I did this hike last week. I'd like to point out that the wildflowers in Spider Meadows are probably nearing the end of their season. Higher up the flowers were peaking. This was part of a several day trip which involved Spider Meadows, Spider Gap, Upper Lyman Lake, Lyman Lake, and Cloudy Pass.
Spider Meadows is a a relatively easy 5.6 mile one way hike with about 1300 feet of elevation gain according to Maps.me. Seems about right. This was my second time up here. Took me 1.5 and 1.75 hours to reach the meadow with an overnight pack each time. The road is relatively easy to drive until the Phelps Basin Trail-head turnoff. This last two miles or so is quite challenging and would recommend AWD at least.
The trail cuts through a valley mostly following a creek and gently going uphill with minimal switchbacks and little wasted elevation gain. Bugs were a problem but no unbearable. Bug spray for sure but mosquito nets not needed. There are several spots to stop and camp along the way if you don't want to go all the way in one shot. Plenty of campsites available despite a ton of cars in the parking lot and passing quite a few people on the trail.
The meadow itself is large and spacious with several great campsites around it and several more just past it if you wish to keep going beyond. Most of the campsites have fire rings made of rocks. So far as I know fires are permitted. Its below 5000 feet. Some of them have good trees to hang food. There is no official bear hang or bear box here. I wish Washington would put some up at popular spots like this. BC has them at many of their popular spots and it really helps as many people don't know how to do a proper bear hang or want to carry a bear canister.
The meadow is stunning. Highly recommends spending a night here. After a night here in the meadow we continued on up to Spider Gap. This involves about 2400 feet more of elevation gain over a much shorter distance. About a mile of meandering through the meadow and subsequent smaller valley meadows before a steep change in pace in the trail. Here the Phelps Basin trail splits to the right and the well maintained though unofficial trail up to Spider Glacier begins.
The trail is quite steep but not hard to hike on or follow. It switchbacks a few times and before long you are looking down over Spider Meadow. About half way over the pass you come to what people often call High Camp. There are at least three campsites here right before the glacier. No fires permitted at this altitude but it looks like a lovely place to camp.
After this the trail pretty much ends and you just start walking up what is left of Spider Glacier. Not a bad climb at all. We did it in normal shoes without any special gear. Some people wore micro spikes. There were no obvious crevasses to be worried about but could here some water flowing underneath.
At the top of the pass there is no snow or ice. Looking back roughly South you can see Spider Glacier that you just climbed. Turning North you overlook the Upper Lyman Lake (really lakes) and beyond that can just make out Lyman Lake (lower). These beautiful milky blue lakes are colored by the Lyman Glacier which is split into three parts as far as I can tell. One of them is the path of decent. This was similar to climbing Spider Glacier and we had no difficulty. I will point out that on the way out the next day an overnight freeze had made Lyman Glacier much more slick and challenging. Micro-spikes would have been helpful but were still not necessary. I saw families with children doing it without gear. Still don't assume that because others did it, you can do it without trouble. Know your own limits and skills and use caution.
I'm saving Lyman Lakes for another report as I'd like to write a detailed report with good photos. Spider Gap could be done in one day (18ish miles round trip from parking lot with 3700 feet elevation gain). Or it could be done as a day hike from any of the campsites in Spider Meadows. The views from the top are excellent.
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