This was a most interesting day for our hike. There were high clouds in the morning with good visibility, but poor lighting. There was snow on the trail, and our outing became an unexpected snow hike that was most enjoyable. The snow was soft, wet, and provided good traction. The sun broke through in the afternoon and improved the lighting and the fall colors. There were still some wildflowers blooming by the creeks and some blueberries on the bushes. We encountered about ten hikers on the trail. The views of Baker, Shuksan, and Table Mountain are stunning. We also could see Mount Rainier. It was a great hike, especially for this time of year.

The weather was perfect. Blue, blue skies and a very gentle breeze. The hike starts at Artist Point, on the Chain Lakes Trail. The views start at the trailhead and never stops. Fall colors are just peaking. A few snow patches to cross, but no problem. A member of our group saw a herd of goats (about a dozen) at the lake. We hiked to Camp Kiser where we had our lunch before returning. We thought this was going to be a quick hike and we would do Chain Lakes on our return, but the beauty of the scenery kept our pace to about a mile/hr so we ran out of time.

Backdoor Tatoosh Buttes, via BC Pasayten R. Sept. 29-Oct. 3. 2010
 
I visited Tatoosh 11 years ago and was not thrilled with the miles of horse-pounded tread in the Pasayten River valley. But the spectacular nature of the destination remained in my memory. So with a bit of research I schemed this route, allowing a single day approach, some travel on abandoned historical trails, and a bit of heedless illegal entry. It had been on my list for a couple of years, but it seemed perfect for the weather window we received.
 
My commute to the TH just east of Manning took 3.25 hours (no wait at border). I suppose it is fitting that one has to poke around to find the unmarked trail heading south to the Parson Smith tree (removed years ago and reportedly on display at Early Winters) site. I immediately began to appreciate the scope of the fire that ravaged the area (watched from Jerry Lakes in 2006). Not much green left for squares of miles. The 2 miles to the border are entirely in burned over forest. The trail is crude but mostly logged out. I passed the 6m border swath and obelisk #85 without ceremony and continued onward to my wilderness date with Tatoosh. I will admit to having a fugitive-like scare when hearing a Border Patrol helicopter within 15 minutes of re-entering my country. I was in the open, no forest cover left. But it was not for me and sped east on the border line. Relief!
 
This US section (#461) has been tagged with red tape and remains quite level for the 2 miles to the former bridge site, connecting with the border trail #533. The bridge is a charred memory. I crossed near the former cabin site ("Pasayten cabin", built by FS in 1930s) where the Pasayten is much shallower. No sign of the cabin but think I found the old privy. At about .5 mile Bodhran, ever steadfast, and I picked up the faint track heading up Ptarmigan Ridge.
 
I want to say that I have traveled both burned-over trails, and long-forgotten trails, but not in combination; consider me now educated. Things were fine up to 4700’; I could discern the track with little difficulty. But from there to 5500’ it became a ghost of a trail in a jungle of downed timber, scrub trees, & annual growth. Really, it was an imaginary friend more than anything. When I found that friend I clung to him desperately, because as marginal as that trail was, it much better than clamoring fecklessly through, as it will henceforth be called, The Carbon Forest. I will add here that the trail represented on USGS is only a rough approximation.
 
On a lighter note, fireweed has ripened and the seed fuzz was ready to fly; it was fortuitous that sweaty hiker-guy was passing through to foster propagation; I looked like a chicken-plucker for half the climb.
 
Conditions improved on the upper section of the ridge, as well as my ability to detect “trail” versus “not trail”. So after 9 hours of toil, Bodhran & I arrived at expansive golden grassy meadows, with a feast of Pasayten peaks all around. The spring from my prior visit was dry, but I found a better one another mile or so further at the 7000’ level. It had a rocky bottom, about 4 inches deep, and good year-round (saw caddis fly larvae) flow. No need for filtering. We had 4 nights to enjoy Tatoosh and commenced that project not long after unpacking.
 
Nights were spent staring upward into the cosmos and days wandering the Buttes, Tamarack Ridge, and Ptarmigan Peak (12th entry for the year). I also checked out tarn 7064’ north of Tamarack R. It was shallow, but picturesque with alpine larch in their prime. It was also a good chance for a sorely needed cleansing plunge. The highs were consistently around 63, and lows ranging from 28-40f. There were fabulous camps north of Ptarmigan Peak at the headwaters of Tamarack creek (Larch groves & reliable water).
 
 On the second night I was awakened at twilight by coyotes nearby, of course Bodhran was already out of his sleeping bag sitting at my side, sniffing intently. They were within 50m, barking, yelping, woofing, & howling, both north and south of our bivy. They eventually consolidated downwind, and then dispersed. I think they were calling Bodhran a wuss for eating fancy food, & needing a bag to stay warm. He seemed to get over it by breakfast.
 
Stratus started blowing in at daybreak on Sunday, but I had already feasted at the all-you-can-eat buffet of Quiet, mulled the map connecting the Wilderness dots, and contemplated my place in this N. Cascade sea of mountains- Eight-thousand foot breakers of tawny grass.
 
It was time to pack and go, back into the dreaded Carbon Forest. But on the return I was stronger, lighter, and more disciplined at maintaining the track; it went better, only 7 hours to the truck.
 
The whole heedless border thing really took a back seat to the toil and route-finding effort. I guess that is fitting; it really should be about the landscape, not arbitrary (49th parallel) boundaries. Trip stats: 13 miles & 3900’ gain.

The Forest Service is closing Table Mountain and Chain Lakes/Ptarmigan Ridge trails Sept. 13-14 for maintenance. Work on the upper Table Mountain trail’s southern steep cliffs will dislodge boulders and rocks, endangering hikers on the lower switchbacks and on the Chain Lakes/Ptarmigan Ridge trails. The trailhead is located at Artist Point parking lot at the end of Mt. Baker Highway, Scenic Route 542.

Call Mt. Baker Ranger District for updated information on trails or roads at 360-856-5700 or go to alerts and conditions on http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/.