Did this trip as a 4-night backpack with my 13-year-old son and 72-year-old dad. We chose it last minute when we decided to change destination because of the smoke. We made it to the glacier, but this trail definitely packs a punch.
Itinerary:
Day 1 - TH to Happy 4
Got on the trail at 3pm after picking up permits at the WIC in Port Angeles. Easy, rainy hike to Happy 4. BEWARE OF THE COYOTE!! We'd heard about it and kept our food/smells in the bear can. But it was still sniffing around my backpack, not 5 feet from where I was standing. The people next to us had their food stolen a few minutes later when they'd turned their backs for just a few minutes. The next day we met another group who had all of their food stolen. Seriously...don't let your food out of your immediate control! Campsite was lovely with just a few mosquitoes at dusk.
Day 2 - Happy 4 to Elk Lake
The hike felt significantly longer than the 9 advertised miles! Saw an owl at the Guard Station that seemed really comfortable around hikers. Look for it in the big trees over the field between the guard station and the river. Had lunch at Lewis Meadow but were disappointed that the only water here was from the river. Found water again a short way after the climb started. We were all pooped when we got to the campground, and disappointed that Elk Lake isn't particularly nice. Got water from nearby Martin Creek and hung out there for a while. If I had it to do over, I would have gotten a site at Martin Creek. A few mosquitoes at dusk and dawn.
Day 3 - Day hike to the Glacier
Dad was nursing a sore back and decided to pass on the hike to the Glacier. Son and I headed up on our tired legs for another hike that seemed longer than advertised. The ladder was intimidating but doable, and we saw a mama bear and cub at the bottom! I'm glad we did this as a day hike as I wouldn't have enjoyed that ladder with a fully loaded pack. I hadn't done much research on the trail and was surprised when we reached Glacier Meadow and couldn't see the glacier! We took the advice of other hikers and headed up the Lateral trail. It's a long, steep, rocky trail to the viewpoint with 2 false summits. Last place for water is the pond on the way up. But once you get up there...WOW! We spent about an hour up there by ourselves. My son remarked at how cool it was to get there just by hiking, no mountaineering required. We were exhausted on the way down but kept ourselves entertained with peek-a-boo views over the valley and lots of huckleberries and blueberries. Encountered a few people who attempted the hike to the glacier but couldn't make it. Don't underestimate this hike.
Day 4 - Elk Lake to Happy 4
We contemplated stopping at the Guard Station, but decided to go on to Happy 4. All of our legs were super tired from the downhill hiking, but we made it. Got great views of the coyote, who did some nice posing for us. Beautiful sunset views over the river.
Day 5 - Happy 4 to TH
We were really tired, so we took our time observing mosses, fungi, flowers, nurse logs and giant trees. Seriously...so many interesting fungi! Don't rush this trail. There's just so much to see when you slow down.
Overall it was an amazing adventure. There was no part of this hike that we didn't enjoy! OK...maybe we didn't love the unrelenting ups, but the views were worth it.
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