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Cape Disappointment State Park

 

Featured In: Day Hiking: Olympic Peninsula, by Craig Romano.
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Take the long and scenic way to Cape Disappointment's North Head Lighthouse. Through a salt-sprayed maritime forest, trace part of Captain Clark's hike on the Long Beach Peninsula. From the high headland that houses the 1898 lighthouse, take in breathtaking views that include thundering waves, windswept dunes, and scores of shorebirds skimming the crashing surf.

There are over 6.5 miles of hiking trails in 1884-acre Cape Disappointment State Park. Once home to Fort Canby, a military reservation established in 1852 (before Washington statehood), the state park was created in the 1950s. Most of its trails are short. All are scenic. The 1.8-mile North Head Trail is the longest, traversing a moisture-dripping old-growth Sitka spruce forest and offering spectacular ocean views along the way. It ties into several other trails, allowing for extended explorations.

The trail to North Head starts through a flat marshy area before heading up onto a small rugged ridge. When Lewis and Clark visited this area, the ridge was a headland protruding into the Pacific. After the North Jetty was built in 1917, this marshy forested area formed through accretion (trapped sand and silt accumulation). The land mass and beaches of Cape Disappointment are growing (and they say land doesn't grow!).

On what can be a muddy trail, climb above the old coastline on this former headland. Giant Sitka spruces keep you well-shaded, while gaps in the forest canopy offer splendid views down to the "new"beach. In 1.8 miles from the trailhead, come to a parking lot. (Yes, you could have driven to this point-but why? Exercise and nature are good for your body and soul!)

Now hike the 0.3-mile trail down to the North Head Lighthouse for one of the finest maritime settings in all of Washington. Return the way you came.
Driving Directions:

From Kelso follow State Route 4 west for 56 miles to Naselle. Turn left (south) on SR 401, proceeding 12 miles to US 101 at the Astoria-Megler Bridge. Continue on US 101 for 11 miles to Ilwaco and the junction of SR 100. Follow SR 100 (it's a loop, bear left) to Cape Disappointment State Park, and in 2 miles turn left into the park. Drive 0.5 mile to a four-way stop and turn right. Pass the entrance station, and in 0.25 mile turn right again. In 0.4 mile come to the McKenzie Head trailhead and park here.

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Note: the description and driving directions for this Mountaineers Books entry are copyrighted and can't be changed.

Recent Trip Reports

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There are 5 trip reports for this hike.
Cape Disappointment State Park — Dec 02, 2011 — Weluv2hike.
Day hike
Issues: Mudholes | Water on trail
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Went to both light houses. We did 4 mile rt to the first light house. We had the hike all...
Went to both light houses. We did 4 mile rt to the first light house. We had the hike all to ourselves. The trail is a bit muddy, the hike was great and the views towards the end of the hike were great. The weather was awesome too. We also did another 1mile rt trip walk to another light house in the park, a few people on this hike.
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Cape Disappointment State Park — Jun 04, 2011 — JHPearce
Day hike
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After a Memorial Day weekend spent backpacking with sideways snow and partially frozen lakes in the Southern Cascades, warmer weather...
After a Memorial Day weekend spent backpacking with sideways snow and partially frozen lakes in the Southern Cascades, warmer weather and sunshine were in order. So I took the lady and pup to Cape Disappointment State Park for the weekend. Don’t let Lewis and Clark’s name for this place fool you—it’s a lovely spot and one of the few places along the WA-state coastline where dogs are welcome. There are ample campsites, too; we made reservations online and our spot was waiting for us.

Left the city Friday after rush hour knowing we’d be setting up camp in the dark. Many others seemed to be on the same track. After our tent was pitched, we took a short stroll along the beach. The stars overhead and ever-vigilant lighthouse rays illuminated the shore.

The next day, a yummy Dutch oven breakfast provided fuel for an adventure-filled trek to the Cape Disappointment North Head Lighthouse. While you can drive to the lighthouse, our legs were aching for some hiking. We left our campsite and headed south via the state park roadway, caught up with the Discovery Trail and headed north. The warning signs are correct; this portion of the trail is indeed muddy. That said, we were in beach-bum attire and had no trouble squishing our way through the sodden trail in our Chaco sandals. These lush lowland marshes are dense with vegetation and the pungent aroma of seawater. Bugs were not too bad, although in a couple of spots it’s best to keep moving.

Beyond the sea-level estuaries, the trail quickly tacks up slope. Near the crest of the trail, there is an impressive wooden elevated trail and staircase system that protects a small confluence along the ridge tops. The water runs clear and ferns, protected from hikers’ tracks, are able to flourish. Kudos to the team that built this structure.

