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Ape Canyon

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A mile-wide lahar scoured portions of the Muddy River valley, while other parts of the canyon offer you features created by eons of erosion from floods and long-forgotten mudflows. The trail takes you in and out of several small side basins, each providing a unique thrill. Some are filled with wildflowers and ferns. Others are rich woodlands. All are alive with birdsong and critter activity.

From the trailhead, the route starts out fairly level, moving up alongside the massive mudflow that swept the Muddy River. You'll find lots of greenery and wildflowers along the first mile, before coming to a nice viewpoint looking out over the lahar basin to the volcano that spawned it.

From here, the trail climbs slowly but steadily into a lush stand of ancient forest. For nearly 2 miles, you'll climb through this rich woodland, marveling at the massive old Douglas-firs that line the trail.

At more than 3 miles out, the trail breaks out onto the ridgetop, providing long, open views down into Ape Canyon and up onto East Dome on the flank of Mount St. Helens. These views continue for the remainder of the climb up the ridgeline.

At 5.5 miles, the trail intercepts the Loowit Trail just below East Dome. Turn around here.
Driving Directions:

From Cougar, drive east on Forest Road 90 just 1 mile beyond the Swift Dam, and turn left (north) onto FR 83. Drive about 11.8 miles to the trailhead on the left, found approximately 0.25 mile before reaching the road's end at the Lava Canyon Trailhead.

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Recent Trip Reports

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There are 16 trip reports for this hike. See all trip reports for this hike.
Ape Canyon — May 04, 2013 — Luv2Climb
Day hike
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LOST: Orange and grey backpack with lots of stuff in it left on Mt. St. Helens. The bag was left aro...
LOST: Orange and grey backpack with lots of stuff in it left on Mt. St. Helens. The bag was left around 6600 ft near the last rock outcropping before the final push. If you found or have it, please call me at 206.856.4578. I will come wherever you are to pick it up. Thank you!
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Ape Caves, Ape Canyon — Sep 02, 2012 — Ydain
Day hike
Issues: Mud/Rockslide | No water source
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This was our first trip to the Ape Caves though I'd been wanting to go for quite some time. We got t...
This was our first trip to the Ape Caves though I'd been wanting to go for quite some time. We got there at 11 and the parking lots were already full and ppl were parking down the road so the cave was already quite highly populated. The other groups were all polite, the slower ppl letting us pass just as we let the faster folks pass us. We hiked upper and started at the entrance near the interpretive center and worked our way up.

We were prepared with jackets, gloves, sturdy boots, headlamps & spare flashlights. Batteries are good to bring too as we ran into more than one person whose batteries had died and were relying on others for light. Gave most of our spares out but withheld one set for ourselves.

I picked up the previously mentioned beer cans along the way, and my pack was full of trash by the time I got to the end. I'm surprised that with as many rangers as I saw around the interpretive center they didn't assign one to make a clean up run through the place on a daily basis. Maybe check for bodies along the way! I can't believe how many people were dragging their young children through the upper cave which is clearly marked as being not recommended for young children.

Once I made it through there was a good-sized crowd milling around the head of the stairway to climb out. No one wanted to come down, they just wanted to stand there and look into the cave, take pictures, etc. Would be nice if people would realize that the people coming out of the cave have been in the dark for 2-4 hours and give them a little room to climb out without having to squeeze by.

As much fun as I had, this place is dangerous. You will be climbing over rocks and boulders through pitch blackness for a mile and a half or 2-4 hours depending on your speed. There are lots of cracks and crevices just waiting for a foot or leg to slip into and twist or break. I can't imagine how many rescues they must carry out of here each year. My husband had to gently coax one child out of a complete and total screaming meltdown at the foot of the second big climb. He was terrified and crying and did not want to go any further, but had already passed the 8 ft wall and couldn't go back either. People were backed up in both directions waiting and this poor kid was just stuck. I would NOT recommend this hike for children under 12 and even then only if they're relatively athletic kids.
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Ape Canyon — Aug 09, 2012 — emikek
Day hike
Features: Wildflowers blooming
Issues: No water source
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I hiked the Ape Canyon Trail up to the junction with the Loowit Trail this past week. The first part...
I hiked the Ape Canyon Trail up to the junction with the Loowit Trail this past week. The first part was in the forest among majestic Douglas Fir. Beautiful. Large, tall, and straight. They seemed to go up forever. Soon, there were views of Mt. Rainier, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Hood. Mt. St. Helen's was in your face. Near the destination I walked through wildflowers whose fragrance was very pleasant.

