Pete Lake, Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) Section J - Snoqualmie Pass to Stevens Pass & Cathedral Rock — Friday, Aug. 28, 2020

I did a three day, two night backpack in the middle portion of Section J (Snoqualmie to Stevens), coming in from the Pete Lake trail (6 miles to PCT), hiking the PCT northbound from Lemah Meadows to Cathedral Rock, then exiting via the Cathedral Pass/Squaw Lake trail (5 miles) to Tuqualah Meadows/Hyas Lake trailhead. This was about 23 miles of PCT and 11 miles of approach/return. Berries were out, bugs were, generally, not. A few mosquitoes here and there. 

Day 1: Family day hiked to Pete Lake with me, then I continued up the 2 miles to the PCT. Rather than tackle the hot, sunny, five mile ascent up Escondido in late afternoon I camped at Lemah Meadows. There are several campsites very near each other, I took the one just slightly furthest north and it was a fabulous site with Lemah Creek adjacent, good tent sites and a great view of Lemah Mountain. Joined later in the evening by another hiker and his two sweet dogs. Only about 6 or 7 miles for the day.

Day 2: Headed up the now-shady Escondido Ridge, which climbs 2500 feet in about 5.5 miles. Fantastic views west to Lemah, The first water is a gorgeous little rock-bound lake with campsites where I refilled my water. I heard from a few hikers that this lake had some biting flies and mosquitoes but not mid-day when I was there. From partway up the ascent all along the ridge I did not encounter any other hikers for 3 hours, a rarity on the PCT and probably partly because there are relatively few through hikers this year. After the first tarn there are huge views of Summit Chief, Little Big Chief, and Lemah. The trail swings around past viewpoints and a couple small ponds (no camping allowed though), then heads to the north side of the ridge and begins the looooong descent to Waptus Lake, partway down just before the start of the Waptus Valley views is a meadow area with little treed knobs for camps, but marginal to no water (there was a trickle across the trail a short bit before). The descent to Waptus seems to take forever though there are some very nice viewpoints. Camped with/near some other hikers at Waptus River, where there is a nice bridge and dramatic views to the surrounding mountains like Bears Breast. Total mileage for the day was 13.

Day 3: Continued north on the PCT gradual ascent along Waptus – this is totally forested and there are NO views of the lake! If I didn’t have a pretty long day ahead of me I would have gone down to the lake either on the parallel trail or at the Waptus Lake access trail where Spade Lake trail intersects the PCT. The trail turns north into Spinola Creek and ascends via a couple steeper sections to Deep Lake, great for dipping and a long break. Then the 1100 foot ascent to Cathedral Pass. Then left the PCT, took a right on the Cathedral Pass trail back down the 4.9 miles to Tuquala Meadows trailhead, being passed by several parties who had climbed Mt. Daniels. Note that there is a very pretty pond only about five minute walk down the Cathedral Pass trail from the PCT, if you are looking to camp in that area. Total mileage for the day: 14.6.