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Copyright © Craig Romano/The Mountaineers Books Winchester Mountain
England may have Winchester Cathedral, but here in Washington State we have Winchester Mountain, in the natural cathedral of the North Cascades. From the restored lookout perched atop this heavenly peak, praise boundless beauty beaming before you. Sparkling lakes, shining snowfields, and rows of mountain spires separated by deep emerald valleys-simply divine. And best of all, just a little physical sacrifice is required on this moderate hike.
Beauty begins immediately. The trail takes off from between the Twin Lakes, a deep blue, icy-cold pair of subalpine aquatic gems. Despite the area's rugged appearance, the heather-lined lakeshores are quite fragile and have been trampled by gold- and view-seekers alike. Treat these lakes like the precious jewels they are. Begin climbing through a "stand"of false hellebore, soon entering the Mount Baker Wilderness. Continue through stately hemlocks, and at about 0.25 mile come to a junction with the High Pass Trail. Bear left through blueberry patches, marmot playgrounds, and parklands carpeted in heather and garnished with anemones. Views grow. At about 1 mile come to a gully that harbors a dangerous snowfield well into summer. Cross with an ice ax or bypass it below if possible, otherwise return later in the season and go explore the lake basin instead. The trail then traverses a steep slope high above the west Twin Lake before wrapping around the mountain to commence a short switchback shuffle to the 6521-foot summit. Old glory is usually flying in front of the restored lookout perched on the peak. Built in 1935, the lookout was scheduled for demolition in the early 1980s until the Mount Baker Club saved and restored it. Now the elegant structure is a popular place to spend the night. Okay, enough about the lookout: how about those views? They're amazing! Look west to Baker and Yellow Aster Butte, north to Tomyhoi, Larrabee, American Border Peak, Canadian Border Peak, and into the snowy abyss known as British Columbia. East, pick out the Pickets among a prominent pack of North Cascades pinnacles. To the south Shuksan pokes its icy head up between the twin peaks of Goat Mountain. The Twin Lakes twinkle directly below.
Driving Directions:
From Bellingham follow the Mount Baker Highway (State Route 542) east for 34 miles to the Glacier Public Service Center. Continue east another 13 miles, turning left onto Forest Road 3065 (signed "Twin Lakes Road"; the turnoff is just beyond the Department of Transportation's Shuksan garage). Immediately bear left at an unmarked junction and continue on FR 3065 for 4.5 miles to the trailhead for Yellow Aster Butte. The road beyond this point is extremely rough, suitable only for four-wheel-drive vehicles. Either park here and walk the road, or continue driving 2.5 very rugged miles to the trailhead at Twin Lakes (elev. 5200 ft). Primitive camping and privy available. Recent Trip Reports
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Day hike
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Fall foliage
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Snow on trail
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Road to trailhead was clear and lower part of the trail was clear of snow but wet. At least half of...
Road to trailhead was clear and lower part of the trail was clear of snow but wet. At least half of the trail was covered with snow, the trail is packed down and clear but it can be slick! All and all still a good hike for the season, I just recommend poles for the snow.
Multi-night backpack
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The history of Winchester Mountain has always been closely tied to gold mining in what was then call...
The history of Winchester Mountain has always been closely tied to gold mining in what was then called the Mt. Baker Mining District. In fact, the mountain got its name from Jack Post who reportedly left his favorite rifle on the summit. Jack Post was the renowned sourdough who staked the initial claim to the Lone Jack Mine in 1897. The gold rush of the area took place through the 1920s, but the mine is mine still operates most years. This year, despite record gold prices, the mine remained closed due to the road failing to melt out, so the lakes basin was left to hunters and hikers at a time when ore trucks normally rumble through the locked gate.
The first recorded ascent of this mountain, later named Winchester, was accomplished by Henry Custer in 1858; he was the leader of a survey expedition to establish the Canada/US boundary along the 49th parallel. Despite all of the formidable footsteps that preceded us, Tina and I merely climbed a trail for 1.5 miles to get a little exterior painting work done on the 1935 structure before the serious snows of winter. We fortunately had a few days of sunshine and still air; the World Flag was lazy on the pole most of the time. Cleaning and repairs (like a hasp that was torn off the storm door) were also required. A chair had been damaged beyond repair and was removed. Nights featured stars and a waning gibbous rising orange like a dented pumpkin from the jagged east. Later the moonlight got bright-n-busy on new snow for great photography. Scouring the LO of all cooking utensils last visit seems to have been effective at discouraging slob-behavior and the consequent mouse issues. We were able to sleep soundly sans the rodent circus of years past. Our job each evening was to settle inside; we sipped wine and nibbled tidbits of home-jerked beef out of the wind. The light bent and slipped closer to climactic gold as the interior dimmed like a theater before the show. Soon, only snowy peaks glowed in the windows; featured actors in flattering light, delivering their ancient impressive performance. The kerosene lamp was lit at last-light. Brilliant orange in cross-hair panes was replaced by reflective glow from within. This simple act reversed the role of 72 glass panes from conduits to mirrors of light; the lookout palace transformed to funhouse. The first sunrise had been stolen away by a slate of stratus that slid in from the NW in the wee hours. That made our second morning all the sweeter. It started with a ptarmigan’s strangled call as it circled at the appointed hour before sunup, remarkably punctual in my experience. We awakened in fits having slept deeply through a lengthening night. I heard Tina stir and exhale a private “wow” while she gazed eastward from her soft cocoon of feathers. The windows glowed richly with dawn. We arose well before sunrise, anticipating the new day. It was quiet, nary a breeze stirred. Even the hiss of the propane stove seemed intrusive against the empty canvas of morning, but the blue flame provided us with mugs of warm water that accompanied us to the north meadow, near a large olivine boulder colored with bright lichen. We settled upon the soft snow on foam pads facing SE. This was a time to be away from the windowed confines of the lookout, exposed to the perilous silence & freshness of the mountains, where the earth fell away at one’s feet and the sky balanced on the icy tips of Cascadian summits. We had many minutes to contemplate such things while gazing at the ragged silhouettes of Ruth Mtn, The Pickets, Whatcom Peak, and Redoubt against brilliant orange. Color drained skyward, replaced by fast-pink announcements of sunrise on the summits of Kulshan, Shuksan, Larrabee, and Tomyhoi. Molten ridgeline firs marked the distant point at which the sun would emerge. Then it happened, at 7:32; the first sharpened rays reached our eyes, thus born into a new day. Eventually, water finished, we trundled off with our pads and mugs, seeking strawberry flavor pop tarts and a simmering pot of coffee. The final day was the best, making it difficult to leave such a high, bright place. We busied with stowing the flagpole, repainting the sign lettering, and securing the shutters. Tina packed the garbage, including a derelict guitar, and gamboled down the mountain, but not before we admired our freshly painted shutters, and said goodbye to a very special place. Day hike
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
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Disappointed that I could not hike the Enchantments with my friends this week because I injured my l...
