail starts off in lovely forest alive with low underbrush and the sounds of birds. We had another tricky log crossing at Lease Creek, but a ford here wouldn’t be deep if you wanted to take the time to deal with it. We passed a marked junction for Lease Lakes—but there is definitely no trail there—just the signs. The trail gets very steep to the Buttes and the wind was viciously cold as the clouds grew dark and drizzly. We put on our raingear to block the wind first and secondly for the very light drizzle. Once on the ridgelines the trail gains and loses elevation through meadows and burned tree ghosts. It’s lovely. More mother grouse and babies. It’s definitely baby season in the mountains! We were tired and didn’t realize we’d reached the buttes- having been eyeing the ridgeline towards Ptarmigan Mountain and mistaking it for the buttes along the way. We ended up camping on Tamarack Ridge in a meadow. There was a little trickle of water below the tallest Butte and another on the way to Tamarack Ridge but we don’t know how long there will be water here for camping. This is a stunning, starkly beautiful place. Wow. The wind is bitingly cold and we put on all our warm layers, grateful we had a 15f double sleeping bag to snuggle up in. We had brought microspikes, considering going over Ptarmigan and Dot mountain and back via the Col west of Lago... but from afar we could see that was clearly ice axe terrain. The small patches of snow at our elevation were very hard and it seemed likely we'd need crampons for that traverse right now. Boo.
We *really* didn’t want to go back through the 1000+ blowdowns, especially as we were already down one person’s pants (he was now hiking in sweaty hot rain pants that had a new tear in them). Despite all the joking about hiking without pants being the *new ultralight thing*, we really didn’t want to do that and it would be painful. I repaired the pants a second time that evening (the repair had ripped out rather quickly that morning), hoping they might hold if we had to hike out through the blowdown town. The rangers had suggested we hike out via Hidden Lakes since it was freshly logged out! And we *thought* the one hiker we met said he had come via Shellrock Pass on the Monument Creek trail. It was marked on the green trails map as a dotted line, which in other areas usually means a passable trail (haha, not in the Pasayten!). We decided to head for Shellrock Pass after spending the night at Hidden Lakes.
The next morning it alternated between bitterly cold wind and snow and sunshine, finally settling upon bitterly cold wind and snow showers. We went to the ridge of Ptarmigan Peak and looked down at Ptarmigan Lake and the Tamarack valley. We could hear wolf cubs yipping in the breeze, sounding fairly close by. The snow turned to rain as we descended towards Hidden Lakes. There were maybe a dozen annoying blowdowns to contend with. A couple of small streams for water. Then we found freshly cleared trail about a mile from the lakes- heavenly! It’s brushy in places but otherwise totally clear. The Hidden Lakes weren’t visible until we were upon them, true to name. I wanted to find the Monument Creek trail for the next morning so we continued past the lakes for a while… never seeing a junction. If the Lease Lakes trail wasn’t on the map and had signs, shouldn’t a trail on the map have a sign?! We pulled out the map and GPS and returned to the south end of the last lake where the trail should be. The talus is arranged like an old junction and the rocks made a neat crossing, like a trail should be there. But no trail. We bushwhacked a little through very thick underbrush, finding some old cut blowdowns—this must have been the trail. Trail is no more. I cried, knowing we either had to go back the way we came or hike out to a different TH and figure out a way to get the 50 miles back to our car. We backtracked to the Hidden Lakes to think and camped at a major camp area with two outbuildings and a nice stream for water. There was an occupied tent near the hiker campsite- we walked right by and talked in case they would pop out and have information for us, or maybe even offer us a ride the next day? Maybe they were sleeping It rained but was pleasantly warm compared to Tatoosh Buttes. Things were not sounding good for us right now. No pants. Covered in bruises. On the plus side we still had 4 days left of food and more if we ate sparingly so we did have options.
This was the first time we’d ever wanted to use the satellite phone we carry for emergencies in the backcountry. We texted out and asked a friend if there was any taxi service in Mazama or Winthrop. Two hours later a message came back. Yes. Mountain Transport and here was their phone number. We contacted Mountain Transport and were told they usually want 2-3 days notice. We said we’d try them back in a couple hours in case they changed their minds. We resolved that we’d be going out via Billy Goat TH even if they said no- at the worst we camp at the TH until we can hitch a ride. On our second call, Mountain Transport agreed to get us at the Billy Goat TH (horse lot) at 3pm the next day for $279. We decided that was worth it to us and gave them our CC information to reserve the pickup. That TH was 16 miles from where we were camped and an extra mile to the horse lot.
We were on the trail before 7am, knowing we’d have to hike steadily and quickly to make it there on time. We made good time and were 5 miles on our way by 9:15am. We took a break near Diamond Creek after crossing a REAL BRIDGE (not the ford I’d been anticipating) and enjoyed a snack. The trail steadily climbs from here but never really steep. We moved slowly, wanting to conserve energy. About halfway to Lucky Pass is a pretty meadow area with a nearby trickle of water that could be a nice camp. We passed one party of two carrying an uncomfortable looking raft headed to Hidden Lakes. I’d put that thing in a pack for a 16 mile hike! This made 3 hikers, 2 FS employees as our human total in 5 days. Almost to the pass is a pretty rocky outcrop. All along the way are amazing views of the surrounding peaks, Many Trails (which has no trails on the map, ha!), Three Pinnacles, Rampart Ridge. We took a longer 15 minute break to dry out our feet and enjoy the sunny weather- it was only 11:30am. Go us!
Lucky Pass doesn’t appear to have anywhere to camp. Lots of trees down and no water. We descended a steep rocky dry path for a while- no sign of the single long switchback on our GPS (marked on the map as a 2 mile alternate route). Many blowdowns had been cut- looks like this would have been very unpleasant before the log-out. The trail descends to cross Drake Creek on a bridge just after a junction stating that the Billy Goat TH was 4 miles ahead and a left turn towards Larch Creek (and Hidden Lakes 12 miles the other way). We were getting tired but 4 miles sounded manageable. The bugs were really bad in this section. I wear clothes treated in permetherin so they mostly avoided me but my sweetie was eaten alive. There were annoying bugs everywhere else along the trail besides Tatoosh Buttes but this area is by far the worst. We hadn’t read the map carefully—another 1,000 foot gain to Eightmile Pass before the descent to the TH. This felt like a really long 4 miles to the gate at the road, followed by another mile to the horse lot. We arrived at 2:30pm with very tired feet and 1 minute later- the taxi showed up. The driver told us all about the area and his adventures on the 1.5 hour, 50 mile ride back to our car at Robinson Creek TH. FYI: should you ever have to hike out another trailhead in an unplanned fashion in the general area, the cabbie recommended that you make your way to a campground as they are regularly checked by FS employees, even in remote areas like FS Road 5130. The FS employees can radio out to call you a mighty expensive cab ride like ours, or you might find people willing to give you a ride! (I always carry $100 emergency cash in my 10 essentials for a scenario like this)
Boy, this was long! Our route 58+ miles, 12500 elevation gain and 10500 loss over 5 difficult days. I think once the Pasayten River section is logged out this hike will be much easier The FS guys said it was a priority because Slate Pass road will be opening soon. I’d check with the Rangers before heading out unless you enjoy this sort of adventure!