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Copyright © Craig Romano/The Mountaineers Books Skyline Divide
With miles of flower- saturated meadows along a rolling lofty ridge radiating from the big volcano itself, Skyline Divide is one of Baker's best offerings to the hiking community. While the views are supreme-from the snowy peaks of British Columbia to the salty waters of Puget Sound-you'll struggle keeping your eyes off of what the area's first peoples called Koma Kulshan, "the Great White One." A popular place on a summer weekend, Skyline provides enough nooks and crannies to spread out. And while this hike is 4.5 miles long, feel free to quit anytime after 2 miles-there's no shortage of views along the way.
Without delay, begin climbing in a beautiful stand of mature silver fir. The trail is wide and firm; many a boot has walked this way. As you toil up and up, steeply at times, let the anticipation of alpine rapture carry you to the ridge crest. Approaching timberline, the trail passes into the Mount Baker Wilderness. At 2 miles clutch your heart and prepare for visual attack as the trail emerges onto a grassy knoll (elev. 5900 ft), unfurling a backdrop of the Great White One, surrounded by some pretty darn nice ones. Roam the knoll. Look out to Shuksan, Ruth, Table, Goat, Winchester, and of course, Koma Kulshan. Be sure to smell the flowers too. Lupine, harebell, bistort, valerian, daisy, and aster make bountiful bouquets beside your boots. But it gets better, so carry on. Drop a little into a small saddle, a little up and down, and then sidehill around the next knoll, coming to a flat where Baker poses ever so majestically for your memory card to capture. Climb the 6215-foot knoll or continue on the ridge. With Baker now breathing upon you and bearing a slight resemblance to Rainier from this angle, come to an unmarked junction at 3.5 miles in a small saddle (elev. 6000 ft). The trail left continues for 1 mile, dropping a couple hundred feet into a wild peaceful basin. The trail right continues on a rougher route along the divide, climbing higher. Over ledge and through krummholz and heather, work your way up to yet another knoll, number six if you're keeping track, and call it quits upon this 6563-foot gem. Beyond to Chowder Ridge is strictly for climbers and goats. Look at all those mountains! The Cheam Range, Golden Ears, and McGuire in Canada, the High Divide and company in front of them. East is Yellow Aster Butte, Shuksan, and a slew of craggy goliaths. The Black Buttes and Twin Sisters are to the south, and the Olympics and San Juan Islands lie to the west. Simply amazing!
Driving Directions:
From Bellingham follow the Mount Baker Highway (State Route 542) east for 34 miles to the Glacier Public Service Center. Continue east another 0.8 mile, turning right onto Forest Road 39 (Glacier Creek Road). Then immediately turn left onto FR 37 (signed "Skyline Trail 12"), following this rough, at times gravel road 12.8 miles to its terminus and the trailhead (elev. 4300 ft). Privy available. Recent Trip Reports
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Day hike
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Fall foliage
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No water source
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The trail climbs 1600 feet in 2 miles to the grassy ridge top of Skyline Divide with a view of Mt Ba...
The trail climbs 1600 feet in 2 miles to the grassy ridge top of Skyline Divide with a view of Mt Baker in the distance. We first explored the ridge by turning left off the main trail. The grasses were golden with views of Shuksan, Ruth, Table, Goat, and Winchester. We returned to the main trail and walked up and down for 1.5 miles to a saddle at 6000 ft with views of Mt Baker getting better with each step. At the saddle the trail right continues along Skyline Divide to a saddle at the base of Chowder Ridge. Because our turnaround time was near, we hiked left toward Deadhorse Basin until our turnaround time came. We met a few other hikers who were enjoying the beautiful day and views. The main fall color was in the golden grasses as there were very few berry bushes.
Overnight
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Fall foliage
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No water source
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The worst part of this trail is enduring the long bumpy gravel road (12.5 miles)to the trail head. ...