Disappointed that I could not hike the Enchantments with my friends this week because I injured my leg hiking last week, I tried to find an easy hike with big views. Winchester Mountain appeased my mood booster prescription perfectly.
It was cloudy and gloomy the entire trip to Mt. Baker, but as soon as I reached 3,000 feet on the road to the trailhead, the sun broke through and the skies were clear. The conditions remained the same for both days of my adventure. The road is rough, but the last two miles absolutely require a high clearance vehicle. In spite of this, there were quite few people at Twin Lakes. Fortunately many of them were not hiking Winchester Mountain. The trailhead starts between two beautiful twin lakes. If you look at the top of the mountain between the two lakes, a flag pole is visible. The flagpole is next to the Lookout, which was my destination. The trail passes through lush alpine meadows filled with many varieties of flowers still blooming. The last portion of the trail has some steep sections, but it is not too difficult. There were no bugs! The views are amazing at the Lookout. There are major peaks in every direction. And there is no better viewpoint for Mt. Baker. I met Jack Kaleas at the Lookout. He is the Marathon Day Hiker featured in the July/Aug. issue of "Washington Trails." He is a great fellow. He is about to relocate to Wisconsin and was getting in as many hikes as possible before his departure. I'll do this hike again... Day hike
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
Issues:
Blowdowns | Snow on trail | Bugs | No water source
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i tried this hike for the first time last year with a friend. found the hike pretty easy. there was ...
i tried this hike for the first time last year with a friend. found the hike pretty easy. there was full cloud cover and we could not see the view at all. this year decided to do it again because of the ease and shortness. we made it all the way to the last switchback on the road before the snow prevented us from going any farther in the car. i was extremley surprised at the difference a clear sky makes! there were a few difficult spots due to snow fields, but all together as easy as i remembered. wish i had brought more gear to feel a little more safe but it is certainly do-able with none. can not describe how amazing the view is! will be returning for a multi-day trip very soon!
Multi-night backpack
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I've been hearing about mouse issues at the LO and have been itching to get up there to evict them b...
I've been hearing about mouse issues at the LO and have been itching to get up there to evict them before deep snows. In fact the last storm cycle had me wondering if it would be possible. Some warm rain and a spell of clear weather had me packing and cashing in a couple of days vacation. The crucial piece was catching enough of a freeze so Bodhran could walk on a crust of snow; I hate having to carry his pack. It was worrysome watching the inversion develop Tuesday evening, as temps at 5000' became 5 degrees warmer than 4200'. But hey, gotta give it a go!
The snow level on southern exposures was higher than anticipated. A burley truck preceded me on the road and it was backing down after hitting solid snow around 4900'. I took his word for it and parked; it was only 300' to the lakes basin, not worth putting on chains. The temp was about 45 at our sunrise start & no more than a foot of snow at Twin lakes. That quickly transitioned to 2 feet, but cold air flowing downward just on the surface was enough to set the snow for the dog to walk on. I carried snowshoes, but only needed them after traversing to the NW face at about 6200'; here the snow was drifted and deep. Gorgeous hike in! My tasks as Winchester janitor included a lot of cleaning- garbage, and mouse mess. Some damage; I discovered in addition to a brace being burned for firewood, a secondary wooden platform to stand on in lightning storms was burned as well. Also the fire extinguisher had been discharged since my Sept visit. Four mice were trapped out of the attic, their stinky nest removed, and the access hole stoppered. No other signs of rodent life during my stay. It was warm enough to paint on Wednesday. An inventory of books revealed that 5 had been "borrowed" in the past 6 weeks; it seems that authors like E. Abbey, Lao Tzu, C. Hitchens, and Childs inspire a larcenous fervor in visitors. A compliment? Otherwise things looked pretty good up there. Thursday was very blustery and clouds rolled in by the afternoon. I packed up the garbage, the emptied fire extinguisher, shuttered the place, and departed Friday. Mission accomplished. |
![]() Twin Lakes from Winchester Mountain. Photo by C P.
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