The road to the trail head is excellent. The trail itself was in great shape. I did not see any others on the trail on the way up. I did meet one on a mountain bike near the junction, two hikers with a dog and another on a mountain bike on the way down. I only noticed a few bugs. One of the mountain bikers reported seeing two elk.

A great hike.

 
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Ape Canyon — Jul 21, 2012 — Jay L
Day hike
Features: Wildflowers blooming
Issues: Bugs
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After reading this as a hike of the week I wanted to check it out, and get out of my normal North Ca...
After reading this as a hike of the week I wanted to check it out, and get out of my normal North Cascades hiking. I found the trail fairly easy with an easy elevation gain. Of course after Pugh, Lookout Mt., and Gothic Basin, I find everything else fairly easy. Many wildflowers are blooming on this hike. After a steady elevation gain thru the forest I broke out into the open with a spectacular view of the mountain. The clouds had not completly burned off, so I could not see Adams or the top of Mt. St. Helens, but a great hike all the same. I could see when its hot your very exposed, would recomend lots of fluilds and sunscreen. On the way back down I experienced something new, a steady stream of cyclists. Never experienced this before, so I don't know what the trail etiquette is. Most were very nice and polite, but for some I was an annoyance on the trail. I must say that dodging bicycles every 5 minutes on the way back down took away from my hiking experience. I want to share the outdoors with everyone, but I should be able to hike without being a burden to someone on a bicycle. After, I drove to Windy Ridge for photos and scout some more hikes.
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Ape Canyon — Jul 20, 2012 — Sanderee
Overnight
Features: Wildflowers blooming
Issues: No water source
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Friday evening I hiked up the Ape Canyon trail at Mount Saint Helens. The weather forecasters didn't...
Friday evening I hiked up the Ape Canyon trail at Mount Saint Helens. The weather forecasters didn't really come through for me, but it was beautiful hiking through mist-shrouded trees.

 
The trail climbs the valley along the tree-covered ridges with overgrown sections of fern, salmonberry and vine maple.
     

The Mountain did show itself in the early morning before going back behind clouds. I saw many flowers in bloom, including lupine, partridge foot, tiger lilies, paintbrush, pearly everlasting, yarrow, queens cup, anemone, and penstemon. The lupines, both the taller and short dusty alpine varieties were wonderfully fragrant; and hummingbirds buzzed me next morning for standing too near their patch of paintbrush.


I saw marmot, ground squirrels, grouse, and a small toad among the flowers - who seemed to be after a breakfast of ants.
     

I did get rained on a bit as I set up my tent for the night, but things were cozy and dry inside. My mini aussie didn't go with me, as I'd read dogs are not allowed; but Saturday I saw many dogs on the trail. Probably best that she stayed home as the mountain bikers, though polite and welcomed by me, come around the corners quickly and my dog may have had trouble staying out of the way on the narrow trail.

I had planned to hike the Plains of Abraham loop, but didn't come across a water source -- so I did a few miles in either direction before heading back to the car.

The trails and parking lots are really busy at MSH, probably because Rainier is still melting out -- I ran across a number of groups doing the Loowit trail, all around the mountain.

One trio of young guys said that was their plan 'if it doesn't kill us.' Uphill with a heavy backpack can feel that way. But downhill? Or dinking around the flower meadows with a camera? I'm euphoric and grinning -- I love being out there with the beauty of nature all around me.
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Ape Canyon Susan Saul.jpg
Ape Canyon. Photo by Susan Saul.
Location
Ape Canyon (#234)
South Cascades -- Mt. St. Helens
USFS Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument
Statistics
Roundtrip 11.0 miles
Elevation Gain 1300 ft
Highest Point 2800 ft
Features
Old growth
Wildflowers/Meadows
Mountain views
Wildlife
User info
Northwest Forest Pass required
Guidebooks & Maps
South Cascades
Green Trails No. 364 Mount St. Helens

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Note: the description and driving directions for this Mountaineers Books entry are copyrighted and can't be changed.

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46.1646666667 -122.092116667
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