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Truman Trail-Pumice Plains

 

Featured In: Day Hiking: South Cascades, by Dan A. Nelson and Alan L. Bauer.
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The eruption of Mount St. Helens in 1980 is held up as an example of the destructive power of nature, yet today, the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument is the perfect classroom in which to learn about nature's strong ability to recover and rebuild.
It's been nearly three decades, after all, and this broad valley proves that life does return. This area was inundated with up to 600 feet of mud from the initial landslide, but today birds and animals fill the area. Elk roam the basin, browsing on the lush plant life around the small pothole lakes and ponds. During one visit, we identified the burrow of a snowshoe hare on the gentle western slope at the base of Windy Ridge, and we heard the yipping cries of a family of coyotes as we started down the trail earlier that morning. The plain above Spirit Lake rang with the relentless "ribbet" of frogs seeking mates along the wetland shores, and the scraggly bushes nearby rustled as flycatchers and flickers flew from branch to branch.

Descending the old logging road from the Windy Ridge trailhead leads you directly into the blast zone. This area is a stark reminder of the volcano's power, but also of the recuperative power of nature.

At about 2 miles the road ends and becomes instead a single-track trail leading north onto the sloping field of scoured rock and ash directly in front of Mount St. Helens' crater breach.

From here, you continue to descend along the Truman Trail into a marvelous world of eroded mud and ash that resembles the slick-rock country of Utah more than the southern Cascades. After 2 miles or so of wandering north along the trail that pierces the water-beaten bare rock and mud, you'll find yourself deep into the Pumice Plains near the southern shore of Spirit Lake. Rest here above the shores of the lake and enjoy the views before returning the way you came.
Driving Directions:

From Randle, drive south on Forest Road 25 to its junction with FR 99 (just past Iron Creek Falls). Turn right (west) onto FR 99 and drive to the road-end viewpoint and Windy Ridge trailhead.

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Recent Trip Reports

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There are 15 trip reports for this hike. See all trip reports for this hike.
Loowit Trail, Truman Trail-Pumice Plains, Windy Ridge Trail — Aug 21, 2011 — rikanderson
Day hike
Features: Wildflowers blooming
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Entered from Windy Ridge, and completed circuit of the mountain. Complete trip report is posted on http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=742347&confirm_post=12, to...
Entered from Windy Ridge, and completed circuit of the mountain. Complete trip report is posted on http://www.summitpost.org/v[…]742347&confirm_post=12, to which pictures will be added. This WTA report will focus on conditions encountered.

Wildflowers are going wild at the top of Ape Canyon near the waterfall north of Pumice Butte! Get water there, as the streams between there and June Lake are muddy.

June Lake (where we camped night 1) waterfalls are beautiful.

My 20-year old Green Trails shows trail 244 going from June Lake to Swift Creek, but a sign at the lake identifies this as a winter ski route 244D, and no summer route across the lava here is evident -- had to hike the steep trail back to Loowit Trail above June Lake. I'm not sure if newer maps make this clear.

Hike from June Lake to South Toutle is the longest and toughest of the three sections of Loowit if you choose to do it in three days. The lava flows west of the crossing of Ptarmigan Trail (summer climbing route) are marked with posts, pipes, and cairns, but still hard to follow in places. Contrary to the persistent USFS trail report, there is only one small patch of snow to be crossed, between the lava flows and Butte Camp Trail. It is a bit steep, but several folks have avoided the danger by going 100 feet lower in the shallow gully. The main thing to note on this south and west side of the mountain is that the trail is longer than topos and guides show, as there is a mile+ detour down the Blue Lake Wash that loses around 400+ feet of elevation which must be regained.

Crossing the South Fork of the Toutle can be a challenge, both crossing the creek itself and the scramble up the north side of the gorge. We camped in the meadows to the north, which necessitated downclimbing and reclimbing this unpleasant cliff in the morning. The advantage of camping here vs. the Toutle Trail camp is it gets the crossing done the day before the climb back up to 4400 feet. Some of the large boulders embedded in mud are solid, but a few are not! Go one at a time, and stay clear of the area below.

Crossing the north side of the mountain to Windy Ridge is the Great Volcano Adventure. First of all, I understand WTA did a lot of work on this section last year. I wondered if our late spring might have wrought some damage, but found the trail to be in excellent condition. THANKS!

