The Enchantments — Wednesday, Oct. 5, 2022

The Enchantments are beautiful. They are raw, dramatic, and stark. However, I want to be honest, this hike is not for inexperienced hikers. I have been backpacking for 56 years (yes, a 74 year old but in very good shape), and finally I bagged a permit. (I should have gone when younger.) I have hiked hundreds of trails, and this one is in the top ten of hard ones I have done. (I  am a former climber; I am talking about hiking in this instance.)

I entered from the Snow Lakes trailhead. The trail to the Upper Snow Lake at which I camped for the night was a steady uphill, but a very normal trail, rocky in places, in forest often, and a multitude of great views. The initial set of switchbacks gain about 800 feet, and then you follow along Snow Creek. There are a couple of talus slopes to cross, but usually minimal sun exposure. You follow along the beautiful Snow Creek with frequent places to camp. On the entire trip, no worries about water.

 At Nada Lake the spigot was open to provide water to the drainage below. It is a beautiful lake with many camp spots as well.

The water level of Upper Snow Lake was extremely low. Those camping along the lakeshore often camped on the beach and had to perilously go down to the water. Most chose to camp at the west end of the lake and get water from the stream entering the lake. (Be aware that this time of year, each year, the water level may be very low. See picture.)

The hardest part of the hike begins with a 1.4 mile steep rise to the plateau above and 1400 foot elevation gain (from about 5400 at the lake to about 6800 at Lake Viviane). The trail is steep, rocky, and sometimes hard to follow; watch for the cairns to help you find the way. Part of the time it is the same as a mountaineering alpine scramble trip.  It took my old body 2.5 hours to go up this distance to Lake Viviane. Even younger people have to slow down on this steep stretch. (When younger I think I could have shaved an hour off this time.)  Luckily I day hiked from my spot at Upper Snow Lake, so only carried a day pack. A full pack would have made it harder.

Then it gets harder for short distances. Especially from Lake Vivian to Leprechaun Lake  the trail is hard to find and clearly more of an alpine scramble. Even with cairns it still requires some looking around to find the way over the granite outcroppings. At one point you need to climb along the rock face and go around the corner to the not yet visible rebar anchored in the granite to help you get up and on the granite outcropping. The frequent exposure on parts of the trail means if you are afraid of heights, then this hike may not be for you. I saw a number of people freaking out. They got through it, but, they were very surprised by the unknown nature of this hike. Plus they were going to have to go back down. This is why I am being more honest than most. I think almost all entries overlook the challenges of this hike. At my age, I have no need to do so. I would worry if someone tried to do the difficult sections in the dark or if slippery.

For the next few miles the trail goes up and over granite outcroppings and requires careful placement of your feet on the rocks, so you do not fall; other times it is along the multitude of lakes with easy tread. I got to Inspiration Lake and went up the ridge above (about 7200-7300 feet) for many great views of the plateau.

Then back down to Upper Snow Lake for a full day of hiking, arriving by sundown. The hike out the next day was uneventful, except for the smoke from the valley below. Fortunately, the smoke was not at the Core plateau above.

The Enchantments are beautiful and Core unique and dramatic. The Larches were awesome at this time of year. There are many other places in the Cascades though that are just as beautiful but different, reached by less  strenuous effort (Spider Meadow and Spider Gap, Image Lake, Cutthroat Pass, etc.) for those who do not obtain a permit or want to avoid the occasional scramble.