This was me and my boyfriend's first time doing Eldorado Peak and we decided to attempt a 1 day push (car-to-car) to save on weight. It took us 15.5 hours to successfully complete. We arrived on Saturday night to scout ahead for the log crossing, car camped, woke up at 3a on Sunday, and started out ascent at 4a. We encountered a lot of skiers/snowboarders. 

DRIVE TO TH PARKING LOT:

• Once Cascade River Road turns to dirt/gravel, there are some deep ruts that require you to slow down and crawl over. Shouldn't be a problem unless your car is lowered. I drive a sedan and had no issues.
• We encountered a big black bear around mile 18 of Cascade River Road. It ran off into the trees on the side of the road, but just be careful not to leave food out in the parking lot.
• The parking lot is unmarked but it should be obvious. It's right before the mile 20 gate.
• The bathroom at the TH is actually super nice and clean.

FINDING THE OFFICIAL TH SIGN (see pics):

• My advice is to scout this out ahead of time in daylight or be sure to give yourself a lot of time for trial/error. There are a lot of downed trees, but really only one direct path to the TH sign. It took us awhile to find in the daylight, but it was super easy to retrace in the dark.
• Go 200ft down the Cascade River Road from the parking lot in the direction you drove up from. There you'll see a bunch of logs stuck creating a "bridge" from the road to the river shore. This is where you need to cross. The second log is super easy to miss. It should be right in front of you once you cross the first section.
• From here just look for obvious signs of wear/tear on downed logs and you should be able to find the official TH sign. You should be aiming to continuing going straight forward. These logs are all big and wide with branches sticking out to conveniently use as hand holds if needed.

BOULDER FIELDS (2):

• Snow starts about little less than half way up both fields. 
• There are lots of cairns to help guide you, but generally go up and trend to the right.
• Try to stick on the boulders for as long as you can to avoid the snow. Post holing is very real. Watch out for thin snow bridges around boulders sticking up and deep moats. Another climber told me at one point he had punched through, caught himself with his arms on the snow, and his feet were dangling below him as he couldn't touch the ground.
• We had considered bringing snowshoes for this part, but decided to leave them in the car. I think this was a good decision. 
• We heard that on Saturday the black bear mother and her cubs were hanging around the middle of the boulder field area. We didn't see them on Sunday but just be aware. 

GULLY:

• Warning - the gully to cross over the ridge to Roush Creek Basin/Eldorado Glacier is located around 6,150'. DO NOT FOLLOW THE OBVIOUS FOOT PATH TOO FAR UP. At some point foot path splits:
  • To the left is the ridge and the gully pass - the correct way.
  • To the right it continues to follow the ridge up North - this is wrong. You will have to do significant down-climb once you realize the end of it is too far up. One climber said it took him an extra 45mins to come back down to the gully spot. Another group of climbers said that this mistake cost them too much time and they ended up forfeiting their 1 day climb.
• You'll know you're in the right area if you climb up the ridge and see an old camping spot in the snow at the top.
• There's a huge gap at the bottom of the gully and a big moat forming. We ended up jumping around 6' down on Roush Creek Basin from the gully as downclimbing on the slippery wet exposed rock seemed dangerous. It might be worth considering bringing 2 ropes to this climb: 1 for glacier, and 1 for the gully section. Use it to rappel down the gully and to assist with climbing back up. When it was time for us to go back this gully later in the day, we actually got super lucky. A couple had rock climbed the rock face unprotected and set up a belay at the top to lift their equipment up. They offered to belay us so that we didn't have to climb unprotected as well. We didn't end up slipping or falling during the climb, but it feel super sketchy without protection. Super grateful to them and their kindness.

ROUSH CREEK BASIN / ELDORADO GLACIER:

• After the gully, we put on our crampons, our climbing helmets, and took out our ice axes. You can follow an obvious foot path all the way up.
• We chose not to rope up as there was no crevasse danger. Just a lot of packed in snow. We did not witness any rock fall from the ridge but just be careful.

INSPIRATION GLACIER:

• You can finally see East Ridge and the peak in all its glory!! And the land finally levels out to be more flat. Continue forward to the base of East Ridge to start the final leg.