To my surprise, this short jaunt offered considerable solitude—along the trail itself, anyway. We only encountered one other hiking party (headed southbound from the lighthouse). After climbing a few hundred feet, soon we were atop the coastal bluffs. Venturing out of the tree line, our Seattle skin was soon sun-kissed.

The wind-battered bluff’s peekaboo views reveal a spectacular view of the coastline looking southward. As for the main attraction, there were plenty of folks who’d arrived at the lighthouse via their autos, but they didn’t detract from the beauty of the lighthouse itself or the panoramic views surrounding its perch.

Rather than retracing our steps through the muck of the lowland marshes, we headed back via a small way/game trail just south of the lighthouse that conveniently cuts back down to the campsites. The route is steep, but in good condition and with just a couple of blow-downs to hurdle.

Back at camp, we relaxed in our hammock and then played Frisbee on the beach with the pup. Later in the day, we went out to the dunes and gawked at the mouth of the mighty Columbia River. It was very, very windy and I’m quite certain I’ll be picking out sand from places I didn’t know I had for a while. All in all, it was an awesome weekend on the coast.
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Cape Disappointment State Park — Jan 22, 2011 — WeaveFam
Day hike
Issues: Mud/Rockslide | Mudholes | Water on trail
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Even though this hike was very muddy there is plenty a towering old growth trees and a nice coastal forest...
Even though this hike was very muddy there is plenty a towering old growth trees and a nice coastal forest feel. It was an easy hike to accomplish with our 7 month old daughter and keep her within her feeding schedule. Most of the hike is through the woods with views of the Pacific at the end of the hike near the light house.
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Cape Disappointment State Park — May 22, 2010 — Tim Van Beek
Day hike
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WTA just completed a great week improving this interesting trail that connects the North Head lighthouse with the main campground....
WTA just completed a great week improving this interesting trail that connects the North Head lighthouse with the main campground. This is the 3rd year we have had Volunteer Vacations at Cape Disappointment. This lovely trail takes users through a Coastal Forest, with views out to waves crashing on the beach. There is an Osprey nest perched on a tree top not even a ½ mile from the trailhead, You can find madrone, spruce, hemlock and Douglas fir trees, salal, rhododendrons and a fine assortment of ferns.

The crew has been working on reducing the grade in places, creating safe creek crossings, building puncheon through chronic wet spots and laying gravel down to improve tractions. WTA has 2 more Volunteer Vacations planned this year, as well as a few day trips also.

Take the time to drive down to the Cape (it’s only 3 ½ hours from Seattle) and check out this challenging trail, and see what our crews have been up to.
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Cape Disappointment State Park — Nov 25, 2005 — Bobn'Susie
Day hike
Issues: Clogged drainage | Mudholes | Water on trail | Overgrown
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We drove down to the Long Beach peninsula for Thanksgiving and after our meal, we needed a walk. Friday morning...

We drove down to the Long Beach peninsula for Thanksgiving and after our meal, we needed a walk. Friday morning we drove to Beards Hollow and walked out to the beach to look at the southern end of the 'long' beach. A very powerful place of rocks and currents and sea birds and crashing waves. An incoming tide prevented us from getting very far. We went back to the trailhead and then climbed the 1.4 mile trail up to the North Head lighthouse. We arrived just in time for a break from the rain and a good view of the park headland below. We walked past the lighthouse and returned on the Keepers trail to the Beards Hollow trail. We had to watch our step to avoid stepping on the salamanders on the trail...also saw frogs and deer in the pristine coastal sitka spruce forest.

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cape disappointment bobnsusie.jpg
Lighthouse at Cape Disappointment State Park. Photo by Bobn'Susie.
WTA worked here!
2010, 2011
Location
Olympics -- SW Washington
Cape Disappointment State Park
Statistics
Roundtrip 4.2 miles
Elevation Gain 300 ft
Highest Point 250 ft
Features
Coast
Wildlife
User info
Good for kids
Dogs allowed on leash
Discover Pass required
Guidebooks & Maps
Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula (Romano - Mountaineers Books)
Best Hikes with Kids: Western Washington & the Cascades (Burton - Mountaineers Books)
USGS Cape Disappointment

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Note: the description and driving directions for this Mountaineers Books entry are copyrighted and can't be changed.

Map it
Red Marker Cape Disappointment State Park
46.2856 -124.063266667
  • Youth Vacations 2012
  • Youth Vacations 2010
  • Volunteer Vacations 2011
  • Volunteer Vacations 2010
  • State Park
  • Trail Work 2011
(46.2856, -124.0633) Open in new window
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