This hike is beautiful, and I don't know if it's not so popular or just late in the season, but we experienced an incredible feeling of remoteness and solitude for a relatively short hike. We got to the trailhead a little late (around noon maybe?) and there were only a few other cars in the lot. On the way in we passed two groups of day hikers and 1 group of backpackers, both on their way out. On the way out, we passed one group of day hikers on their way in, and their car was the only other car in the lot. So we truly were the only people out camping on the trail this weekend. I don't know if I've ever had that happen before.
The trail starts out level, then quickly you descend down "Little Hump." At 2.5 miles the trail forks, and to the left the trail is marked with logs across it.. I believe it goes down to the first campsite, but I didn't investigate. I saw several other single campsites along the river before Big Hump. This first segment of the trail is classic Olympic mossy rainforest, and was especially beautiful on Saturday when it was slightly rainy and foggy. It's also quite easy. Then.. you get to Big Hump. And that's not easy. I mean, it's totally doable, but this tight series of switchbacks will get your blood pumping. At the top, there's a rocky overlook with nice views of the surrounding peaks. Then.. you go down the other side of Big Hump. This segment of the trail is a bit more rugged... It is the site of a fire several years ago, so there are unstable trees and a few have fallen across the path. Nothing huge or hard to cross.
We decided to camp at the first campsite past Big Hump (before 5 mile camp). There's a spot right by the river big enough for maybe 3 groups, and we had it all to ourselves. So beautiful, and I loved listening to the water rush by at night. There were signs at the trailhead noting that park service does not recommend camping overnight anywhere between Big Hump and 10 mile camp due to the unstable trees. I definitely saw some that looked like they could be iffy in stormy or windy weather, so.. take heed. We didn't have the light or the energy to make it to 10 mile camp, so we just stayed anyway. After setting up camp, we wandered a little bit further to get some pictures, but not too much since it was getting dark.
Next morning we woke up early and headed back.. The far side of Big Hump is less strenuous, but you also have to get back up Little Hump to return to the car. So, a good workout in both directions.
When we got back to the car, since there was no one parked near us, I noticed that there was a LOT of windshield glass on the ground that other cars had been hiding the day before. I don't know how long it's been there (thankfully my car was fine..) but be aware and don't leave any valuables in your car!
One more note about permits.. Any of the camps before 10 mile, you don't need a permit. 10 mile camp and past are in Olympic National Park, so you do need a permit. You don't need to visit the ranger station, though. Just fill a permit out at the trailhead and there's an envelope you take to mail payment later.
Get out there and enjoy before the snows come!

Comments
What a helpful trip report. Thank you!
Posted by:
Loren Drummond on Sep 25, 2018 11:58 AM