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Trip Report

North Coast Route, Chilean Memorial — Tuesday, Mar. 23, 2021

Olympic Peninsula > Pacific Coast
Cedar Creek view

A two-day, backpacking trip March 23-24, 2021, beginning and ending at the Rialto Beach trailhead in Olympic National Park with an overnight stay at Cedar Creek, 9 miles to the north.

The tidal window began in the afternoon on both days and allowed for passage of the headlands between roughly noon and the 7 p.m. sunset. Use of a good map (Custom Correct, North Olympic Coast), a good time piece and tide tables are essential.

There is a good description of the coastal hikes in Erik Molvar's book, "Hiking Olympic National Park".

Past Hole in the Wall, a hiker must cross over slick algae and seaweed covered rocks that would make any slip dangerous. You must hike deliberately - considering each step.

Cedar Creek, about a six-hour hike from La Push, is about 4 miles north of the Chilean Memorial. Campsites are off the beach, offering both picturesque views as well as protection from the elements.

Travel on the trip was cold enough to require the use of a rain jacket and pants to keep warm. For the first time on the coast, we used Muckmaster rubber boots and enjoyed much better traction on the slimy coastal rocks than with traditional, hard sole hiking boots.

The brisk, early spring weather kept temperatures in the upper 40's in the daytime and the lower 40's at night. A weather system passed through overnight, with wind gusts up to 25 miles per hour and about a half inch of rain.

The Chilean Memorial concrete monument is resting on the beach after erosion from winter storms.

The tidal headland known as the Saddle continues to get more treacherous after more erosion. Bring heavy gloves for the ropes and consider zig-zagging down the north side to avoid a dropoff on the severely eroded former stairway. The traction is limited, especially when wet.

An obstacle not on the map is a slide between Coastie Head and Starbuch Mine. A series of boulders must be navigated on a tide higher than 3 or 4 feet.

You must also be aware that both Cedar Creek and Ellen Creek will be elevated after rain. Crossing on the return trip was knee-deep for both creeks. Trekking poles are highly recommended.

Wildlife sightings include more than a dozen eagles and various other marine birds.

Chilean Memorial on beach
The Saddle
Jagged and Carroll Island
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