Did a three day two nights backpacking during Memorial Day weekend.

The first day. We left Seattle at 9am on Saturday morning and hoped to arrive at trail head around 1pm. However, I did underestimate the number of people that entered the ONP during the weekend, as I have to wait inline for 1 hour at Quinualt wilderness information center to get backcountry permit, and another 1 hour to wait at the entrance station at Hoh Rainforest. This unexpected traffic made us arrive at trail head at 3:00pm. We set out the trail around 3:30 and arrived at Lewis Meadow campsite at 8:30. This portion of the trail is of very good condition. Luxurious forest, flowing creeks and blooming wild flowers. A few stream to cross but nothing difficult. The trail is almost flat. When we arrived at Lewis Meadow we were almost the last one that arrived. Many tents had been pitched up on the meadow. We thought to do similarly but there were quite a lot of bugs in the meadow. We move closer to the river bed and saw many more empty sites there. I think this is a better choice as we saw fewer people, flatter land, and also we were closer to the water.

Day two. We left our campsite at 10am... a late start. After passing the Hoh River bridge the rainforest transited to pine trees and the landscape seems to suddenly change to a different world. There was a larger washout at Martin Creek, where you had to go off trail to the bank, and crossed the creek from the down logs. Red ribbons were put on the trials so pathfinding was not difficult. I didn’t find the restroom in Martin creek campsite, although it was advised so. Also from Martin creek on there started endless uphills, and after passing elk lake campsite, the view started to broaden and there were several nice view points where we saw the gorgeous snow peaks, white glacier, river valley, and numerous water falls coming down from the snow cap into the river. Truly breathtaking! After that came the rope ladder. The trail right before rope ladder is right above the cliff, narrow, exposed and the rock is very loose, so definitely traverse with caution. The rope ladder itself was not as scary as it looked. Many people turned around at this point as they had been quite satisfied with the vista views of the valley and snow peaks, but I would highly recommend continuing the trail further down. During Memorial Day weekend there were many backpackers so we were waiting at the rope ladder for half an hour before our turn to go down. After the rope ladder we thought we were pretty close, but now yet. It is the Glacier Meadow campsite. The campsite is, just a campsite. With no views. From there another 1.3 miles steep uphills leads to alpine terrain above tree line, the most exciting part of the trip! We saw the top of the forest, surrounded by snow peaks, alpine meadows, wild flowers, rocks and patches of snows. At the time of the year the snow field traverse was manageable, without the need of any equipment, although it is steeper and costs more energy to walk all the way up. Traversing above a few patches of snow we arrived at a ridge, where the peaks of Mt Olympus and Blue Glacier was in full display. We spent around 6 hours to arrive and my Gaia App logged 10 miles from Lewis Meadow to blue glacier. After enjoying the view and chatted with a few guys who plan to climb Mt Olympus, we set up back and arrived at the campsite at 9pm. Totally 11 hours of hiking roughly about 20 miles. A long but rewarding day!

Day 3. We all got pretty tired for the past 2 days and left campsite at 11am. Arrived at the parking lot at 3:45pm.

Overall, a phenomenal trip! The biodiversity, the snow peaks and glacier would definitely make ONP a world class hiking destinations!

What a treat to experience and explore this beautiful river valley.  I took advantage of the beautiful weather this week to spend three nights in the Hoh Rainforest. I spent the first two nights at the Olympus Campground and the final night at Mt. Tom Creek. I attempted to day hike from Olympus Ranger Station to Blue Glacier on the second day but didn't make it past the ladder.

Permits: I went to the Wilderness Information Center (WIC) in Port Angeles to get my permit as I was under the impression that the Hoh River Valley was a "quota" area of the Park that required specific reservations at each camp and that were limited in number.  After talking to the rangers and looking at information posted in camp, I realized the quota system on the Hoh River Trail only applies to Elk Lake and Glacier Meadows.  They don't limit the number of backpackers at the other sites and you have a bit more flexibility if you want or need to stay at an alternative backcountry site.  You can also self-register for non-quota sites at the WIC on the south side of the park, which doesn't open until the summer.  This will save you some time if you are coming from Olympia/Portland.