EAST RIDGE:

• There were a few camps set up here on the rocks and some skis/bags there were left behind for the summit push. We did see some folks ski all the way down from the knife edge!
• We ascended a couple hundred feet and then roped up.
• There are currently two obvious crevasses. My advice is to traverse under the first one and to the left of them. A lady told me her party traversed above and to the left of the first one and one of her legs post-holed into the crevasse that was still covered by snow! The majority of the boot path should be winding to the left - but just be careful not to go to the right of the crevasses going up. 

KNIFE EDGE / SUMMIT:

• Knife edge is amazing! It's pretty exposed at the top but if you plant your crampons and ice-axe in firmly it's do-able. Just take your time if you're afraid of exposure/heights like I am.
• Prepare for an amazing 360 degree view of the North Cascades. :)

Overall, conditions are great for late Spring.

Do your best to find the trail ASAP after the river crossing (sign post) to save yourself bushwhacking hassle. Begin to climb. 

As of writing, snow is about halfway up the boulder field(s). Cairns help a LOT with navigation, though just "go up" won't steer you wrong either.

When snow begins, attempt to stay on rock for as long as possible as snow is mushy, covering holes, moats, and the like.

Once over treeline "ridge" (after waterfalls), the terrain settles, if only slightly, and the snow is in better shape, comparatively speaking. 

Either ascend to the 6,150' notch a bit below it (likely boot path) or opt to go just above and slope left (west) to the notch.

There are a few options here. Both involves a bit of scramble/climbing at the bottom. The snow has melted a 20-30ft section at the bottom of the typical notch, but there is less snow gap slightly further south (look for former camping spot/trench on ridge). Be very careful  a slip wherever downclimbing could be nasty.

Enter the Roush Basin! Climb more. Reaching the terminus of Eldo Glacier can be taken right bearer ridge or left around ever-growing gully.

Traverse Eldo Glacier to lower East ridge where there are ample bivy sites. 

Camp out, nap, or head up. It's about an hour to an hour and a half to summit from accessing east ridge. Stay far left (south) on east ridge to avoid opening cracks and crevasses. Boot path SHOULD be evident and well from harm.

Stand atop the world (if only for a moment)then do it all again in reverse.. (end of Eldorado Peak report) 

OR head down to base of east ridge and traverse the Inspiration Glacier to 8,000" Klawatti Col. Pick to ascend Klawatti Peak or head westerly to the McAllister Glacier (watch for ice/rock fall) to the Klawatti-Austera Col. Be warned, there is a large moat forming here. I searched for a "safe" crossing and marked my path quite well to aid others. Required the least downclimbing and exposed rock travel.

Traverse the Klawatti Glacier to Austera Peak (like moi) or head down the east ridge of Austera and round the bend up to Primus (have fun with that lol). 

Glaciers are all in great condition currently. 

Enjoy this absolutely majestic land!

Time up: 6 hours (moving, 45min rest/food) up. 

Time down: 3.75 hours down. Anticipate longer for both if you haven't been here before. 

Road is open and generally in good conditions. Snow start in middle of bolder field. Skis or snowshoe highly recommended. Few creases on upper section, but all well packed.

Full report at link below.