The worst part of this trail is enduring the long bumpy gravel road (12.5 miles)to the trail head. No trail issues except there is no water source, so bring plenty of water. The views are stunning after 1.8 miles into the trail. At about the 3 mile mark, the trail splits off....you can take the high route or the low route. This intersection is marked by a large cairn.....I chose the high route. Round trip is about 9 miles. This is a very popular trail and it would be best to visit during the middle of the week if you have the opportunity.
Day hike
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Fall foliage
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Day Three - Hmm, September had been so nice - yes, awoke to more clouds. Twelve miles of dirt road ...
Day Three - Hmm, September had been so nice - yes, awoke to more clouds. Twelve miles of dirt road with its fair share of washboard, potholes and waves. Although none of that deterred hikers - plenty of cars in the Skyline Divide parking area (and even more when we finished the hike). But it was cloudless at the parking area. September sunshine prevailed. Unlike the other two hikes, this one begins climbing and generally continues to climb right off the bat. Most of the way through forest but with meadow openings as you approach the clear ridge line. The last switchback aims right at Mt Baker. But Shuksan does not disappoint as one completes that last switchback to the ridge. Views in every direction. From the ridge line one can meander the ridge up and down bumps and saddles for splendid walking. Fall color was evident along the ridge walk and in the small meadow areas along the last few switchbacks. Wandered a piece up the ridge, down the ridge, up the ridge, (you get the point) and enjoyed the view. Although it was again marred by the smokey haze that plagued the other two hikes. Sat and ate lunch and imagined the view without the haze.
Eventually, headed on down, back to our accommodations, a quick shower and drive back to Seattle. A bed and shower are a nice way to "camp." A good and tiring three day weekend. Overnight
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Fall foliage
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3 of us started off in fog and clouds with rain threatening and we were initially a bit disappointed...
3 of us started off in fog and clouds with rain threatening and we were initially a bit disappointed, having hoped for clear views and blue skies, but by the time we were finished with a two day back pack trip, we were really happy that we had seen Mt. Baker under these conditions. We made a right turn at the junction where we could have gone down to Chowder basin and headed out to the ridge. What a fantastic ridge line walk. With the clouds heavy in the valley all we could see was the trail on the ridge line, the clouds were literally 10-15 feet below us. It was magical, kind of like walking in the sky. When we got to the saddle we opted to set up our tents since we found a couple of nice flat spots and weren't' sure what was above, and there was a snow field accessible for water and great views of Mt. Baker, now intermittently above the fog. However after setting up tents we continued up to the 6500 foot ridge above and walked as far as we could toward Baker and wished we had taken the risk and found a campsite up top. Stayed up top for sunset (Magenta due to all of the smoke in the air from the Eastern Washington wildfires) and returned before sunrise in the morning to eat our breakfasts while watching the sunrise. We will return next year hoping for blue sky views, but this foggy autumn backpack was one of my favorite hikes ever. Saw WTA work parties both going in and coming out, big hoorah and thank you to those volunteers!
Day hike
Features:
Fall foliage | Ripe berries
Issues:
No water source
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On the drive up to the trailhead, we passed through a thick cloud layer between 2500' and 3900'. Fr...
On the drive up to the trailhead, we passed through a thick cloud layer between 2500' and 3900'. From the trailhead at 4350', we started up the steep but excellent trail, breaking into the open 2 miles later at 5900'.
A side trail to the left led to views to the north and east, where the solid cloud layer below dominated the scenery. Back at the junction, Mt. Baker loomed large, with no clouds obscuring it. Mt. Shuksan was still washed out in the morning light, but that would improve. From the junction, the trail south encounters "a little up and down" according to the Hiking Guide. They may be little, but the ups and downs are quite steep. We bypassed the obvious path up to Point 6215, into an area of spectacular views, including blueberries in their fall colors. I continued on solo, taking the rough uphill path at the trail junction, and following it to a treed knoll overlooking a steep drop-off to the northwest. I didn't have time to get to Point 6563, so this became my turnaround point. I rejoined my friend at the 5900' junction for a last look at the views before our return to the trailhead. The solid cloud layer was still between 3900' and 2500' as we drove back out to the highway. |
![]() View Heading Down the Divide. Photo by halffast.
2010, 2011, 2012
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