Trail Conditions: The trail is in great shape through the first 12 miles.  It looks like there were a lot of blowdowns over the winter but trail crews have actively cleared much of the trail.  There is one major blowdown just before Martin Creek.  Look for flagging across the creek to identify where the trail picks back up.  As you climb beyond Elk Lake you will find some intermittent snow fields, but the trail is easy to follow and pick back up.  

There are two steep chutes right before the ladder on the way to Glacier meadows.  The first is just rock, but very steep so proceed with caution.  The second is covered with snow and there is a small river running under the snow.  I only had a light daypack on, but punched through the snow about 2-3 feet.  Shortly after I reached the ladder and it was fully exposed (see the photo).  It looked like the ladder was missing a rung or two, and a couple others were only partially connected to the rope.  I decided to turn back as there was a much larger river running under the snowfield at the bottom of the ladder and I didn't want to risk it while hiking solo.  I did hear from someone on my way down that they talked to two hikers who had successfully made it to the meadows the day before.  I also ran into a few different groups that were planning on camping at the meadows, one of whom was planning on climbing Olympus.  I wouldn't recommend trying to cross the snowfield below the ladder with a heavy pack right now, particularly as it will continue melting with the warmer weather.

The hike above Elk Lake is worth it just for the great views of Mt. Olympus and Mt. Tom.  It is definitely a long day-hike from the river valley, but if you are staying at Martin Creek or Elk Lake it isn't too much more effort for some great scenery.

Campsites:  I stayed at sites directly adjacent to the Hoh river at the Olympus and Mt. Tom Creek sites.  The weather was great so I didn't have to worry about rain, and I had some solitude even though there were a number of groups camped in the meadows.  The sites on the river bars are quite exposed and can get hot during the day, but if you are out hiking that isn't much of a problem.  There are also Alder trees at some of the sites that provide some shade.  If you don't have a free-standing tent you probably won't have much luck getting stakes in the ground, but there are plenty of rocks around as an alternative.

Overall, a great hike and a the river valley is a good option for the early-season before we get access to the high country.

Thought I would take a few days and hike up to the Blue Glacier.  Have been to Glacier Meadows a few times before but the weather was not good enough to see the mountains or the glacier.  With perfect weather in the forecast for the next few days, what could go wrong.  The first 9 miles to Olympus Ranger station camp went off without any problems.  There were a few interesting stream crossings, one requiring quite the balancing act on a log, but being that the trail is virtually level I can't complain too much.  Nice quiet camping at Olympus camp.  Up early and off towards Elk Lake with a day pack.  A backpacker coming down yesterday said that there's a snow bridge/ large snow  patch just below the ladder that's right before Glacier Meadows.  He said he turned around there since he could hear loud running water underneath the snow and he did not want to become a statistic!  Smart move! I wanted to see how far I could get.  Well, just before I got to Elk Lake I ran into some major blow down!  I mean major! Lots of enormous trees down across the trail all jumbled together, branches everywhere, and on a steep slope besides!  I did my best to try and get through but after jumping from one large log to another and balancing as best I could, I still could not locate the way ahead.  So I headed back to Olympus Camp, hoping to come back again later in the summer. The trail crew sure has their work cut out for them!  Gonna take awhile though!

Did this trip as a 4-night backpack with my 13-year-old son and 72-year-old dad.  We chose it last minute when we decided to change destination because of the smoke.  We made it to the glacier, but this trail definitely packs a punch.

Itinerary:  
Day 1 - TH to Happy 4
Got on the trail at 3pm after picking up permits at the WIC in Port Angeles.  Easy, rainy hike to Happy 4.  BEWARE OF THE COYOTE!!  We'd heard about it and kept our food/smells in the bear can.  But it was still sniffing around my backpack, not 5 feet from where I was standing.  The people next to us had their food stolen a few minutes later when they'd turned their backs for just a few minutes.  The next day we met another group who had all of their food stolen.  Seriously...don't let your food out of your immediate control!  Campsite was lovely with just a few mosquitoes at dusk.

