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Trip Report

Bedal Peak — Sunday, Jan. 12, 2025

North Cascades > Mountain Loop Highway
Sloan from summit of Bedal

Mountain Loop Highway was the typical medium sized pot holes as always. One tree blocks the FS 4096 (Lower Bedal Road) at 1490'. Perhaps 24" in diameter.

Faint Trail begins here: 48.08505, -121.38129

The route involves skilled navigation as the trail often disappears and reappears. Despite a good bit of flagging it is hard to follow. And even harder by headlamp.

There is a cliff band the faint climbers trail crosses at 5050' here: 48.07681, -121.36093. This cliff band led to a previous failure attempt by my partner in winter conditions. However, we found a better way for winter ascents that significantly reduces exposure by gaining the overlap at 4540' here: 48.07962, -121.36013. I am not sure if would make a difference in absence of snow.

Once above 5400' it is more choose your own adventure/path of least resistance. We choose the ramp to the summit on the NE side. Due to snow instability we opted to rope up and use pickets for the final 75'. Wind loading was mostly on wester aspects.

Snowline at 3000', floatation at 3500'. We were on snowshoes, but to note there is nothing worth riding below 4200'.

Exceptional views of Sloan and Glacier Peak. I wouldn't suggest this one to anyone who doesn't already have a few screws loose.

Protecting the popping snow for the last 75'
Glacier Peak at sunset
Baker - White Chuck - Pugh
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Comments

Added your Instagram. Love this stuff, took an alpinism 1 course and never can find people to do things like this with. Might be going solo and just stop when I feel uncomfortable. Love the photos and nice trip!

Posted by:


Onemanwolfpack on Jan 14, 2025 01:17 PM

Thanks! And great you are getting into alpinism! PNW Peak Baggers Facebook group has a chat group that is great for finding partners if you are having trouble. Always better to have a partner.

And then general friendly disclaimer for people I don't know, I don't recommend alpine travel in the winter without an AIARE education. Don't know what ya don't know.

It is a beautiful area. Have fun! Make safe decisions ❤️

Posted by:


DerrickW on Jan 14, 2025 02:24 PM