We set off for Lake Ingalls in pursuit of peaking larch trees. With four days to explore we backpacked to Lake Ingalls, up to Stuart Pass, north along the Jack Creek Trail, and back south on the Van Epps and Lake Ann trails before returning along the Esmeralda Basin Trail. Our adventure included stunning views, a spectacular display of the Aurora Borealis, challenging travel through a burn area, a road walk, historical mines, and a riot of fall colors—plus a memorable traffic jam on our way out Sunday.
We began from the Esmeralda Trailhead on Thursday afternoon. Though cars were parked along the road, we secured a spot in the trailhead parking lot. The hike to Ingalls Pass was steep, gaining 2,350 feet over 3.2 miles along a rocky, sun-soaked trail. Upon reaching the pass, the larch trees greeted us in all their golden glory. We continued along the upper trail to our camping area, which had surprisingly few sites; many were closed for restoration. (Note: There are reportedly more options in Headlight Basin along the lower trail.)
Later that night we were rewarded with a breathtaking aurora display from approximately 3 to 4 AM.
After a stunning sunrise, we ascended to Lake Ingalls, scrambled along its west side, and up to Stuart Pass, where we were treated to panoramic views of the Ingalls and Jack Creek basins. As we descended, the forest floor was alive with the vibrant yellows and reds of fall foliage. However, we soon encountered the aftermath of the 2017 Jack Creek fire. Compared to other burned trails lacking maintenance, this area was relatively manageable. We lost the trail once and navigated through chest-high fireweed that released fluffy white tufts into the air and onto us.
Emerging from the burn area, we camped near the junction of the Jack Creek and Van Epps trails. Soon returning to the burn area, the ascent up the Van Epps Trail was more challenging. We lost the trail and weaved over, under, and around downed trees and thick brush. Finally, finding a trail out of the burn, we reached the Van Epps mining area, where we explored the historical site. Note: The portions of the Van Epps trail we did find did not closely follow the USGS/USFS map trail. At the north end, it was closer to the creek. Near the mine, it dropped to cross Van Epps Creek and we followed a gravel road up to the mine.
The road walk up to Van Epps pass provided a welcome break from the morning’s challenges. We detoured near the pass to an overlook with magnificent views and to the Benita Mine, where we encountered a group in Jeeps. Although the mine adit had a small opening, the water inside deterred us from attempting to squeeze through.
Once back on the Lake Ann Trail, we were surrounded by a lovely forest and a colorful understory. Soon, we arrived at the stunning Lake Ann, where larch trees lined the shores and an ideal campsite offered breathtaking views for both sunset and sunrise.
Leaving Lake Ann, we detoured to Fortune Creek Pass and scrambled up to a higher viewpoint (marked Tip Top mine - no mine in sight) with sweeping views down to Gallagher Head Lake and westward toward the Cascade Range.
The hike down was filled with frequent stops, as we pulled over to let the waves of uphill hikers pass by. Many appeared to be first-timers, curious about the elusive larches that only became visible upon reaching the pass above Lake Ann.
The drive back was an experience in itself. Cars lined the road for 1.5 miles from the trailhead, almost reaching De Roux Campground. We found ourselves stuck at one point as uphill cars met downhill traffic, and parked vehicles on both sides blocked our passage. Fortunately, it cleared up in about five minutes, and we were finally free to head home.
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