Who said "War is hell"? Hell, if the Pig War never broke out we wouldn't have been left with the longest stretch of public beach in the San Juan Islands and some great hiking trails to boot. Once the site of an American military encampment, San Juan Island National Historical Park's American Camp offers plenty of natural splendors and historical relics. From Mount Finlayson, marvel at an undeveloped coastline spread out below you. Stare across the Strait of Juan de Fuca at a backdrop of snowy Olympic Mountain summits. Watch for eagles, plovers, sandpipers, and hawks. Enjoy one of the most spectacular settings in all of the San Juans.

Established as a national historical park to commemorate the Pig War-a confrontation between the United States and Britain over possession of the Oregon Country in which the only casualty was a Hudson's Bay Company hog-the 1750-acre park is divided into two sections, the American and English camps. Along with its historical importance, the park protects some important habitat, including at Mount Finlayson, one of the few surviving native grasslands along the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

From the Jakles Lagoon trailhead, head east on the wide Mount Finlayson Trail. Paralleling Cattle Point Road, the trail gradually climbs, cutting a swath across golden grasslands lined by a forested edge of wind-blasted, contorted firs. Maritime views grow with each step. At 0.3 mile ignore a trail to the left. Pass through a clump of trees and then begin to climb, cresting the long ridge of Mount Finlayson, which was named for one of the founders of Victoria, British Columbia. The provincial capital can easily be seen from along the trail.

Hike along the windswept ridge, mouth agape at the astonishing views. Stare across the Strait of Juan de Fuca to the Olympic Mountains and down Puget Sound to the bluffs of Whidbey Island. Scan the choppy waters for whales, the skies for eagles.

At 1.3 miles a trail leads left, near a group of large firs-this is your return route. But first continue straight for another 0.1 mile, reaching one of Finlayson's summits (elev. 285 ft) to take in a spectacular view of Cattle Point.

Head back down to take up the loop again, turning right and dropping steeply in a cool ravine shaded by big firs and cedars to reach a trail junction at Third Lagoon after 0.25 mile. Turn left and follow this trail, an old woods road, 1.75 miles back to the trailhead. Be sure to take the side trail to Jakles Lagoon for a nice view of Mount Constitution and Turtleback Mountain across Griffin Bay. Not a bad spoil of war all this natural beauty.