This was a Mountaineers overnight scramble to summit two peaks on the MRNP 100 Peaks list: Old Desolate and Mineral Mountain. Our route started at the Carbon River Entrance and followed the Carbon River Trail and Wonderland Trail to the backcountry near Moraine Park, returning the same way. Our original plan was to setup camp and summit one peak the first day, then summit the second peak the following day. However, due to problems encountered on the Carbon River (explained below), it took much longer than expected and we were late to camp. We successfully completed both summits the second day.
We arrived at the Carbon River Ranger Station at 7:30 AM upon opening to obtain our backcountry permit for the Old Desolate wilderness zone (XOLD). We used bikes to travel the Carbon River Trail to Ipsut Creek campground. We encountered the same difficulties mentioned in other trip reports.
During planning, the MRNP Trail Conditions page showed the Carbon Glacier Trail as "Crossing is not advised". However, the ranger told us there was a temporary log in place without a handrail. We expected difficulty at the lower Carbon River crossing. However, there is a second washout area about halfway between Ipsut Pass and the Carbon River Lower Crossing that was totally unexpected. When headed in the direction toward Mystic Lake, there is an obvious temporary log near the trail. However, it was unclear how to get back to the trail on the southern side. In the middle of the open riverbed area, we found a large log without a handrail (see photo). This is not for the timid. You should be comfortable with log crossings because the river flow beneath is fast and significant. We were able to scramble back to the trail. Unknown to us, there was actually another temporary log with handrail closer to the first log. This log is tilted and shown in previous trip reports. On the second day when returning in the direction of Ipsut Creek, the trail suddenly ends at the tilted log. However, it was late in the afternoon and the flow rate was much higher than the previous morning. It was actually flowing across the top of the log. We deemed it too unsafe, along with the other log from the previous day. We ended up bushwhacking around the washout area on the southern side. The bushwhack was fairly difficult through dense brush and over large fallen trees.
Further up, at the lower creek crossing, we missed the sign to cross the Carbon River and followed the closed trail for a bit until being cliffed out, so we had to return to the lower crossing. From a distance we spotted a temporary log, but it was unclear after crossing so we ended up bushwhacking to get back to the Wonderland Trail on the north side. On the second day returning, it was much more obvious how to get across. They currently have pink flags blazing how to get across. There are several temporary logs with wire handrails that make this an easy crossing now. Just realize that you have to deviate west of where the original lower creek crossing was. Just follow the pink flags and you'll be fine.
The rest of the trail was normal. There was solid snow cover in the upper elevations before Moraine Park, but then snow free at Moraine Park with minor patches to Mystic Lake. We encountered two large bears in this area. One was a brown cinnamon color bear.
We followed the recommend route in the 100 Peaks guidebook to summit Old Desolate. First the wooded hillside to the flat open meadow which was covered in firn snow. We used crampons here, which was also required on the steep snowfield up toward the saddle. To descend, we chose another route with scree and talus back toward the open meadow. Mineral Mountain was easier than Old Desolate. We encountered some snowy areas, but nothing requiring traction devices. Again, we followed the recommended route.
The second day was very strenuous doing both summits, then having to hike and bike all the way back to Carbon River Entrance. Despite that, it was a fantastic trip with great friends and amazing views.
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