As so many others have said: this hike is a gem, and absolutely worth the challenge. Even doing just a portion of the Hoh River Trail, and staying at one of the earlier campsites, would be special. The rainforest feels peaceful, the leaves are just beginning to turn, water is plentiful (and often bright blue!), and of course the glacier is stunning.
I planned for a three-day trip, and initially intended to do a long first day in to Elk Lake, a day hike to Blue Glacier and back out to camp at Olympus Guard Station, and back to the trailhead on Day 3. But I got the campsites confused when registering for permits, and ended up reserving Lewis Meadows for Night 1 instead. It made Day 2 (Lewis Meadows - Blue Glacier - Olympus) pretty long, but honestly I think climbing up to Elk Lake after a full day of hiking would have been more challenging. Camping at Lewis Meadows on the first night let me leave some gear behind for the ascent, and do the climb with fresh legs.
In addition to the wasp nest marked with red tape, there may be others on the trail. I got stung around mile 2.5. Keep an eye out!
Within a mile before Olympus Guard Station, there are two memorable river crossings. The first is a large balanced log, and the other a fellow hiker described as a "jumble" of logs and branches. Both felt manageable, but on the way out after a night of rain, the water was significantly higher and faster. I'd be concerned about these crossings under rainier weather.
I found the infamous ladder to be less terrifying than I expected. If you, like me, see grace as an overrated virtue, consider the scoot method of descent: sit on each rung, and bump your way down. Not pretty but gets the job done. Note that following the ladder to the end will take you to about ten feet of steep, loose scree, and you'll have to scramble back up to the trail. Veering off to the left with the purple rope is a more direct route.
The hike from Lewis Meadows to Blue Glacier took me 5 hours. I opted for the lateral moraine, and was lucky to have the ridgeline viewpoint all to myself. Overall I was surprised at the amount of hikers out on late September weekdays, but the weather was great and the trail never felt crowded.
I found wild blueberries and the last of the thimbleberries up by Glacier Meadows. Other noteworthy sights included deer, elk, lightning, and the biggest Turkey Tail mushroom I'd ever seen! And a quick plug for Gathering Moss by Robin Kimmerer - highly recommended for a deeper appreciation of the mosses you will surely see all around.
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