Big Heart Lake. Photo by Joe Buoy.

Tucked in tight folds, big basins, and rocky cirques high above the West Fork Foss River are a bevy of big, beautiful alpine lakes-one of the highest concentrations of alpine lakes in the entire Alpine Lakes Wilderness, actually. You can spend days here, and many do, but day hiking to several of these aquatic gems isn't out of the question. Just prepare for a tough slog over rough terrain. And prepare for some of the finest alpine scenery this side of Stevens Pass.

How many of the five lakes lying along this trail you choose to visit will depend on your stamina and determination. While this hike isn't the longest in this book, nor does it involve the most elevation gain, it does rank among the toughest. Much of the way is over rock-lots of rock. And much of the climb comes at once in a brushy section fully exposed to the sun. Making matters worse, the first mile of this trail is absolutely awful. It involves stumbling over what in essence is a dry (or not) rocky streambed. But if you can psych yourself up to get up and over these obstacles, you're in for a real treat. These lakes are among the biggest and most beautiful within the entire 393,360-acre Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

Immediately entering wilderness, the trail begins in a lush mossy river bottomland. In the autumn of 2006 the trail became a river channel when the West Fork Foss flooded. Tread damage was extensive, and this part of the trail is a real mess. Hopefully by 2010 the Forest Service will have received funding and the Washington Trails Association will have assembled a work team to help rehabilitate this popular path.

In 0.5 mile come to what may be a tricky or impossible river crossing. The floods of '06 destroyed a bridge here. In the summer of 2008, a log was in place across the main river channel, allowing safe passage-but this could change. Once across, continue upvalley, passing some of the largest trees this side of the redwoods. Carefully negotiate through a recent rock-slide area ("the fall of 2006!"), and at 1.5 miles come to Trout Lake (elev. 2000 ft). A shallow lake set amid cliffs and graced with groves of hemlock, it's a popular backpacking destination among anglers and families with children.

Beyond Trout, trail damage is minimal, but the going gets tough. Paralleling a crashing side creek, the trail furiously climbs over rock and brushy slopes out of the deep valley. Following the waterway upward, you'll soon come to a spectacular waterfall. Then, angling right, the trail works its way over the headwall from whence all that water rages. Now in cool forest of yellow cedar and mountain hemlock, carefully cross a side creek on a snow-damaged bridge and continue upward at a saner grade.

At 3.5 miles reach a junction (elev. 3850 ft). The trail right leads 0.2 mile up a steep and brushy route to often overlooked Lake Malachite (elev. 4089 ft), set in a big cirque. Continuing on the main path, reach Copper Lake (elev. 3961 ft) in 0.25 mile, just after crossing its outlet creek above a set of falls.

Call it quits at the grassy outlet, where you can sit and stare across sparkling waters fed by snowmelt cascades, or keep exploring. The trail hugs the lake's rugged eastern shore, revealing fine rocky overlooks among groves of ancient trees. At 5 miles, after passing through heather meadows, reach the next aquatic gem, Little Heart Lake (elev. 4204 ft). Access to this body of water, often littered with avalanche debris, is at the campsites near the outlet stream.

To get to Big Heart Lake, the most beautiful yet of the West Fork Foss lakes, keep following the trail, heading about 700 feet up a steep ridge and then dropping 350 feet off of it. Enjoy window views north of Trout Lake in the valley below and Glacier Peak hovering in the horizon beyond. Big Heart Lake at 6.5 miles (elev. 4545 ft) is set against a backdrop of rocky ridges and snowcapped spires.

The large logjam near its outlet stream cascading into the valley below makes for an ideal spot for sunning, snacking, feet-soaking, and savoring all of this beauty. Rest up. It's a rough journey back, too.