Skyline Divide
Last modified
Aug 31, 2010 01:23 PM
With miles of flower- saturated meadows along a rolling lofty ridge radiating from the big volcano itself, Skyline Divide is one of Baker's best offerings to the hiking community. While the views are supreme-from the snowy peaks of British Columbia to the salty waters of Puget Sound-you'll struggle keeping your eyes off of what the area's first peoples called Koma Kulshan, "the Great White One." A popular place on a summer weekend, Skyline provides enough nooks and crannies to spread out. And while this hike is 4.5 miles long, feel free to quit anytime after 2 miles-there's no shortage of views along the way.
Without delay, begin climbing in a beautiful stand of mature silver fir. The trail is wide and firm; many a boot has walked this way. As you toil up and up, steeply at times, let the anticipation of alpine rapture carry you to the ridge crest. Approaching timberline, the trail passes into the Mount Baker Wilderness. At 2 miles clutch your heart and prepare for visual attack as the trail emerges onto a grassy knoll (elev. 5900 ft), unfurling a backdrop of the Great White One, surrounded by some pretty darn nice ones. Roam the knoll. Look out to Shuksan, Ruth, Table, Goat, Winchester, and of course, Koma Kulshan. Be sure to smell the flowers too. Lupine, harebell, bistort, valerian, daisy, and aster make bountiful bouquets beside your boots. But it gets better, so carry on. Drop a little into a small saddle, a little up and down, and then sidehill around the next knoll, coming to a flat where Baker poses ever so majestically for your memory card to capture. Climb the 6215-foot knoll or continue on the ridge. With Baker now breathing upon you and bearing a slight resemblance to Rainier from this angle, come to an unmarked junction at 3.5 miles in a small saddle (elev. 6000 ft). The trail left continues for 1 mile, dropping a couple hundred feet into a wild peaceful basin. The trail right continues on a rougher route along the divide, climbing higher. Over ledge and through krummholz and heather, work your way up to yet another knoll, number six if you're keeping track, and call it quits upon this 6563-foot gem. Beyond to Chowder Ridge is strictly for climbers and goats. Look at all those mountains! The Cheam Range, Golden Ears, and McGuire in Canada, the High Divide and company in front of them. East is Yellow Aster Butte, Shuksan, and a slew of craggy goliaths. The Black Buttes and Twin Sisters are to the south, and the Olympics and San Juan Islands lie to the west. Simply amazing! Recent Trip Reports
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Skyline Divide
— Aug 25, 2010
— Sydney Kaplan
Day hike
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
Issues:
Bugs
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It's been a number of years since I last hiked Skyline Divide. largely because the road there was closed for...
It's been a number of years since I last hiked Skyline Divide. largely because the road there was closed for some time. I'm glad I returned to it yesterday as it was the most spectacular hike I've taken this year. It's a long drive there and the last eight miles of the 13 mile road are particularly potholed and bumpy. But it is well worth the drive. We were lucky to have taken the opportunity to hike on the last day this week of good weather. Three weeks earlier we had climbed the 4.5 miles up from the Mr. Baker Highway to Excelsior Pass and by the time we reached it Mt. Baker was completely covered by clouds. Yesterday, the view was perfect. When we broke out of the forest onto the Divide, the views were amazing. We wandered along the trail up and down and climbed a steep peaklet that took us to about 6500 feet elevation, where we had our lunch. Then we returned back to the junction where the trail up from the road reaches the divide, but this time took the other direction (to the left). This turned out to be the most wonderful part of the whole hike for me. I had neglected to explore this eastern section of the Divide, and I'm glad I finally did so. First of all, the crowds disappear, and you suddenly find yourself in complete solitude in meadows filled with more flowers than I saw on the usual route. The lupine were particularly abundant. Moreover, the views of Shuksan and Baker are consistently in front of you the whole way. We kept thinking the trail would end, but it wandered along the ridge for about a half a mile until it reached an obvious end at a precipice. We returned to the junction and then made a quick descent to the car--what a great day!
Day hike
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
Issues:
Bugs | No water source
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My friend J and I, plus the Wonder Pup, headed up to Skyline Divide on this beautiful Monday. We...
My friend J and I, plus the Wonder Pup, headed up to Skyline Divide on this beautiful Monday. We were car #3, and we only saw maybe ten groups the whole day. In fact, there were a couple of spots along the ridge where we couldn't see anyone for miles.