Day 2 - Happy 4 to Elk Lake
The hike felt significantly longer than the 9 advertised miles!  Saw an owl at the Guard Station that seemed really comfortable around hikers.  Look for it in the big trees over the field between the guard station and the river.  Had lunch at Lewis Meadow but were disappointed that the only water here was from the river.  Found water again a short way after the climb started.  We were all pooped when we got to the campground, and disappointed that Elk Lake isn't particularly nice.  Got water from nearby Martin Creek and hung out there for a while.  If I had it to do over, I would have gotten a site at Martin Creek.  A few mosquitoes at dusk and dawn.

Day 3 - Day hike to the Glacier
Dad was nursing a sore back and decided to pass on the hike to the Glacier.  Son and I headed up on our tired legs for another hike that seemed longer than advertised.  The ladder was intimidating but doable, and we saw a mama bear and cub at the bottom!  I'm glad we did this as a day hike as I wouldn't have enjoyed that ladder with a fully loaded pack.  I hadn't done much research on the trail and was surprised when we reached Glacier Meadow and couldn't see the glacier!  We took the advice of other hikers and headed up the Lateral trail.  It's a long, steep, rocky trail to the viewpoint with 2 false summits.  Last place for water is the pond on the way up.  But once you get up there...WOW!  We spent about an hour up there by ourselves.  My son remarked at how cool it was to get there just by hiking, no mountaineering required.  We were exhausted on the way down but kept ourselves entertained with peek-a-boo views over the valley and lots of huckleberries and blueberries.  Encountered a few people who attempted the hike to the glacier but couldn't make it.  Don't underestimate this hike.  

Day 4 - Elk Lake to Happy 4
We contemplated stopping at the Guard Station, but decided to go on to Happy 4.  All of our legs were super tired from the downhill hiking, but we made it.  Got great views of the coyote, who did some nice posing for us.  Beautiful sunset views over the river.  

Day 5 - Happy 4 to TH
We were really tired, so we took our time observing mosses, fungi, flowers, nurse logs and giant trees.  Seriously...so many interesting fungi!  Don't rush this trail.  There's just so much to see when you slow down.  

Overall it was an amazing adventure.  There was no part of this hike that we didn't enjoy!  OK...maybe we didn't love the unrelenting ups, but the views were worth it. 

To celebrate my birthday, I wanted to do a four-day, three-night backpacking trip, since I haven't done a long backpack in a few years (I think it's been three at this point). 

So, the week before, I planned and researched a variety of routes all over Washington, and based on air quality, fires, and trail closures, I finally settled on heading to Grand Valley and Deer Park. But that's not where this trip report is for because as I drove over on Sunday, the smoke was so thick in Port Angeles I couldn't see the Olympic mountains. 

That combined with the forecasted poor air quality (it was supposed to be the worst on Monday and Tuesday) made me rethink my original plan. I didn't have an alternate, low-elevation backup plan on the Peninsula, but somehow, the idea of going to Blue Glacier came to me. So I zipped to the Port Angeles WIC to make sure I could get a walk-up permit at the trailhead for a non-quota campsite.

Because I spent my first planned day of the backpacking trip refiguring my route, I headed to Salt Creek Recreation Area to spend the night, rather than drive all the way to the trailhead that evening. 

At this point, I knew I now had only three days and two nights to do a hike that was longer than any of the other routes I'd considered. I wasn't worried; I knew that it was mostly a river walk with some elevation gain to the glacier, but I thought I'd probably be fine. 

Well, I finished the hike, but a week later, my feet are still recovering. The trail is mostly flat, yes, but hiking nearly 13 miles on day one (starting at 12 30 pm) will wear out anyone's feet. Mine were in leather boots that didn't breathe, and it was HOT. I think it was in the mid-eighties each day of our hike, and I was carrying a pack that weighed more than 50lbs (I weighed it when I got back because I was so thrashed after the trip I had to know how much weight I was carrying). All that weight, the boots and the heat combined to make blisters on my little toes the first day, which made the rest of the hike far harder than I think it would have been otherwise. Other people have said respect the distance and I can't emphasize that enough. The trail is also rocky in some places, which can play havoc with feet even when it is flat. 

Luckily, along the way on Day 1, I met up with another backpacker who was heading to the same campsite. He was also solo, and so we fell in together, and talked the whole way to camp. The conversation and company was a good distraction from my feet, which were developing blisters quickly. 