We saw the elk (120-150 of 'em?) traveling east across and then north down Studebaker Ridge. It felt like being on a safari! There was plenty of good water coming down the middle tributary of Studebaker Creek (but obviously needs filtering due to abundant wildlife!). The creek coming down from Loowit Falls (Loowit Creek? or upper North Fork of Toutle?) is muddy, and was fairly challenging to cross a day and a half after a somewhat rainy night. And it's muddy. The next really good water is the spring east of Loowit Falls below the Forsyth Glacier ... a veritable Eden with all the monkey flowers and willows, and a great place for a break in the hike! However, there was a lot more water flowing down the north side of the mountain than one might expect in the last half of August, and all of it could be made drinkable in a pinch.

Anyone who thinks they know St.Helens by having climbed up the south side is missing the true experience of this mountain...do the hike around to really get to know her!
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Truman Trail-Pumice Plains — Aug 21, 2011 — Weluv2hike.
Day hike
Features: Wildflowers blooming
Issues: Overgrown
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The mount Saint helens northeastern area is...a sight for the eyes. This hike too was unbeatable! The landscape...wow! This is...
The mount Saint helens northeastern area is...a sight for the eyes. This hike too was unbeatable! The landscape...wow! This is another great hike, really enjoyed this too.Lots of flowers and while hiking, almost the entire time you get to fill the senses. Also had this trail all to ourselves.
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Loowit Trail, Truman Trail-Pumice Plains — Aug 07, 2011 — Sanderee
Day hike
Features: Wildflowers blooming
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This was a repeat hike for me, this time coming in from the North via Randal, FS road 25 and...
This was a repeat hike for me, this time coming in from the North via Randal, FS road 25 and 99 to Windy Ridge. Wear plenty of sunscreen and carry water, as there is little cover. Wildflowers are blooming in wonderful variety, and there are chipmunks, ground squirrels, a variety of birds, and even a frog near Loowit Falls. I started on the trail at 9 AM, and didn’t see anyone until 11 AM, and then it became a gregarious party of mountain bikers coming in from the Ape Canyon Trail and a van full of hikers from Canada. This is a highly recommended hike, and it’s worth carrying a tripod to get those photos with high apertures and depth-of-field. Go soon; the wildflowers are at their peak.
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Loowit Trail, Truman Trail-Pumice Plains — Aug 07, 2011 — Sanderee
Day hike
Features: Wildflowers blooming
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This was a repeat hike for me, this time coming in from the North via Randal, FS road 25 and...
This was a repeat hike for me, this time coming in from the North via Randal, FS road 25 and 99 to Windy Ridge. Wear plenty of sunscreen and carry water, as there is little cover. Wildflowers are blooming in wonderful variety, and there are chipmunks, ground squirrels, a variety of birds, and even a frog near Loowit Falls. I started on the trail at 9 AM, and didn’t see anyone until 11 AM, and then it became a gregarious party of mountain bikers coming in from the Ape Canyon Trail and a van full of hikers from Canada. This is a highly recommended hike, and it’s worth carrying a tripod to get those photos with high apertures and depth-of-field. Go soon; the wildflowers are at their peak.
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Truman Trail-Pumice Plains, Boundary Trail Traverse — Aug 01, 2010 — UniverseUnfolding
Day hike
Features: Wildflowers blooming
Issues: No water source
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It's hard to believe that Mt. St. Helens in July would offer much more to a hiker than hot breezes...
It's hard to believe that Mt. St. Helens in July would offer much more to a hiker than hot breezes and grit, but we've hiked the Boundary Trail and Truman trails this time of year every year because of the incredible abundance of wildflowers. Literally the entire pumice plain turns purple. We're always so surprised that we never see anyone down there this time of year and it finally dawned on us that it may be because you can't see the flowers from up at the observatories - there are so many that the color just sort of blends in. I would seriously say that the wildflowers along this trail rival those at Rainier - the atmosphere is a little different (no shade!) but they are definitely worth the walk. Be sure to leave very early in the morning and you'll be back out by the time it gets really hot - and then you'll have your chance to hang with the elk, too. Bonus: no one parks at Johnston Ridge at 7am. There are no reliable water sources on this hike so be sure to bring enough water.
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Windy Pass.jpg
Plains of Abraham from Windy Pass. Photo by Riri.
Location
Truman (#207)
South Cascades -- Mt. St. Helens
USFS Mount Adams Ranger District
Statistics
Roundtrip 10.0 miles
Elevation Gain 200 ft
Highest Point 4000 ft
Features
Lakes
Mountain views
Wildlife
User info
Northwest Forest Pass required
Guidebooks & Maps
South Cascades
Green Trails No. 364S Mount St. Helens NW
No. 332 Spirit Lake

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Note: the description and driving directions for this Mountaineers Books entry are copyrighted and can't be changed.

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Red Marker Truman Trail-Pumice Plains
46.24995 -122.13615
(46.2499, -122.1362) Open in new window
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