Eldorado Peak — Friday, Apr. 27, 2018

Eldorado Peak. 

I'll keep this brief, unlike the hike. 

Casacade River Road is clear of snow (a few down, passable trees) to MP 20 at the gate.

Find the trail ASAP. It makes life MUCH easier as you climb hard, fast. Log that has been used as a crossing doesn't seem to still be there (at least, doesn't look like pictures). There are several places to cross. The best is nearer the washout. Try hard to stay on trail once you're on it (I didn't hit it until about 1,000' gain in..).

The boulder field is hell. Especially with the current, extremely wet, loose snow coverage. Signs of avalanches are in abundance. Be careful of falling through; it's possible anywhere on this section. Just keep climbing. 

As you rise, meander away from the cliffs, closer to the sound of water, for more stable ground.

I'd suggest climbing just left (nearer cliffs/west) of the waterfalls near 4,900-5,200 feet. 

After the waterfalls, the conditions DRASTICALLY improve. Lines in the snow become better, slopes settle down a bit, a footpath becomes legible (barring no brand new snow). 

I went at the end of a week of high temps and clear skies. The snow was very dense and avalanches were fresh and still happening as I climbed. Simple glissading caused loose, wet avys.

Climb slightly above the notch at 6,150', then come down to the notch (only 100' or so. The two "trees" at the top of the notch are the last. Take advantage of the shade, melt some snow, eat some food, take in the splendid views.

Descend the notch and climb, climb, climb to the Eldorado Galcier at 7,500'. The Roush Basin is awesome looking (as is the Eldorado Creek basin). 

Currently there is a small ridge leading the the Eldorado Glacier. On either side there are large gullies. Left at the base of the glacier is an enormous pit. Right, beneath Eggplant/spire, is snowmelt drainage. Either looks inviting, but likely EXTREMELY unstable; don't go into them.

The Eldorado Glacier opens up along with the views all around! As of now, there are no VISIBLE crevasses, but don't head too far right/east as that's where they're supposed to be.

Ascend onto Inspiration Glacier by going through some rock outcroppings lower down (not too far down, possible crevasses, not visible).

Ascend the East Ridge of Eldorado, but BE CAREFUL. I made it to about 8,300' before I found an opening crevasse. I turned back there because I was solo and had no ropes/crevasse safety (yeah, yeah, don't need a lecture...lol). I was bummed not to summit, but the trip was absolutely stellar. Only 30 minutes from summit...I'll be back!

The crevasse had about 3 inches of snow coverage. I noticed it from probing with a pole and because there was a foothole! Someone had plunged their foot into the ravine; thankfully they hadn't fallen in.

I did make a smaller circle (about 8" diameter) to the side of the footpath to hopefully demonstrate to future travelers that there is a crevasse there and it's opening with these warmer temps.

Ascent took about 11 hours, with rests/stops. Descent took a bit under 4 hours. 

Helluva day hike; original plan was 2 days, but weather was forecasted to move in, and it did! Complete cloud coverage by the time I hit the treeline again at 6:30-7pm.