The trail is in great shape. And just when you think you're *done* with steepness (it's not that bad, really), you surface into meadows of wildflowers. Washington Husky fans, delight...purple and white everywhere, with gold accents! Once you pass the Mt. Baker Wilderness sign, you're just a few feet away from cresting the ridge. Be prepared, as Mt. Baker will smack you in the face. We turned right, and followed the crest in the direction of Chowder Ridge. The trail guide says there are six knolls, and we made it to the fourth before time sent us back. Most of the folks we met stayed within the area of the first knoll or two, and believe me, if you want views, you'll get plenty from there. The trail junctions were clear; the one that could be difficult at 3.5 miles is well marked with cairns. For the basin, take the well-used trail to the left, and for more ridge, scramble up the scree to the right. The trail will become obvious at the top of the slope. Don't expect to make great time as you walk along the ridge. This is a place to exercise the camera, and just be grateful for such a beautiful place. Road Notes: While the road is only 12.4 miles long, expect to spend 35-45 minutes driving, based on your car. It is a bit rough at the beginning, then smoother for awhile. You'll pass a couple of privies (better to use these than to wait and endure the upper part of the road), and a bridge, a little less than halfway up. After this, expect medium-large potholes, rough road, and much slower going. I was glad for my 4Runner, but it can be done with a lower-clearance vehicle with good suspension...just expect to take longer. Bug Notes: Maybe I'm just tasty, but I used 33% DEET, and wanted 40%; I re-sprayed three or four times. Most of the bugs were black flies. Just bring the spray and enjoy. Water Notes: There is only one tiny stream left on the trail, and a few small dog-chewed snow patches along the ridge (don't plan on these for much longer). We were on the trail 6.5 hours, and I went through nearly 4 liters. In fact, the last available water is in Marblemount, unless you filter from the river. Camera Notes: Make sure your battery is charged and your card has lots of room :-) Day hike
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
Issues:
Bugs
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My fellow trudgers and I headed up the Skyline Divide trail on Friday morning. Many others (with their dogs...
My fellow trudgers and I headed up the Skyline Divide trail on Friday morning. Many others (with their dogs and even “pack goats”) had the same idea. The road to the trailhead definitely has its rough spots (big potholes, etc.) but our trusty Toyota Corolla and its patient, skilled driver handled it just fine.
The trail is steep in places but also has a few level stretches to catch one’s breath. It was a warm, clear day – a beauty for hiking – but we could have done without the swarms of hateful black flies. These despicable creatures seem to delight in thumbing their noses at any amount of insect repellent you put on. Fortunately, once we were on the ridge there was a nice breeze, which kept the flies at bay (sort of) while we ate lunch and basked in the truly awesome scenery. The meadows are currently full of lupine, sitka valerian, and mountain bistort and the air is heavy with their sweet scent. The heathers are just starting to bloom. This is one of the most glorious hiking destinations in the North Cascades! The views are astounding and worth all the sweat and fly swatting on the way up. (If you want to avoid some of the flies, get a very early start.) Day hike
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
Issues:
Mudholes | Bugs
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A spectacular hike that, when you break out onto the Divide, makes you want to sing like Julie Andrews: "The...
A spectacular hike that, when you break out onto the Divide, makes you want to sing like Julie Andrews: "The hills are alive!" This hike is eye-candy and once you come out on the Divide, the views only get better and better.
Only half a dozen cars were at the trailhead when we started at 10:30 am and we saw only 4 other parties on the trail all day. The trail starts with a moderate calf-stretching ascent through sun-dappled forest, climbing 800 ft in the first half hour. Then it eases up for the next 1500 ft and suddenly you're at Skyline Divide, where your eyes can feast on expansive views of Mt. Shuksan and Baker and the rest of the North Cascade range. Meadows flush with pink heather light up the valley below. We climbed the steep 6215-ft knoll east of the trail and descended the much gentler back side along a well-worn boot path, to fields of purple lupine, bright yellow stonecrop, orange-red paintbrush, white and pink heather. A great lunch spot. Rejoining the trail, we continued on to the fork at 3.5 miles (5900 ft) and took the high road (follow the large cairns) up to the high point of 6563 ft, then followed the undulating trail to the 6300-ft saddle near the base of Chowder Ridge, for glorious views of Mt. Baker, Shuksan, and the lush green valley below. At the saddle, pedicularis, white paintbrush, phlox, buttercups, stonecrop, red paintbrush, and harebells were out in abundance. The biting flies were a bit pesky at first, until Misnomer pulled out her magic bug dope--a citrus-eucalyptus spray--and they magically all disappeared (no kidding!). I'm buying a gallon of that stuff when I get home. A late afternoon thunderstorm started hailing on us just after we descended the saddle. A bright flash, followed by the loudest thunderclap I have ever heard, revealed a lightning strike about 0.5 mile away, with two trees temporarily on fire. There is only one snow patch to navigate, and that is on the trail just below the 6215-ft knoll. The snow is packed but starting to feel mushy. STATS: Distance: 10 miles round-trip to saddle Elevation gain (to saddle): 2163 ft Grade: easy to moderate Map: Green Trails Mt. Baker 13 Bugs: many biting flies, a few mosquitoes Snow: one patch you can avoid by climbing up the knoll
Skyline Divide
— Jul 30, 2010
— outdoor girl
Day hike
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
Issues:
No water source
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Skyline divide is gorgeous, wildflowers are just starting to bloom, trail was in great condition, the road to trailhead is...
Skyline divide is gorgeous, wildflowers are just starting to bloom, trail was in great condition, the road to trailhead is fair, lots of dust if you pass another vehicle. Bugs are out and hungry!
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Driving Directions
From Bellingham follow the Mount Baker Highway (State Route 542) east for 34 miles to the Glacier Public Service Center. Continue east another 0.8 mile, turning right onto Forest Road 39 (Glacier Creek Road). Then immediately turn left onto FR 37 (signed "Skyline Trail 12"), following this rough, at times gravel road 12.8 miles to its terminus and the trailhead (elev. 4300 ft). Privy available.
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