What an amazing weekend in the backcountry. Backcountry experience, route finding, avalanche experience and glacier travel is a most or you’ll get lost and kill yourself. The road has some pot holes but passable, two small washouts may become a problem down the road. Started the hike by crossing the river that’s currently raging at two spots. Trees that come and go will be your path of passage. The first .3 miles is pure bush waking but you can somewhat see a trail. Once you reach a little higher elevation you’ll leave the brush behind. This is where it gets step and doesn’t let up until the bolder field. Snow starts at the boulder field. The boulder field is melting out but navigating through it isn’t such a pain going up then it was coming down. The first .3 are manageable before you hit solid snow and it becomes “easier”. We started post holing from here on out to at-least our shine. Many avalanche debris you’ll cross but many seemed a week old. We went straight up to the ridge which is not the normal route nor safe but seemed safer to get the dangerous part out of the way. We climbed the ridge in a past wet slide path to decrease the chance of creating on. Followed the ridge and went down the gully. This is where the glacier starts but we did not rope up cause it was pure snowfields. Snows melting quick so this will change within days/weeks. We cross the field staying on the right but far enough from rock fall and slides that we saw happening here in the near past. We went to the right on the ice cliff since it was snowed in. We crossed Inspiration glacier on roped, again cause it was a snow field. Set up camp at the first boulder field which was East Ridge camp, it’s melting out and it was able to give us 4 spots to sleep at, room for the group of 4. Started at 10 am the next day and headed up through the rocks, my partner and I climbed the rock wall for fun while our other party of 2 went to the gap and we met up on the glacier. IMPORTANT, no obvious crevasses are showing but we ran into two, one groups postholed into one. We opened that one so you should see it coming close to it. The second one is off and was showing a little. The final push was a little crazy since we where the first once to put down a path on it. Snow was somewhat firm but still sunk in to my ankles. Summit was beautiful and room enough for a couple parties. Going down was fun. The rest was just horrible post holing back to the boulder field. Multiple ski parties where out and summited, lucky no one fell into the crevasses.

Eldorado Peak. 

I'll keep this brief, unlike the hike. 

Casacade River Road is clear of snow (a few down, passable trees) to MP 20 at the gate.

Find the trail ASAP. It makes life MUCH easier as you climb hard, fast. Log that has been used as a crossing doesn't seem to still be there (at least, doesn't look like pictures). There are several places to cross. The best is nearer the washout. Try hard to stay on trail once you're on it (I didn't hit it until about 1,000' gain in..).

The boulder field is hell. Especially with the current, extremely wet, loose snow coverage. Signs of avalanches are in abundance. Be careful of falling through; it's possible anywhere on this section. Just keep climbing. 

As you rise, meander away from the cliffs, closer to the sound of water, for more stable ground.

I'd suggest climbing just left (nearer cliffs/west) of the waterfalls near 4,900-5,200 feet. 

After the waterfalls, the conditions DRASTICALLY improve. Lines in the snow become better, slopes settle down a bit, a footpath becomes legible (barring no brand new snow). 

I went at the end of a week of high temps and clear skies. The snow was very dense and avalanches were fresh and still happening as I climbed. Simple glissading caused loose, wet avys.

Climb slightly above the notch at 6,150', then come down to the notch (only 100' or so. The two "trees" at the top of the notch are the last. Take advantage of the shade, melt some snow, eat some food, take in the splendid views.

Descend the notch and climb, climb, climb to the Eldorado Galcier at 7,500'. The Roush Basin is awesome looking (as is the Eldorado Creek basin). 

Currently there is a small ridge leading the the Eldorado Glacier. On either side there are large gullies. Left at the base of the glacier is an enormous pit. Right, beneath Eggplant/spire, is snowmelt drainage. Either looks inviting, but likely EXTREMELY unstable; don't go into them.

The Eldorado Glacier opens up along with the views all around! As of now, there are no VISIBLE crevasses, but don't head too far right/east as that's where they're supposed to be.

Ascend onto Inspiration Glacier by going through some rock outcroppings lower down (not too far down, possible crevasses, not visible).

Ascend the East Ridge of Eldorado, but BE CAREFUL. I made it to about 8,300' before I found an opening crevasse. I turned back there because I was solo and had no ropes/crevasse safety (yeah, yeah, don't need a lecture...lol). I was bummed not to summit, but the trip was absolutely stellar. Only 30 minutes from summit...I'll be back!

The crevasse had about 3 inches of snow coverage. I noticed it from probing with a pole and because there was a foothole! Someone had plunged their foot into the ravine; thankfully they hadn't fallen in.

I did make a smaller circle (about 8" diameter) to the side of the footpath to hopefully demonstrate to future travelers that there is a crevasse there and it's opening with these warmer temps.

Ascent took about 11 hours, with rests/stops. Descent took a bit under 4 hours. 

Helluva day hike; original plan was 2 days, but weather was forecasted to move in, and it did! Complete cloud coverage by the time I hit the treeline again at 6:30-7pm.