We got to camp, soaked feet in the COLD river, had dinner, and zonked out. The next morning, we started later than intended. This was of more concern for my new friend, who wanted to get up to the glacier and back to his car that day. But he was fast -- I told him to go ahead of me once we got started hiking and he took off. The blisters and relentless uphill slowed me down. I stopped twice on the way to Elk Lake to dress my feet, then again at Elk Lake to readjust the bandages. Past Elk Lake, I slowed down because there were so. many. berries. Whoa. I felt like a little bear, walking along, stopping to munch berries every 10 feet. 

Eventually though, I stopped snacking and found a plodding pace, finally arriving at The Ladder. By this time it was pretty hot -- I think probably 1pm-ish, and smoke had restricted the views. There were some OK sights from the trail here, but I was having a hard time breathing and I was nervous about this ladder.  I'd heard a lot about it, from other hikers and trip reports and it was about as freaky as most people make it sound. There's a photo attached here, but you essentially climb down this ladder on a steep, slippery dirt face, holding onto a rope anchored onto a tree for support. I would have been absolutely terrified to do this with a full backpack on. I didn't see anyone doing it with packs, but the last camp before the glacier - Glacier Meadows - is right after the ladder, so you do have to cross the ladder with a pack if you're staying there. (on my way back I a woman carrying a pack with a TON of stuff on it passed me, heading for Glacier Meadows -- props to her, she looked cool as a cucumber and she'd just crossed that ladder). 

I also ran into my fellow solo backpacker at the Ladder. He was coming back from Glacier Meadows camp. We laughed at the ladder situation, he (presumably) because he'd crossed it successfully and didn't have to worry about it again, and me because I was already worked and couldn't believe this scary obstacle was so close to the end of the trail. Unfortunately, he hadn't gotten to the glacier itself, but I took a photo of him at the ladder overlook and then he took off for the trailhead. An 18-mile day for him in all. Ouch. 

I negotiated the ladder successfully (albeit very slowly), and in Glacier Meadows sat on the tent platform to eat my lunch. Already disappointed I hadn't made it to the glacier (at this point it was going on 5 hours that I'd been hiking and it's only 6 miles to the glacier from where I'd camped), I heaved my pack on to get the last leg in, and almost immediately ran into three guys coming down the trail who said, "Don't worry, it's all uphill from here." Thanks.

More helpfully, they mentioned that the lateral moraine was breathtaking, and it was absolutely worth the extra half mile of climbing. Always a glutton for punishment (and having told myself I wouldn't be back out here anytime soon), I headed for the lateral moraine. 

One of the attached photos is a talus field above Glacier Meadows camp. I took it on what felt like my tenth break in 20 minutes, and as I took it I said, out loud, "Where the *!@^& is this glacier??" The thing about this trail is that you can't see Blue Glacier until the very, last, steps. So literally less than a quarter mile from the end, you still can't see it. I was hot, tired, and embarrassed and frustrated at how slowly I'd hiked that day. I was even wondering if it would be worth it -- I had seen photos of it before so I knew what to expect. 

But as I crested the ridge for the Lateral Moraine view, I felt a cool breeze and the glacier took up essentially my whole field of vision. It was very impressive. There was only one other couple at the ridge with me, and I sat down behind a rock to let my feet breathe, my shoes dry out, and generally bask in the sun. 

After about an hour of that, more people began to show up and I finally packed up my things and headed back. It took me just about three hours to get back to camp, but even so, it was a long last mile. Despite it being 6 30 when I got back, I still took a break at the river before dinner. Another of campers stayed with me that night, two folks from Michigan who were nice company. They were both about as pooped as I was, which sort of made me feel better about the day. 

I did some stretching before going to sleep, which was essential -- I was much less sore the next morning. After packing up camp and refilling water, I set out for the trailhead. The blisters caught up to me at the Olympus Guard Station, where I spent a good 45 minutes snacking and fixing my feet up before getting a pretty solid 2 hours at ~3mph under my feet. Of course, that meant I took a bit of a break at the waterfall 3 miles from the trailhead, to nurse my feet again. I just didn't have it in me to keep up that pace another hour.

tl;dr -- I'm glad I did it, and that I can check it off my list. Next time (if I return) I'm wearing trail runners.