What a treat to experience and explore this beautiful river valley. I took advantage of the beautiful weather this week to spend three nights in the Hoh Rainforest. I spent the first two nights at the Olympus Campground and the final night at Mt. Tom Creek. I attempted to day hike from Olympus Ranger Station to Blue Glacier on the second day but didn't make it past the ladder.
Permits: I went to the Wilderness Information Center (WIC) in Port Angeles to get my permit as I was under the impression that the Hoh River Valley was a "quota" area of the Park that required specific reservations at each camp and that were limited in number. After talking to the rangers and looking at information posted in camp, I realized the quota system on the Hoh River Trail only applies to Elk Lake and Glacier Meadows. They don't limit the number of backpackers at the other sites and you have a bit more flexibility if you want or need to stay at an alternative backcountry site. You can also self-register for non-quota sites at the WIC on the south side of the park, which doesn't open until the summer. This will save you some time if you are coming from Olympia/Portland.
Trail Conditions: The trail is in great shape through the first 12 miles. It looks like there were a lot of blowdowns over the winter but trail crews have actively cleared much of the trail. There is one major blowdown just before Martin Creek. Look for flagging across the creek to identify where the trail picks back up. As you climb beyond Elk Lake you will find some intermittent snow fields, but the trail is easy to follow and pick back up.
There are two steep chutes right before the ladder on the way to Glacier meadows. The first is just rock, but very steep so proceed with caution. The second is covered with snow and there is a small river running under the snow. I only had a light daypack on, but punched through the snow about 2-3 feet. Shortly after I reached the ladder and it was fully exposed (see the photo). It looked like the ladder was missing a rung or two, and a couple others were only partially connected to the rope. I decided to turn back as there was a much larger river running under the snowfield at the bottom of the ladder and I didn't want to risk it while hiking solo. I did hear from someone on my way down that they talked to two hikers who had successfully made it to the meadows the day before. I also ran into a few different groups that were planning on camping at the meadows, one of whom was planning on climbing Olympus. I wouldn't recommend trying to cross the snowfield below the ladder with a heavy pack right now, particularly as it will continue melting with the warmer weather.
The hike above Elk Lake is worth it just for the great views of Mt. Olympus and Mt. Tom. It is definitely a long day-hike from the river valley, but if you are staying at Martin Creek or Elk Lake it isn't too much more effort for some great scenery.
Campsites: I stayed at sites directly adjacent to the Hoh river at the Olympus and Mt. Tom Creek sites. The weather was great so I didn't have to worry about rain, and I had some solitude even though there were a number of groups camped in the meadows. The sites on the river bars are quite exposed and can get hot during the day, but if you are out hiking that isn't much of a problem. There are also Alder trees at some of the sites that provide some shade. If you don't have a free-standing tent you probably won't have much luck getting stakes in the ground, but there are plenty of rocks around as an alternative.
Overall, a great hike and a the river valley is a good option for the early-season before we get access to the high country.
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